The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Hawk Rotors?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Talnz167

15+ Year Contributor
84
0
Jun 11, 2004
Yep, Ohio
I was thinking about buying some Hawk rotors for my 2Gt, wondered if they are any good and if anyone has experience with them?

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
from all i hear the powerslots (the ones you have a pic of) not that great. Get some TPMs... they have 'em at slowboyracing.com They're drilled and slotted... You might wanna get some HAWK pads... I hear they're good... ;)
 
Powerslot makes the rotors.

They recommend Hawk pad............ which is a seperate company.


I have experience with both. I have been extremely happy with both.


I will probably stick with Hawk pads.....Hell I have two extra sets of their pads in my inventory for future changes.


BTW I used to run EBC green stuff....and I find the Hawks to be better.
 
FYI,


The powesolt rotor are good and stay looking good for a long time. The slotting helps to evac gass build up.


Honestly though, your these or cross drilled rotors will not decrease stopping distance or significant increase braking performance.

To decrease stopping distance you MUST go to a bigger rotor. Thats the only way. Its is simple physics on the basis of leverage.

Bigger calipers and more pistons help to reduce caliper flex and apply more even pressure to the pads.

As far as tuning goes....you need to experiment with different pad compounds.
 
Powerslot are OEM sizes rotors. About 10.8"
Powerslot bought from AEM their big brake kit and are presently offering thoses 12.5" rotors that are far better than OEM size rotors in terms of thermal capacity. If you plan a few days at your near home track it would be a better choice.
For street use, with a good set of Hp+ pads, the OEM size is not bad.
 
Diablo, I agree to disagree with you.

More pistons equal more power to stop your car, true. However you must understand that brakes don't just work based on how hard you can grab a rotor. Heat is the name of the game. Yes your right, larger rotors mean more area to disapate heat but that is obviously very costly. I changed to power slot rotors and axis pads a while back and have had much improved braking over stock.

Buy some power slots...pick a pad...and definetly get some braided lines too. Goodrich lines will work (and they're cheaper than others)

You won't regret it.

Dan
 
Detail said:
Diablo, I agree to disagree with you.

More pistons equal more power to stop your car, true. However you must understand that brakes don't just work based on how hard you can grab a rotor. Heat is the name of the game. Yes your right, larger rotors mean more area to disapate heat but that is obviously very costly. I changed to power slot rotors and axis pads a while back and have had much improved braking over stock.

Buy some power slots...pick a pad...and definetly get some braided lines too. Goodrich lines will work (and they're cheaper than others)

You won't regret it.

Dan

i have to agree. All of our customers report an increase in braking power. A noticeable one at that. I have even had some guys call me and say that our brake kit saved them once because they had to stop quickly and they don't think their stock pads and rotors would have. The whole point to drilled and or slotted rotors is to release heat, with less heat you are less likely to get brake face and warp rotors.

Lines are a CRUCIAL part of the whole equation. With SS lines you get a consitant pedal pressure that will not allow for a spongy, mushy feeling caused by a bubble in the lines.
 
man its nice to be backed up!

Personal testimony not from a vendor:

My stock rotors I literally lit on fire racing on hilly roads north of Atlanta. I had sparks shooting down the side of the car and the rotors were glowing like gran turismo. Cool to look at but scarry as hell in practice. Since switching to power slots, pads, and lines I've never done that again. Not the best in the world...but very consistant with the price.

Dan
 
prostreetdsmx1 said:
The whole point to drilled and or slotted rotors is to release heat...

Hogwash. The main purpose of slots and such is to release trapped gases. They have little or no effect on heat dissipation. The aspects of fancy rotors that are key to dumping heat are the vanes between the plates.

- Jtoby
 
DiabloRT said:
FYI,
The powesolt rotor are good and stay looking good for a long time. The slotting helps to evac gass build up.

Honestly though, your these or cross drilled rotors will not decrease stopping distance or significant increase braking performance.

To decrease stopping distance you MUST go to a bigger rotor. Thats the only way. Its is simple physics on the basis of leverage.

Bigger calipers and more pistons help to reduce caliper flex and apply more even pressure to the pads.

As far as tuning goes....you need to experiment with different pad compounds.


Dangerous over-simplification, with implicit advice that is just simply wrong.

There are 3 basics to brakes:
1) lever arm length - ie the distance from the centre of the rotor to the centre of the pistons - more distance = more retardation.
2) Clamping force - the pressure exerted on the pads by the caliper pistons. Simple though that sounds, it is not. This is controlled by the lever arm length of the brake pedal and the RATIO of master cylinder piston area and caliper piston area.
3) Cf of the pad material on the rotor material. Change the rotor material and the Cf can change, classic example being motorcycles - Stainless rotors vs cast iron.

#3 complicates significantly once temperature is factored in, because all friction materials have an optimum temperature range - go outside that temperature range and the CF falls off, often dramatically - this is when the pedal is still rock solid but the car isn't slowing down. This is why pad choice is so critical and why there are so many diffrent pads from each (serious) pad manufacturer.

Increasing the lever arm length is only one way of increasing retardation, and it has its own problems: a) increase in unsprung weight, this is bad because it's harder for the suspension to control the wheel movement b) increase in gyroscopic effect - this is bad because it affects the steering - the wheels don't want to turn.

# of pistons - this has nothing (directly) to do with improving braking, except for one instance - it can be used to increase the effective rotor diameter where packaging issues exist. The primary use of mutiple pistons is to equalise the pressure across the pad to equalise wear - this is also the reason for differential bore calipers, it offsets the tendency for the pad to wear more at one end than the other.

More pistons do not reduce the incidence of caliper flex - caliper design reduces caliper flex and little else does (assuming correct mounting).

Where's Todd when you need him :)

Charles
 
Poloturbo said:
Very good "resumé"

Better tires also would be an option...


Better tyres are the cornerstone to all vehicle performance, it starts and ends with your tyres. They are your single connection to the ground. Understanding your tyres, and how to maximise their potential is what racing is all about, drag, circle, auto-x, road course, doesn't matter, it's all about tyres.

Second only to Mitsubishi, the tyre companies are the absolute worst at promoting their products.

All these exotic suspension systems are all doing nothing more than trying to give the tyrs the best possible opportunity to deliver the most grip they can for as long as possible.

In a nutshell, that's it, period.

Charles
 
I am surprised no one mentioned the reduction of rotor surface area when you drill/dimple/slot them. All that crap can actually hurt braking performance.

If you do buy drilled rotors, keep a CLOSE eye on them. They are prone to cracking.

Spend money on pads before rotors.
 
ACM said:
Dangerous over-simplification, with implicit advice that is just simply wrong.

Charles


A you ####en serious, what about your post and conclusion is so much different?
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top