fmic and clutch install break in?

[gst96spyderman]

I have no idea where to post this. I have the clutch installed in car. I only drove it on and off lift and checked if it went into all gears. So no miles on it yet.

I am also getting the fmic installed. I wanted to know if I should put ANY boost on it to make sure that everything is working properly on the fmic and piping, or should I follow the 500 mile city driving break in rule, then find out about the fmic...

 

[1990dsmkid]

after you install the fmic do a blt and fix any leaks you find. Break in the clutch following the instructions giving to you then I would say you should be safe. After break in you could do another blt to check for any new leaks and go from there. This is what I would do myself

 

[Munkee]

For clutch I would say low RPMs shifting for the first 100 mi or so. After that drive normally (as in normal people normal, not our normal) w/ normal (not hard) shifting for a week or so. I have heard of some guys putting the car up on jack stands and giving it a few heat cycles. Assuming FWD not AWD of course.

As for IC i've never heard of a break in procedure. Like was said above clamp everything down tight and check for leaks, drive the car to warm up the pipes and check again for loose connections or leaks.

 

[T is for TURBO]

Just do a boost leak test after you install the FMIC. Then break the clutch in. As for breaking in the clutch, really all you have to remember is don't launch, don't slip the clutch, and don't slam threw the gears while going WOT. Once a clutch is fully engaged, you can roll on all the power you want.

 

[Paintballaa5]

What kind of disk do you have? If street disk, 300 mile break in is recommended. I just did this, and didn't boost at all until I got to about 250 miles. Then I slowly started adding more boost in small increments until 300. Just to be sure.

If 4 or 6 puck, I've read its best to just back out of the drive way and do a hard launch.

 

[gst96spyderman]

Once a clutch is fully engaged, you can roll on all the power you want.

Is this true or is it opinion? I was under the inpression that this should not be done. I'm at the 250-299fwhp range, guessing

Thanks for the clutch breakin methods, but I wasn't really asking in particular about that. Just stating that I have had the clutch recently installed along with the fmic. I will do the blt first, but wanted to know it it would be a bad idea building boost to see the benefits of this huge fmic install.

 

[T is for TURBO]

Mileage is really irrelevant, and I never understood why they measure the break procedure by mileage driven. I could install a brand new clutch and drive 300-500 miles down the freeway to meet the required mileage, but clutch would not be broken in. It's more to do with the number of heat cycles. With an full face disk you want to bed the disk into the friction surfaces of the pressure plate and flywheel. Lots of stop and go driving will speed this up. When I break in a clutch, I just drive around for a few days hitting up streets with lots of stop signs. But I certainly am not afraid to do a good strong pull or two while I'm breaking it in. I just avoid slipping the clutch, and high RPM shifts, and I never launch.

 

[Paintballaa5]

Mileage is really irrelevant, and I never understood why they measure the break procedure by mileage driven. I could install a brand new clutch and drive 300-500 miles down the freeway to meet the required mileage, but clutch would not be broken in. It's more to do with the number of heat cycles. With an full face disk you want to bed the disk into the friction surfaces of the pressure plate and flywheel. Lots of stop and go driving will speed this up. When I break in a clutch, I just drive around for a few days hitting up streets with lots of stop signs. But I certainly am not afraid to do a good strong pull or two while I'm breaking it in. I just avoid slipping the clutch, and high RPM shifts, and I never launch.

Sorry, I forgot to mention 300 miles of city driving. Stop and go. The milage is just a reference point. You want to engage/disengage it a lot, but with little stress. If you were worried about it enough to post a thread about it, I assumed you would want to get the right procedure.

Aa for the FMIC, just blt and your good to go.

 

[gst96spyderman]

Got it on the clutch. I was going to go down to Altanta and drive around 285 twice during rush hour. Spoke to the manufacture when I purchased and asked what is their recommended break in procedure. They say 500 miles, but I understand that it is more about engaging and disengaging the clutch, bc keeping it in gear for 500 miles won't do anything...

I am baffled by the conflict of information I have researched on breakin procedures for building boost while breaking in the clutch... Some say no, some say its okay. just polling this question now and seeing what the pros and cons

 

[T is for TURBO]

Personally I feel 500 miles is way overkill. And obviously it's not a good idea to try to accelerate from 40 to 75 at WOT in 4/5 gear as that is when your clutch will most likely slip. Also, HP isn't what causes a clutch to slip, it's when the torque exceeds the coefficient of friction between the pp/disk/flywheel when you have slippage.

I' have done several 3rd gear pulls at 18 psi with a Big T-28 on both organic disks and Kevlar disks during break in, and so far so good. But if you want to err on the side of caution, then take it easy. You can't "over break in" a clutch

I don't know if breaking in a clutch during rush hour would be a good idea, you do need the clutch to cool down between engagements. Hot Atlanta weather, plus heavy clutch usage might create too much heat. But I have no way of verifying that, just speculation.

I am baffled by the conflict of information I have researched on breakin procedures for building boost while breaking in the clutch... Some say no, some say its okay. just polling this question now and seeing what the pros and cons

Opinions are like assholes, everyone has one But really, there is a lot of conflicting info because there are a lot of different clutches, disk materials, sprung disks, un-sprung disks, puck style, full face, old school tech, new school tech. All of which are manufactured differently by different manufactures with different tolerance and different R&D.