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Resolved How to remove axle on 97 GST?

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BLOHS7844

10+ Year Contributor
300
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Oct 25, 2011
Appleton, Wisconsin
I need to remove my axles to replace the boots. How do i get the axle to not spin when I try to take the nut off? My brakes were sent off to be powdercoated. And my transmission is out of my car right now.
 
Impact is key but seeing as your tranny is out aswell, you might need to put a pry bar in the hub spokes. Also, if you need to replace the boots, I always found it best to replace the whole axle. Unless you know that it just ripped and/or there was still plenty of grease in there, then the propeller shaft (Proper name?) might be damaged which will eventually cause the bearings to blow out resulting in heavy vibrations under acceleration, and increased wear on all the other suspension/drive terrain components.
 
One the driver side axle, the clamp was off for a while and the axle was covered in grease... Is there a way to check if it is usable?

Is this the inner or outer boot? You can check for slack in the joint and see if it binds at all. If you replace the boot than buy a couple cans of carb cleaner and try to spray all the grease out of the joint, let it dry than pack it fill of grease and install the new boot.
 
Its the outer boot. I have to replace the inner boot on the other axle too but that's because I ripped it when trying to get the axle out. Are napa cv boots something I can use? I know sometimes cv boots are labeled as universal but those never fit right.
 
Its the outer boot. I have to replace the inner boot on the other axle too but that's because I ripped it when trying to get the axle out. Are napa cv boots something I can use? I know sometimes cv boots are labeled as universal but those never fit right.

As long as it is specific to the car and not a universal than it will work fine. You should be able to get the right one at about any parts store if you have a competent parts guy.
 
When I went to take the nut off, it came off extremely easy. Like just past finger tightening. I had been soaking it everyday for the past week in penetrating oil so the maybe that caused it to slip because of all the tension it was under? Either way I was thinking about maybe putting some threadlock on it when I go to put it back on.
 
When I went to take the nut off, it came off extremely easy. Like just past finger tightening. I had been soaking it everyday for the past week in penetrating oil so the maybe that caused it to slip because of all the tension it was under? Either way I was thinking about maybe putting some threadlock on it when I go to put it back on.

With that nut being torqued to 100+ ft/lbs and the cotter pin, there should be no reason to need threadlocker. You're just creating a headache for future work.
 
With that nut being torqued to 100+ ft/lbs and the cotter pin, there should be no reason to need threadlocker. You're just creating a headache for future work.

Correct, there is no need for thread locker on the axle nut. The cotter pin is more than enough to keep it tightened. The last person that had it apart didn't torque it properly.
 
I am just going to reiterate that using thread lock is a bad idea. I have spent many an hour with a torch and breaker bar because of previous owners that were thread locker happy.

Just torque it down proper and if you mangled the castle nut/cotter pin, just get new ones. with the pin in there, it isnt going to move.
 
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