DaJackal
10+ Year Contributor
- 89
- 0
- Jun 11, 2009
-
Lappeenranta,
Europe
OK, I know these cam gears are known to have some problems with the timing marks not being accurate. That's ok, we used the stock gears to make our own timing marks. BUT:
First we put in the stock gears and set the cams in right position. Then we locked the cam in place and swapped to OBXs. Then we noticed that the cam pin holes are slightly in a different place and timing was half a tooth (~4 degrees) off. This wouldn't be catastrophic if it would be a full tooth off, because then we could just make new timing marks, but now we can't do that and we have to adjust the cam gears both to -4 degrees to get the timing in place.
My question now is, how much harm does this to their adjustability? We are looking for to get some more power to the lower/middle revs - like from 2k to 5k, to make the car more fun on the street since it's a dd.
Can we just adjust the gears to -4 both to make the timing "correct", use it as a baseline and then take the car to dyno to be tuned & gears adjusted to reach this goal? How many degrees should we have "in use" for this, since this adjustment only leaves us 6 degrees of adjustment space to one direction?
Any info on "what degree numbers are your cam gears se up to" would be great, since if we say that "0 0" (intake cam exhaust cam) is the base timing, then if we knew that this goal could be gained by setting to gears to, say, "-5 5", then we could set the intake cam gear to +4 and make a new timing mark and the exhaust cam gear to -4. Then we would have 14 degrees of adjustment to the direction we "should" be going and the cam gears would be set to "-1 1" when the adjustment were done. On the contrary we would have only 6 degrees of adjustment to the other direction, but that wouldn't mind since we shouldn't be adjusting the gears to this direction in order to gain the results we are after.
(Woah, now that I read it even I have to admit that this is bit confusing. Try to keep up and ask me more if you didn't get it.)
Oh yeah, the mod list is as following:
MS-I Extra (with MS-II daugterboard), Crane 12's, Magnum rockers, PT lifters, Crower titanium valve springs & retainers, AEM CAI, 57mm TB, UDP, 2.5" catback and a 4-1 header.
First we put in the stock gears and set the cams in right position. Then we locked the cam in place and swapped to OBXs. Then we noticed that the cam pin holes are slightly in a different place and timing was half a tooth (~4 degrees) off. This wouldn't be catastrophic if it would be a full tooth off, because then we could just make new timing marks, but now we can't do that and we have to adjust the cam gears both to -4 degrees to get the timing in place.
My question now is, how much harm does this to their adjustability? We are looking for to get some more power to the lower/middle revs - like from 2k to 5k, to make the car more fun on the street since it's a dd.
Can we just adjust the gears to -4 both to make the timing "correct", use it as a baseline and then take the car to dyno to be tuned & gears adjusted to reach this goal? How many degrees should we have "in use" for this, since this adjustment only leaves us 6 degrees of adjustment space to one direction?
Any info on "what degree numbers are your cam gears se up to" would be great, since if we say that "0 0" (intake cam exhaust cam) is the base timing, then if we knew that this goal could be gained by setting to gears to, say, "-5 5", then we could set the intake cam gear to +4 and make a new timing mark and the exhaust cam gear to -4. Then we would have 14 degrees of adjustment to the direction we "should" be going and the cam gears would be set to "-1 1" when the adjustment were done. On the contrary we would have only 6 degrees of adjustment to the other direction, but that wouldn't mind since we shouldn't be adjusting the gears to this direction in order to gain the results we are after.
(Woah, now that I read it even I have to admit that this is bit confusing. Try to keep up and ask me more if you didn't get it.)
Oh yeah, the mod list is as following:
MS-I Extra (with MS-II daugterboard), Crane 12's, Magnum rockers, PT lifters, Crower titanium valve springs & retainers, AEM CAI, 57mm TB, UDP, 2.5" catback and a 4-1 header.
