Finally. Progress with my dsm. (Was slow)

[xarnyz]

I bought the car and having never ridden in a dsm before, I wasn't sure how fast it was supposed to go.. It seemed to idle fine, run fine, didn't have any leaks, but this did NOT feel like 200hp. I had other dsmer people look at it, they told me an auto gsx stock is probably about this slow... Well they were wrong.

I consider myself lucky. I dug around in the electrical lines a bit after reading about phantom knock and HMM!! There was plug that had part of the wire unconnected to the plug connector. So I just rewired them back together, and my car RIPS. Its odd, you think the computer would have thrown a CEL at least.

Anyway, some of you guys should check to make sure that wire is getting to that sensor. On the car side of the connector, the RED wire was disconnected. That leads to the offwhite-ish wire on my knock sensor. Only the black line was hooked up. I'm guessing that was ground. When I found this wire I thought it was too good to be true and thought perhaps it was just running as a disabled sensor since I saw no CEL, and not pulling timing. But it didn't turn out that way.

My symptoms were:
Power on the very first pull, all pulls after that felt like a ford escort


Cliffnotes:
My car was bought slow.
Pressed the search button on dsmtuners a lot of times (not the post button)
Went and dug around in desperation and found my knock sensor plug was unconnected only at the RED wire.
Fixed it.
car is fast.

Ive realized: These cars can be hard to upkeep, some give up and sell them, and some get to drive them. (I now have a new coolant leak)

 

[hellotbone]

Congrats on the fix. I applaud you for searching rather then posting and updating us with the problem and the fix for others to see. Well done.

 

[dwc4g63]

its good to see you found your own problem and solution, using this site..i cant even count the number of times this site has fixed my car. and as for the coolant leak..on a DSM something is always broken, as soon as you fix one problem another will occur, so your best bet is to keep fixin shit untill you get a problem that doesnt bother you that bad and then just leave it alone..

 

[xarnyz]

HA! yeah. I'm just gonna go get me some JB Weld. There is some bracket/clamp on the top of the downpipe that decided to cut into a metal coolant line going down to the filter assembly. No wonder all those dogs/cats/small children were chasing me down the street!

 

[zachakagoat]

HA! yeah. I'm just gonna go get me some JB Weld. There is some bracket/clamp on the top of the downpipe that decided to cut into a metal coolant line going down to the filter assembly. No wonder all those dogs/cats/small children were chasing me down the street!

Wow I had this same problem, did alittle searchin and didn't find anyone else with it really, I just took it off and had a guy at my dad's work weld it up for me now it is fine and dandy I did take off that damn bracket though that was causing the problem. You would be surprised how fast that line will empty your radiator

 

[xarnyz]

That bracket isn't there for any reason? They shoulda put a "This knife-edge towards coolant pipe" sticker on it.

 

[promiscuousman]

That bracket isn't there for any reason? They shoulda put a "This knife-edge towards coolant pipe" sticker on it.

The bracket is there to support the downpipe. It's not entirely neccessary, mine is not bolted in, but if you unbolt the turbo from the exhaust manifold it will rest most of its weight on the oil return tube. If you plan on taking the turbo/manifold off, make sure to be carefull of the oil return line.

 

[Romancer]

xarnyz...where did you see these wires?

 

[xarnyz]

xarnyz...where did you see these wires?

Basically it was a big clump of wires on the passenger side of the engine bay. I was looking for my knock sensor wire so I followed all wires that went to the back of my block (Under the intake manifold runners)