Fuel cut issue?

[mazda-man]

I have been dealing with this problem ever since I started to mod the car which isn't any more then a full 3 inch exhaust, intake, greddy blow off valve, and hard piping kit. I'm still running the stock turbo but if I go full throttle the car will rev up and then just feel like somebody droped a anchor out of the back of the car and then it will stop and do it again and just continue the cycle. If you don't go full throttle you can take it right to redline with no problem. And also sometimes it won't act up at all. I have done all the regular checks like plugs, wires, boost leak test and the only leaks I have are the injector seals and my fuel pressure regulator. Also my boost is at 15psi and when I go wide open on my wideband goes to the low 10's. Isn't that a little rich for a stock turbo? Or is it having a issue because of the leaking fuel pressure regulator? Any other opinions or help will be appreciated. Thanks

 

[skatershawn]

no.. 15psi isnt that much to hit fuel cut inless he has a boost leak!
i was running 15psi on a stock system a while back with 20psi of boost creep and not cut!
I know it isn't healthy and fixed it! But i don't think running 15psi is the whole issue!!!

Edit:

Well if your leaking boost from you AFR then it isn't working the way it should under boost! Your fuel pressure is dropping under boost when it needs to increase to help keep up the fuel need!
That is probably the main reason you are running lean under Full boost!!

 

[mazda-man]

Its not running lean under boost but rich. My aem uego says it is in the low 11's to high 10's for afr. I also am still running the stock boost control system on the car so I have not upped the boost at all.

 

[AlaskanDsm]

First off, I would fix those small leaks you have. Second, you may be encountering boost creep with the full 3" exhaust when you are wide open. If you are on the stock fuel system, you shouldn't run anything more than 15 PSI to be safe.

 

[nine2eclipsegsx]

I agree.

its not safe to run how your running man. Sounds like your testing the waters by asking a question on how-to-fix too early first, instead of fixing whats wrong with the car (boost leaks) in the first place. i would upgrade your fuel system or Get a tune bro. A piggy back system works as long as professionally tuned! theyre fairly cheap and you can adjust fuel curves where needed. or maybe hks fcd. Dude its running lean!..not rich when it falls on its face. you have it backwards. Your gauge is wrong if thats what your going off of. If you dont pound it and your able to go all the way with it to redline(thats gonna be a different reading). and also only readable at full throttle...when you get your fuel cut, your not gonna have a accurate reading at that time. You dont need that 3inch exhaust either. a 2.5 inch would do just the same. alil over kill for your set-up. Your gonna get some boost creep with that. Its nice to say you have it, but its not needed..my buddies run 2.5"inch piping the high 11sec./low 12sec. 1/4 mile passes no problem. Choose what you do to your vehicle in a specific order because if you do one thing..it will create another reaction to compensate for. such as your exhaust and lack of injector upgrade? are you running a upgraded fuel pump. You said it was rich when u hit cut? That would be too much fuel and cause car to get doggy at high rpm boosting. Just sounds like if you keep your set up..your gonna have to add a tune and do some fuel programming. good luck on the 20psi stock injector boosting! phhh! 15psi is cut off..and your maxed out! wonder why your getting fuel cut? hmm?

 

[mazda-man]

First of I am a master tech for mitsu so I have extremely good knowledge on how engines work and have built many cars. My other talon had more done to it then this one and never hit fuel cut and I had a nitrous kit on it and never had one problem. I did have a upgraded fuel pump on that car though. I have many other things to install on the car like a upgraded pump, evo3 16g, act clutch, etc but am fixing other issues first. I know and am planning on fixing the small boost leaks but that shouldn't cause the issue I am having and again the car can run just as poorly rich as it can lean. And again the car is running rich not lean and nor did I say I plan on running 20psi on a t25 which would be pointless. I hate people when they start talking crap and have no idea what they are talking about. I did the 3inch exhaust because I got it for cheaper then you could have made a 2.5 inch and if your buddy is running 11's with his 2.5 good for him but what does that have to do with my car? And I guess the next thing your going to tell me is when a car backfires its because its rich right? Well it can backfire from both a lean or rich condition and the piggyback computers are pretty much a waste of money when I can just go with a dsmlink which can do a hell of alot more.

 

[GRAVEDIGGER]

I have done all the regular checks like plugs, wires, boost leak test and the only leaks I have are the injector seals and my fuel pressure regulator. Also my boost is at 15psi and when I go wide open on my wideband goes to the low 10's. Isn't that a little rich for a stock turbo?

Sounds like you need to fix the leaks at the injector seals and the fpr and see what happens. Your air/fuel ratio sounds about right to me, especially with a boost leak. These cars run pig rich from the factory in case you didn't know that too though.

 

[JasonStern]

I have many other things to install on the car like a upgraded pump, evo3 16g, act clutch, etc

if you're running into fuel problems on a T25, why are you upgrading to an evo3 16 without upgrading your fuel injectors?

I know and am planning on fixing the small boost leaks but that shouldn't cause the issue I am having

boost leaks will cause the car to run rich. the ECU thinks the motor is receiving more air, but it isn't because it's leaking. thus the ECU injects more fuel for the measured air, which again, isn't going into the motor...

I did the 3inch exhaust

FWIW, I currently have a 3" exhaust with a T25 and I don't suffer from boost creep as much as I do spiking...

 

[GRAVEDIGGER]

boost leaks will cause the car to run rich. the ECU thinks the motor is receiving more air, but it isn't because it's leaking. thus the ECU injects more fuel for the measured air, which again, isn't going into the motor...

Awwww, c'mon man.... You don't think you'd have to explain this to a master tech for Mitsu do you?

 

[mazda-man]

I know I upped the boost up slightly with changing the intake, exhaust and intercooler piping but really wouldn't think the small leaks would really cause this issue but have already ordered the injectors seals and haven't decided on the fpr yet. May go with a afpr instead of the stocker so I don't overrun the unit with the 255 walbro. And I never said I was upgrading the turbo until I fixed the running issue yet and you can install the 16g and run a stock boost level with no problem and change the injectors out when you are ready to up the boost.

 

[GRAVEDIGGER]

have already ordered the injectors seals and haven't decided on the fpr yet. May go with a afpr instead of the stocker so I don't overrun the unit with the 255 walbro.

Although it's not a bad idea to get an afpr, the 2g regulators hold up pretty well to the 255 pumps from what I have seen. So it might be more economical to just replace the fpr with another stock one and replace the injector seals and see what happens. Good luck

 

[AlaskanDsm]

I think you are on the right idea. With the 255, some people have noticed that they overrun their stock FPR sometimes and playing safe to get the AFPR just sounds like a good deal. Not to mention, you will already have most of the fuel mods at that point to start running more boost once you fix your current issue!! But Gravedigger has a good point about the 2g FPR.

I know I currently have a few small leaks which is causing my car to definetely run richer than normal.

 

[mazda-man]

My old talon had a 255 with the stock regulator and would run slightly rich at idle but ran fine other wise but it'll probably come down to money on what I go with at the moment. Most likely will use the stocker again but I appreciate the input and once I get the last couple leaks fixed I hope it fixes the problem.

 

[skatershawn]

well sorry about my previous post saying you were running lean!

But you still have leaks as stated before and yes it can be enough to cause rich conditions!
I would do a Full Boost leak test and fix everything and think about getting a AFPR!
You dont' need new inj. if you only running 15psi, they will suffice for now!

fix the leaks and let us know whats up!
good luck with everything,

 

[LandoAWD]

If I were in a penis measuring contest, I wouldn't do it with piss-poor grammar, questionable mods, and 7 posts.

Furthermore, I wouldn't be a hypocrite and label myself nice, then proceed to mouth off like a slow 10 year old.

It's a shame I can only warn once per post, so here is a verbal warning to accompany the formal one; cut the shit, newbie.

 

[ECLIPSE1992GSX]

see you in 7 days!

 

[LandoAWD]

IP ban coming!

 

[AlaskanDsm]

If its ok, I would still like to leave this gif up for nostalgic reasons (remove if its not acceptable )

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Mazda-man, I look forward to seeing the results of having those leaks fixed!! Please post back so that we may continue to figure out whats wrong if that doesn't solve the issue. How long are you looking at until you can have those parts?

 

[mazda-man]

I am most likely getting both the fpr and the injector rebuild kits next week. That is if I can find a dealer near me that has the fpr or I will have to order one. If I don't get the car fixed in the next week or so I'll have to put it on the back burner for now as my second son will be born next month. Between my son and the second I will be busy dealing with them and getting used to two kids. I will for sure post back what happens once I replace those parts.