Help!!! Drivetrain Issues

[1990talon]

OK it started out like this. I went to the track yesterday I ran a couple times everything was fine then I pulled up agian and was getting redy to launch then I launched at around 5800 rpms then clunk and it felt like my clutch so I am pretty sure my clutch is toast now here comes what I dont know I drove it home and had normal clutch problems it would slip if I acellerated fast at all> but I felt a few clunks putting it in gear today so I drive it to work taking it very easy and then go to back up to park and it is making noises like a axle is bad like clicking but it dosnt do it when I turn or go forward just in reverse. What is wrong with it. Can anyone help please.

Thanks Brandon

 

[1990talon]

Does any one have any thoughts I need this to get me to work everyday I dont know if I should just do the clutch or if other parts need replaced as well.

Thanks

 

[DSM90AWD]

Center diff is likely toast. Try crankign the wheel to the extreme right or left from a stop and accelerate slowly (in forward or reverse). If you feel binding, center diff is shattered and needs replacement

 

[1990talon]

Thanks ill try that when I get off work and let you know.

 

[boostaddict1g]

One other thing to try is if you still have a 3bolt rear then go under the rear of the car and grap the axle shafts and shake them both. They should have very little movement but if one has more than the other thats your culpret.

 

[1990talon]

Ok I did the slow turn no binding. So its my 18th birthday today and dont have time to work on it today so tomarro I will check the rear differantial Thanks guys will update tommarro What clutch should I run this time should I go with the act 2900 I want it to last and I ran a 12.9 so I plan to run a little faster any thoughts also if diff is bad should I go with the 4 bolt. Thanks guys.

 

[brute]

Just get the 2600. That should be fine with your goals.

edit: and happy b-day

 

[1990talon]

Ok so I replaced my clutch and still have problems. So I decided to check my rear differential and one side moved just a little and the other side move in and out a lot But it still seems as if my clutch is slipping could this be the reason or it there still something wrong with the clutch? It just seems like a weird simptom for the diff. so if any one could help at all I would appriciate it alot.

Thanks brandon.

 

[1990talon]

Also how do I tell if it is a three or four bolt think the guy before me said it was three but cant remember.

 

[1990talon]

Ok dsm90awd what exactly is your center diff is that the same as the rear diff? or something differnt? I felt no binding but still I dont exactly know what that is and just want everything that is wrong to be fixed.

 

[DSM90AWD]

Ok dsm90awd what exactly is your center diff is that the same as the rear diff? or something differnt? I felt no binding but still I dont exactly know what that is and just want everything that is wrong to be fixed.

The Center Diff is part of the transmission and allows the Front and Rear wheels to rotate at different speeds (e.g. when making hard turns). The Front (also part of the tranny) and Rear (part of the rear end) differentials perform the same function but for the wheels on their respective ends of the car.

The "Binding" I mentioned to indicate a bad Center Diff results when the teeth of the two side spiders of the center diff crack so when is in use (during sharp turns) will not have proper engagement and will slip / bind

 

[1990talon]

Ok I just want to stress how much I appriciate all your help. So if one axle of my rear end moves a little and the other moves alot, and when I jack my car up and put it in gear I can rotate the rear tires by hand and the drive line dosen't move also the other tire does not move either so is my rear end bad? Also should jack the car up on all fours and start it and see if the drive line spins when in gear would this be a valid check for the center diff.

Thank you agian Really appriciate all the help,
Brandon

 

[DSM90AWD]

On the 3-bolt rears, the axles are the weak point. They snap at the splines usually inside or near where would do into the differential. Easiest way to check for sure is to first drain the diff (check for obvious "chunks" of gear ) and then remove the (3) bolts that connect the axles to the hub (setting the e-brake first makes this easier) and then pull the axle out of the rear diff. It will be obvious if one of the shafts are broken. A relatedVFAQ.

Diagnosing the center diff really involves driving in tight left or right turns in forward or reverse as both front/rear need the same tork but spin at a different speed (in a sharp forward turn the front wheels travel a shorter distance than the rear, opposite for a sharp reverse turn).

You cant' really drain the tranny and see center diff pieces as it's generally contained within the center diff assembly. VFAQ on Center Diff Repairs

 

[1990talon]

Cool I will check that out when I get home and drain the fliud out of the diff and probably pull the axles to check right now i am at work it will take me till about five to get home and I will try to post results of these things by nine.

Thanks once agian,
Brandon

 

[1990talon]

Sorry I didn't post last night I was riding with my dad and his car broke, so I didn't get to work on my car till late then went to bed but any ways, I pulled the rear axle and drained the fluid my axle broke in half I am going to replace it it my take a couple days for the parts to come in though. Hopefully this will fix it and I wont have any more problems but, I still have one other problem the axle broke right at the splined part so they are still in the diff. how can I get this out any idea?

Thanks,
Brandon

 

[mitsu420at]

i would pull the diff apart. i will get you a website here shortly to help you get -er -done

 

[1990talon]

One other thing the part store asked if it was or wasn't limited slip how can I tell?

 

[DSM90AWD]

I still have one other problem the axle broke right at the splined part so they are still in the diff. how can I get this out any idea?

If you remove the other side's axle you should be able to punch it out from the other side back the way it came in. I assume it was the driver's side? That's the one that broke on mine.

BTW, can pick up a complete 3-bolt diff for < $200 since most folks with them upgrade to a 4-bolt setup, but if spending the money anyway (and plan to do more spirited launches ) , a complete LSD 4-bolt rear w/axle cups is a much better option and should run you $350-450

 

[DSM90AWD]

One other thing the part store asked if it was or wasn't limited slip how can I tell?

Mine had a Sticker on the pumpkin indicating an LSD

 

[1990talon]

Do you think my diff is ok? I need a car for the weekend and dont get paid till the 5th so a four bolt wouldn't be an option untill then. I only have another $250 to spend till pay day then I could get a four bolt. If you think my diff is messed up is there a temporary fix until then.

 

[DSM90AWD]

If the end that broke off comes out cleanly and the splines aren't fubarred, a replacement axel should get you by. Mine cracked and got caught up in the innards of the diff making it unsalvagable.

I've an extra P/S axle (if that was the one that broke) I could send you for shipping costs, though may be better off hitting a local boneyard if need by the weekend. I remember replacement 3-bolts were hard to come by at one point (NAPA), but may want to check for yourself

 

[1990talon]

I broke the drivers side thanks though they are hard to find only parts store is autozone and they have to order it so Ill just do that and pay a little more to get it here quicker. Thanks for the offer thats really cool! I will let you know how it goes and if that solves my problems.

Thanks,
Brandon

 

[Mike1992]

Reading this scares me as we're at around the same power level according to track times. Hope I dont go through this anytime soon.

 

[DSM90AWD]

Mine went in the mid-13s, so did my first center differential.
Was fine until I swapped to my H&R / AGX combo which apparently (accroding to Archer Racing) may bottom out quicker than the stock setup = more shock to the rear drivetrain parts.

Stock 4-bolt rears are way stronger and will last thru 500WHP on radials. Way more than that with upgraded axles

 

[1990talon]

As far as the track times I was putting this down running rich due to only a converted stock boost sensor to knock, and no logger, borrowed a longer and started to lean it out a little ran a twelve nine then leaned it a little more it got cooler and snap broke the axle also the guy that owned the car before me launched it at the track all the time and before he sold me the car he was real honest about the car and told me everything he said he hadnt changed the axles and hadn't dont the four bolt swap (at the time I didnt Know what this was) but he said the axles were quite old and recomended the swap. So from what people have told me expecilly all the great help from dsm90awd has given me i am going to put in the axle for now and find a Four bolt. So mike 1992 I would recomend the swap before you break it from what I have went through and from what I have heard.

Thanks,
Brandon