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Woah! Thats a crazy difference! that paint really brings it back to life! That's really good looking work. Cant wait to see it with the rims. hopefully they fit. DSM from the grave
 
They don't fit right, their is about a half inch of wheel poke
 
Their really isn't any getting around the wheel poke, they just don't fit right
 
I went with a set of black and white gtr sport rims 18"
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Daddy likes
 
Still waiting in my coilovers to arrive so I can get a nice stance and better handling, looks like I need new tie rod ends also

Interior is going to have to wait a little bit longer, I'm getting cut out in the motor under high boost pressure so I need to check the system for boost leak
 
The car didn't pass deq, I'm being told that is has a ton of codes, I need some help from you guys to get this thing legal, Anyone know of an honest shop in portland or can anyone come over and give me a hand? Or can I come to u?
 
The codes are over boost, o2 sensor. And their is no catback exhaust.
 
Replaced the outflo o2 sensor, but I can't get the inflo 02 to break lose, sprayed her down with some on blaster, will try again tomorrow
 
nice job man, at least someone is into the body work section. i cant stand sanding.

over boost id start checking the wastgate vac lines, and possibly a leaky wg diaghram. o2 stuff could be a fouled o2, try getting the thing warmed up, then hit it with pb or penetrating oil. thats how we un-seized my buddys rusted out header studs on his f250.

could try to find a stock catback to pass inspection then swap it out.
 
Replaced both o2 sensors and that problem is fixed, adjusted the idle and the high idle code is fixed.

Their is 2 tubes on the waist gate, one goes to the air line attract her to the maf, the other one is capped with a big screw in the tube...

On a lighter note, I installed and level tuned the new coilovers set up, looks awesome.

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for the catback issue, you need to trick the rear 02 sensor. the catback CEL is caused by the rear o2 detecting the gases the cat would've normally filtered out. This is fixed by deacreasing the amount of exhaust gas that reaches the rear o2 sensor.

Either of these should fix your issue, but i'd go with adjustable to be safe.: http://www.streettunedmotorsports.com/parts/vibrant_o2_sensor_adjustable_jets.htm http://www.streettunedmotorsports.com/parts/check_engine_fix.htm

Also, if you have ECMlink you can use that to shut off the CEL.
 
Thx for the tip, but I have a little different idea I use to do on my 240sx, I'm going to build a removable cat mount on the frame, slap it on, pass deq, then take it right back off and put it on the shelf for next year
 
But I don't know to much about waist gates, can someone explains to me where the tubes go and what to look for on the waist gate to adjust boost?

I'm not really looking for huge hp numbers, just a cool looking turbo eclipse that is reliable is my main goal here.
 
Yeah that's a good idea because some places check for a physical cat under the car.

By tubes, i'm guessing you're talking about dump tubes? the wastegate routes the excess exhaust through them. People either dump them to atmosphere under the engine, or route them back into the exhaust further down the line after the turbo. dumping to atmosphere is quite loud generally but wont restrict your exhaust flow like re-routing back to the exhaust will (though i note its not much of a difference). Basically, if you want it loud, dump to atmosphere, if you want to be able to drive by cops, route it back to the exhaust.

You don't adjust the actual boost on the wastegate. A line is connected to a boost controller which then controls the boost. Simply put...
 
How do I check the waist gate to see if it is leaking?

I need to get the over boost under control so any advice would be helpful
 
Do you know if it has a boost controller? Or is it stock? You said earlier it was around teh stock 12psi pressure, so ill just assume you dont.

heres a vacuum line diagram for the eclipse:
2Gvacuum.jpg

As i see it there are a few things that could be causing our issue: bad BOV (bypass valve), bad wastegate / solenoid or bad vacuum tubing. Now to test these things:

BOV: Boost pressure keeps this shut when the car is under pressure. when you let off the throttle, the throttle body closes and there is then no longer pressure holding this shut, so the left over pressure in the IC piping pushes this open and lets the pressure equalize. To test: take of the BOV and make sure the diaphragm isn't stuck shut. You could also check the vacuum line to the intake.

Wastegate: Similar to the BOV in function. The wastegate solenoid activates when there is too much boost in the system which opens up the wastegate to allow some of the exhaust to divert around the turbo and thus decreasing boost created by the turbo.

The Solenoid is most likely your issue. If you bypass the solenoid, the wastegate should be open all the time and you shouldn't build boost. So, take a male to male nipple and connect the two hoses connected to the solenoid together (you could do the same by supply 12-15psi from your air compressor to the waste gate and seeing if it actuates). If you can still build boost like this, then either A have a malfunctioning wastegate or B a hole in the vacuum line to the wastegate.

I think that should answer your question. Sorry if i'm treating you like a noob (like me haha), just providing some back information.
 
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No when it comes to turbos I am a noob and this info is great thank you
 
I know what I'm doing next weekend now awesome thank you dsm team :)

The wastegate has 2 large openings. one goes to your manifold and the other is either rerouted into the downpipe (or other part of exhaust) or its released into atmosphere. That is called a Dump pipe or a Screamer pipe. some people do the screamer pipe because its easier instead of getting a custom fabricated downpipe.

Now for the tubes the top is for the boost controller and the bottom goes to the turbo. (I Think. Im not absolutley positive correct me if im wrong)
 
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