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Honing finish for XX rings

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GSX_Dan

20+ Year Contributor
138
4
Jun 27, 2004
Chicago, Illinois
I'm going to be throwing in new Wiseco XX rings and I will be honing (de-glazing) the cylinder walls with a drill and a traditional surfacing hone with the 3 spring loaded stones. My question is if this finish that I will get will be fine enough? The tool says it uses 220 grit stones and there doesn't seem to be a choice to buy different ones.

Also if anyone has done this before at home do you have any tips as to how to get the best results? The Haynes manual just says to move the drill up and down and try to get a 60degree crosshatch finish. That doesn't sound like a lot of detail though. Any advice would be appreciated as to what speed to set the drill at and how many passes(up/down) are needed and how fast should I be going up/down? Also how much honing oil should I be using, or can some other type of oil be substituted? Thanks in advance.
 
Well, I use a ball hone, and I'm pretty sure it's 120 grit (Weisco may or may not have specs on what they like to do and what grit to use, I doubt they do, but it wouldn't hurt to give them a call). I've never used the 3 stone one, so I can't be sure if this will work the same way. The ball hone at 120 works out fine for me though, never had a problem with it. Pretty much just set the drill on high and move it up and down kinda slow, but not too slow (hard to explain speed on the computer, LOL), getting the whole cylinder. You'll get pretty steep angled crosshatches. I like to reverse the drill also and do it again, ensuring good coverage. You can use regular motor oil to do it. Make sure you clean out the cylinders after to get any metal shavings that are left.
 
Yea I was looking at the ball type hone also but it was going to yield too course of a finish from what I read on here and from what I remember reading Brian Nutter's(Wiseco SC piston developer) recommendation to run at least 280 grit so that's why I'm asking if 220 grit will do.
 
This was posted in another thread from the guy at wiseco Brian Nutter is his name on here I think, it was .016 on top ring and maybe .020 on the bottom? Don't quote me, but search for his 4 page post where he answered all of the piston questions; was a great thread.

Nick
 
Ok, just to finalize this thread I had contact with Brian Nutter from Wiseco and he recommends a finish of 300 grit and call it a day. Also make sure not to use anything but generic non-synthetic oil without any additives for the first 2000miles.
 
I will be using 320 grit hone (flex hone) on mine and if you don't have honing oil, use 10-30W motor oil. :thumb: My gaps will be a little bigger (still not sure what) than aforementioned since I plan on running more than 22psi of boost. :|

Don't have the drill running too high or else the cross-hatch angle will be too small. It's recommended anywhere from 500-1200rpm and the stroking speed will be dependent on the drill speed as well. Use LOTS of oil.
 
Dont use a 3-stone hone, it is used to straighten the cylinder walls (yours arent straight anymore unless freshly bored) .. not to final finish them. use a 320 ball hone or similar. Also, DO NOT USE OIL, unless it is honing oil. kerosene works fine too.

the 3-stone hone leaves a finish at the microscopic level similar to torn paper. Lots of folded metal. the ball hone leaves a plateau finish and is easier on the rings.

use NON detergent oil for break in. it allows the metal particles released during break-in to remain in the ring belt area and help hone the rings. detergent oil carries these away.

Use Dawn or similar and a nylon toilet brush to clean the cylinder walls down after honing. then, use soap and water and white cotton towels to clean honing residue from the cylinder walls when you're done honing. keep wiping them until no gray residue is on the towels, then use WD40 on clean towels to finsh the cleaning process. finish with motor oil on the walls and get the pistons in asap.
 
goofynick6 said:
This was posted in another thread from the guy at wiseco Brian Nutter is his name on here I think, it was .016 on top ring and maybe .020 on the bottom?

Just wanted to mention that yes those are the specs that the rings are supposed to be out of the box but in my case some of the rings came to .016 on top and .025 and the others were more along wisecos specs. Needless to say those rings were tossed.
 
oil is designed to lubricate. Kerosene is thin yet still oily so it forms a slurry that will allow the hone to do its job. I assume with oil the hone will ride on the oil and not cut as well.
 
jetdriven said:
use NON detergent oil for break in. it allows the metal particles released during break-in to remain in the ring belt area and help hone the rings. detergent oil carries these away.
I don't know if it's true, but it is the first time I've heard a reason for using non-detergent for break-in. Interesting theory.
 
Brian Nutter also recommends using mineral spirits and paper towels to clean the cylinder walls after honing.
 
jetdriven said:
oil is designed to lubricate. Kerosene is thin yet still oily so it forms a slurry that will allow the hone to do its job. I assume with oil the hone will ride on the oil and not cut as well.

That makes sense, however, we are talking about 10-30W here and not some 80-140W oil. I think it's safe to use the 10-30W if so recommended by the hone manufacturer. :thumb:
 
Defiant said:
I don't know if it's true, but it is the first time I've heard a reason for using non-detergent for break-in. Interesting theory.

Standard practice in the piston aircraft industry. Use ND oil and we run them at no less than cruise power (75%) for 50 hours or till oil consumption stabilizes at 6-10 hours per quart. These engines cost between 15-40K for an overhaul.
 
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