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Front end frame clip removal???

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Charlieee

10+ Year Contributor
88
1
Aug 9, 2012
Anthony, New Mexico
My gst was in a crash and the front end is completly messed up, i started removing it but the way im doing it is kinda making it worse haha just asking for some help on how to remove it the easy way LOL thanx in advance!!!
DSM all the way :hellyeah:
 
That only things that are removable are the fenders, hood, and bumper. The rest is all welded together. If you want to replace any of the inner structures you will need to drill out the spot welds and weld new parts in.
 
That only things that are removable are the fenders, hood, and bumper. The rest is all welded together. If you want to replace any of the inner structures you will need to drill out the spot welds and weld new parts in.

yea i already removed my fenders except for the hood dont want my engine to get dirty haha and i started removing the weld spots with a flat head and a hammer, but drilling them out sounds a lot easier man :ohdamn: i can probably get my uncle to to weld the new parts together
Thanx alot for the advice man!!!
 
El Paso is where I picked up my DSM. Still has the Texas stickers in the windshield LOL.

Have you actually successfully gotten through a spot weld with a flat head/hammer?
 
haha for real? haha how much did you pay for it? and i got mine in las cruces for 800 bucks

and yea dude i have hahaha im sure my neighbors hate me though i was hammering the f&%k out of them late at night haha

and dang i hope i have some luck finding the spot weld cutters hopefully auto zone has them (fingers crossed)

ha supras are dope af!!! i hate it when dsm owners do the supra tail light swap though fkn ricer crap haha
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Well it was my first DSM, didn't have much experience so I didn't know how much they went for. They seemed pretty rare because I couldn't find one anywhere close. At the time I was in AZ looking for 2 weeks through the closest states. Finally found one in decent shape in TX, it was $4700. I paid $4600 though figured it was a good price since they seemed rare. We borrowed a little HHR from my aunt so it didn't cost much in gas. I know it was a bit pricey but the engine/trans was fully built, 6bolted and came with some decent quality mods on top. I wouldn't go back in time I don't think :)

Anyway good luck with the spot weld cutting, I hope to tackle something like that sometime soon
 
nice nice no crank walk for you haha im trippen about mine because its manual but im gonna run the risk since i couldnt find an auto :/ but yea man thanx for the tips ill post up some pics on how the progress goes!!!
 
nice nice no crank walk for you haha im trippen about mine because its manual but im gonna run the risk since i couldnt find an auto :/ but yea man thanx for the tips ill post up some pics on how the progress goes!!!

Any motor can CW (crankwalk). The 7 bolts that are most likely to CW, are the 95-96 7 bolt motors. In 97 they revised the 7 bolt to be less prone to CW. So you do not have to worry about it. Autos will CW as well.
 
Not all 97 have the better thrust bearing design. It's typically only the 97.5+

And it CAN snow in Phoenix AZ, it's just not as common as say, a northern state like Colorado, Montana etc snows. But I guess it can snow just about anywhere given the right conditions, right? ;)
 
....The chances of a 95/96 walk vs other DSM years, or even other completely differnt engines for that matter are higher. That's kind of what it boils down to
 
hahahdude you already got an extra one laying around xD lucky bastard and as far as my dsm goes i dont think im getting rid of it haha no matter how much it takes ill be broke but ill have a running dsm :D

oh nice nice, but still i would like to own an auto given the fact that i wont have to worry about clutches craping out on me
 
A combination of bolts and spot welds hold together the front of your car. If you have crashed the vehicle the first thing I would of done before attempting to remove anything was taken it to a frame machine and have the car checked out and if the crash wasn't to violent straighten the car back to specifications. By removing the front of the car you have now if not properly had the cars frame aligned ruined a lot of your chances of that thing going straight down the road without you pulling the wheel half way across the steering colum. Not to mention random and violent shakes at various speeds, creating a danger to drive at a high speed or over not very friendly roadways. If you get the new front end on before alignment of the frame the only shot you have is bringing it back to the machine and then attempting to straighten with the new front assembly installed, but then you run a heightened risk of bending the parts that you have bought if they were purchased used, or aftermarket. Not very many body parts as as sturdy as the New OEM replacement part. Aftermarket is cheaper for a reason.

Are as* Sorry for the typos. I promise I can spell, maybe just not today. Haha
 
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