head swap not getting any fuel

[myboostedtalon]

I put a new head on my 90 tsi awd and got everything back together and not getting any fuel I don't believe fuel pump is coming on car sat for 3 months without a head I'm pretty sure CAS is on properly and I'm not sure what else it could be besides the realy or the CAS any ideas?

 

[monster4g63tawd]

easy way to tell if its a fuel problem just unhook the fuel line going into the fuel rail and put the hose into a container and see if it is pumping any fuel into the container by turning over the motor for a second or two

cas are sensitave, when i put a new timing belt on my car i guess i ended up hitting it with something and it broke it so the car wouldnt start but it would turn over. not sure if thats your problem seeing as you have a 1g and most likely have the 1g cas.

 

[805DSM]

The cam angle sensor has nothin todo with fuel. Check that the MPI fuse is good and all the fuses on the positive terminal on the battery. Like stated above, remove the fuel line from the rail and have someone crank it and see if theres any fuel coming out.

 

[kchaazz]

Actually, the fuelpump is controlled by a relay, which is controlled by the ecu, which ONLY turns on the pump when it is receiving timing references from 1. The crank angle sensor on a later 2G, or 2. The cam angle sensor on a 1g car. Test my info by disconnecting the line to your rail, unplugging the cas or crank angle sensor and cranking the motor over and I guarantee you will not get any fuel out of that hose.

To the OP, the only problem youre having is directly related to having left something unplugged. Check the coilpack, igniter, resister box, and CAS. Also, put the engine at TDC. Take off the cas, and line up the notch and the dot on the cas and reinstal the cas. Reason for this is, the car WILL run and SEEM ok with the CAS 180 degrees out of phase, however, the injectors will not be firing at the proper times and you will run lean, especially at WOT. I have confirmed this with a wideband and the only way to properly install a 1G cas is the way I mentioned above.

 

[myboostedtalon]

There is no fuel getting to the fuel rail I tried that last night and there was no fuel i was reading up and from what i am getting at if the car is not getting spark it wont trigger the relay to activate the fuel pump, is that correct?

And all fuses under the hood are good I'm gonna check the relays by the ecu tonight to see if they are good

 

[kchaazz]

There is no fuel getting to the fuel rail I tried that last night and there was no fuel i was reading up and from what i am getting at if the car is not getting spark it wont trigger the relay to activate the fuel pump, is that correct?

Yes, you are correct. Reinstall the cas per my instructions and check to be absolutely sure the above mentioned items are properly and securely plugged in. Be sure also to have the square retainer clips installed in the plugs for the igniter and injector plugs as they will come loose under engine vibration.

 

[myboostedtalon]

I have everything plugged in correctly I will check for spark tonight and take the CAS off and do how you said it should be done. I took it off the old head and put it on the new one the way it came off

 

[MY1GDSM]

If that doesn't work ...
I would check for continuity back to the ECU pins from the CAS...

 

[GRAVEDIGGER]

The cam angle sensor has nothin todo with fuel.

Yes it does have something to do with fuel. Without the signals from the CAS you aren't going to get any fuel.

Here's a good read on testing the CAS.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/electrical-tech/394020-how-test-1g-cas.html?highlight=1g+cas+test

 

[kchaazz]

One thing I forgot to mention is, if the ECU is in question, turn the key to the "ON" position. Now, look at the dash. Does the factory boost gauge needle go up to the 0 position? Does the Check engine light come on, and, a couple seconds later go back off? If only one or neither of these two things are happening, there is a problem with the ECU. The easiest thing to check first is to be sure that all the wires on the positive side of the battery are clean and have a good connection; the ground wires as well. (If everything looks good at the battery and there is no activity on the boost gauge or the check engine light either stays on or doesnt come on, have someone sit in the drivers seat with the key on while you wiggle the battery terminals to see if things change) Id be willing to bet its one of these simple things. Also, be sure to inspect the wires for the CAS where they come out of the CAS body. 90 model CAS wires are notorious for breaking off right where they go into the CAS body and sometimes you have to look very closely to spot the failure.

 

[myboostedtalon]

And when you say notch and dot have to be aligned on the CAS do you have a picture of that with the two circled so I can be sure it is aligned

 

[kchaazz]

Take the cas off the head. turn it so that the part that fits in the head is facing you. You see the part that spins? One of the tabs will have a notch cut into it, and, on the plate behind the part that spins, you will see another notch. You want to turn the cas so that these marks are lined up and if you have the engine at TDC with the timing marks on the cams lined up with the dowel pins up, you can put the cas back in and it will be right.

 

[myboostedtalon]

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I took it off it was 180 out I got it to barely idle twice around 300-400 rpms normally is around 1500 until it reaches operating temperature and I couldn't get the rpms up even while pushing the throttle and there is a vacuum line off the middle of the intake behind fuel rail that i can't find where it goes any ideas?

Also would twisting the CAS have an effect on it running better as it is adjustable

 

[kchaazz]

Ok. There should be three ports in that area of the intake manifold. The largest one toward the left connects to the PCV valve on the back left corner of the valve cover. The second largest one goes to the blowoff valve, and the smallest, rightmost nipple goes to the fuel pressure regulator, or the fuel pressure solenoid; the solenoid is located on the firewall, near the brake fluid reservoir. Having an open vacuum port on the manifold can be the cause of your current problem. Id also check to be absolutely sure the sparkplug wires are hooked up properly, in the correct order, and also plugged in all the way where they go into the coilpack. About twisting the CAS. Do you have a timing light?? You are going to have to set the base timing advance to 5 deg BTDC. Do it before driving the car, once you get it running. In order to do this, you have to ground the timing plug. Its near the battery, and Ive attached a pic. You want the car warmed up to operating temperature, steering wheel centered, so there is no load on the powersteering pump, which in turn will put load on the engine. You also want all your lights and other things off as well. If you go to VFAQ.COM, there is a tech article on this with pics to help.

 

[myboostedtalon]

pm sent kchaazz