I Cannot Believe This Bullsh#t

[TargeT]

Well what are your goals. Many people with all wheel drives do 12 second quarter miles without ever having to change the displacement of their engine.

state your goals and maybe we can help ya out.

more importantly, how much $$$$$$$$$$$ do you want to spend?


you might be able to turn the crank and use larger bearings, but if hte mechanic thinks not then he may be right ( a machine shop would have the final say there imo) so you spun a rod bearing ? who did your engine rebuild (you just had one right?), i'd be knocking ontheir door, that shouldn't have happend, maybe htey didnt prime your oil pump or something... not good

 

[4gsx63]

First of all, if your local mechanic did the rebuild and spun rod bearings, MAKE HIM PAY FOR IT! Second, if it is your only daily, dont worry about getting it stroked. Instead, go find another shop that work on DSM and have them do the work! Have them look at your car and ask for suggestions.

I got raped once when I first gotten into DSM world . I learned it the hard way and I don't want you to go through it again . So get away from the local shop that did your rebuild ASAP! Good luck!

 

[Illicit TSi]

To elaborate on the goals thing...How much HP do you want to make and how fast do you want to go?As well as the previously asked question... How much money do you want to spend?Those are the 3 things we need to know to better help you or its jsut going to be open suggestions from there as like my previous post.

 

[da kang3]

okay my goals for the car are to bea pretty decently fast street car, run 12's at the track, and the money part, i've already spent a hell of a lot more than what i wanted to. put it like this, all the money that i have put into gettin this thing to work, i could have been done with what i wanted to do to it by now. what do u all think about me just sendin my crank to buschur racing and havin them knife edge my crank? would they be able to do this if the spot where i spun the rod bearing has little indentations like if u drop a metal pan on concrete and u get those little dots and stuff. would they be able to do my crank if that has happened to it or not?

 

[Illicit TSi]

okay my goals for the car are to bea pretty decently fast street car, run 12's at the track, and the money part, i've already spent a hell of a lot more than what i wanted to. put it like this, all the money that i have put into gettin this thing to work, i could have been done with what i wanted to do to it by now. what do u all think about me just sendin my crank to buschur racing and havin them knife edge my crank? would they be able to do this if the spot where i spun the rod bearing has little indentations like if u drop a metal pan on concrete and u get those little dots and stuff. would they be able to do my crank if that has happened to it or not?

hmmm.. No I think he safest bet there would be get a new one.That one is pretty much Effed and if it gets turned and the slightest thing is out of whack you will be needing a new motor.Best bet is either get a 6 bolt or a new crank.dont worry about stroking it,though it wouldnt hurt if you plan on running higher levels of boost, worry about getting it working,correct thrust bearing sizes for the new crank unless you want crankwalk,and getting pistons and rods balanced for the new crank.Thats gonna be a project in itself.From there break it in forst then get a bigger turbo,walbro 255 lph fuel pump,bigger injectors,boost controller,either a safc or standalone fuel management(cheapest is safc-best bet is standalone IMO),3" down pipe & exhuast with a high flow cat.,FMIC,BOV,Cams,etc.Theres a lot involved in running 12's.All this time you have spent fixoing it you should have been modding it.. The way I did it when I didnt have the $ to mod it all at once,Something breaks-Replace it with Aftermarket/modification goodies.For example,I had a bad turbo so I got a bigger one.I blew my motor at the track when i first got my car and replaced pistons,rods,and cams with bigger pistons(also forged ),Stronger rods(necessary for high high levels of boost),cams for better performance,and ported and polished the head while it was off.Killed the stock clutch so I got a ACT 2600.Get my drift.. Some people disapprove of this method but it worked jsut fine for me.If it breaks it gets replaced with something better and stronger than stock.Just an I dea.

On another note,if you are going to stroke it,Might as well order some Bigger pistons to fit the bore you are creating,Bigger and stronger rods to suit the stroke(or length of travel it will be making),port and polish the head while its off,and get a bigger turbo.Just an idea.Not saying you have to but it would be wise so later on you dont have to.The less times the head comes off the better.So do everything internally all in one shot.I woudl invest in fuel system upgrades to to support the mods you want.Is the car All Stock now or do you have minor mods.. IF you have ANY mods please list them.

 

[da kang3]

my mods are just an apexi 3" turbo back exhaust w/high flow cat. and im thinkin of just knife edgin the crank now and orderin a new clutch and not do too much to the car for a little while so that i can pay off some of my bills and free up a lot more money. but knowin myself, the wait may not be too long. maybe not even a whole freakin week. ha. but does anyone know of places that i can get a knife edged crank for my 95 eclipse gsx 7 bolt, this would help me out a lot. and also a clutch kit. im torn between the sbr 3500 and the centerforce df clutch kits, need advice. thank u all for ur help with my problems, this really makes it a lot easier for me

 

[Illicit TSi]

Hmm.. I wouldnt edge knife it.. To be safe I would just get it replaced.Then you wont have to worry if it was done right or if it was good enough.My crank killing my motor is something I take very seriously.But if you REALLY think its do-able then go for it.However I think it might be more expensive than getting a new one or maybe around the same price.Just an idea..

I havent heard bad about centerforce and dont know about the other at all.. but Most people use ACT.. A ACT 2100 should be fine for now but if you want room to play and mod then go with a 2600.

 

[da kang3]

yea as far as the crank goes, thats what i was askin, where can i buy a new one that comes knife edged already? and about the clutches, i know about the act 2600 already, but the problems people are havin with it and their tranny is enough to turn me off on those

 

[apache211]

da kang3, f*ck these stupid cars..
focus on your MOS job, use the army to get your college done, go to PLDC, then BNCOC, then ETS, and depending on what MOS you were, you can get a nice contractor job making anywhere from 3000-12000$ a month like I am.
then you can buy a car that you don't have to mess with..

 

[da kang3]

thats pretty funny about the pldc and stuff. in my mos it doesnt matter cause our points are so high and then once u get those points it will take forever for u to get promoted. but im pretty sure im settlin on just gettin a new 7 bolt crank, new rods and pistons, and a new clutch for now. then break all those in right and be happy for a lil bit. then i think imma move to the head and redo the head with cams at least and i dont know what else. oh and im gettin all these from gre performance at the same time, what do u all think.

oh yea, and thank u illicit tsi for respondin to just about every post ive made, ur very knowledgeable and helpful.

 

[apache211]

well, if you are going to go ahead and build your engine, do it right the first time... my suggestions, .. pull the motor, clean it, repaint it with high temp paint(the long block) take the balance shafts out.. get the crank reworked/turned, or a new one.... new bearings, wiseco pistons, and stronger rods.. or whatever brand you want.. new belts, new water pump then do the oil cooler relocation in the left fender well like on the 1g's.. it's not necessary, but will help the engine run cooler.. get a lightened flywheel... more or less, get the bottom end done all at once.. it will save you time later.. but plan on spending the $ ... because it's not cheap...

by the way, what's your MOS (mine was 67T, and 67R)

 

[da kang3]

mine is 91E- dental specialist. i do braces right now. i wanna change to 91P-x-ray tech, but that mos is over strength so i will just have to wait til i get out in three more years

 

[ScottsTSIAWD]

Think about a jdm 6 bolt.

 

[Illicit TSi]

No problem, Any time, and your quite welcome!
Sounds like a plan.Cams arent too terribly expensive but as far as brand goes,Get HKS.HKS were one of -if not the- first companies to make cams for our cars so they are really trust worthy.AS for pistons and rods.. your stock rods will hold alot more than people give credit for and right now is really all you need.Piston wise you can stay stock or get aftermarket.Aftermarket might be a little more pricey but if you get forged pistons you wont have to worry about much other than scuffing a piston( I know I had it happen) in which case you would get the block checked out(likely wont need anything) and just get a replacement piston or a replacement set.Our blocks can handle ALOT of power so remember that when you are ready to build this car up.

 

[Talesin]

May have a similar problem, though I've been told the rattle is just a loose heatshield on the exhaust... which I plan to fix just by getting a new exhaust anyway. ^_^

At least, I HOPE it isn't the same problem.

 

[Illicit TSi]

try moving the heatsheild.. if it moves then its the problem,if it doesnt then you MIGHT be loking at the same problem.Like it has been said eaarlier.. check over EVERYTHING that it could be that is making the noise and is visible.If you cant find it by that method then you have a problem.

 

[Talesin]

Problem is, I can't reach the exhaust shield... not the one over the turbo, the 'clamshell' around the exhaust piping itself. Seems to be coming from directly under the firewall. Used an inductive stetho to check the block itself, but the rattle didn't *seem* to be coming from there... or at least it wasn't being transmitted very loud through the block itself.

 

[Illicit TSi]

Problem is, I can't reach the exhaust shield... not the one over the turbo, the 'clamshell' around the exhaust piping itself. Seems to be coming from directly under the firewall. Used an inductive stetho to check the block itself, but the rattle didn't *seem* to be coming from there... or at least it wasn't being transmitted very loud through the block itself.

check the one near the downpipe.if you are laying down under the car look up at your downpipe and it should be attached to that..also check your cat.. could be that.Thats what happened in my parents GS,it was the cat when they took it off and apart chunks came out.