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excessive crankcase pressure

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1fast97gsx

20+ Year Contributor
4,517
17
Jul 6, 2003
Orland Park, Illinois
I really hate my car now. I plan on selling it VERY soon. :thumb: Just as I thought all the problems were worked out I ran into too much crankcase pressure problems. First the dipstick would pop out ... so I fixed that. Then it would leak out of the oil cap a little bit so I doubled up gaskets and cranked it down. Then it started leaking through the oil pan and a few other places where gaskets are. It seems it only happens when I really boost it. What controls crankcase pressure besides the pcv valve? I tried putting on a different one today .. but other than that I am totally clueless on how to keep these problems from coming up. I'm sick of stupid stuff like this breaking.
 
I'll buy your car =) Have you tried a compression test? Maybe your rings are totally fried, this would cause some really excessive crank case pressure.
 
sonicnofadz said:
I'll buy your car =) Have you tried a compression test? Maybe your rings are totally fried, this would cause some really excessive crank case pressure.

yea tested compression a few hours ago. 170-170-175-170. Engine has 800 miles on it and they are all new forged internals.
 
Take the tube coming of your valve cover (breather tube, transmission side) and blow into it. If you have difficulty, something is blocking it inside. Have you recently had the valve cover off, I would bet you have some sort of blasting media in the breather vent, was it bead blasted?

In addition, if you are running the line to the ground, you should remove the filter, it is only an obstruction. Be willing to bet one of the above fixes your problem.
 
ok I will try and blow into it .. I'll also try and ditch the fuel filter. Thanks for the help. Oh the valve cover was off but not bead blasted.
 
Well if I blow in it its sorta easy to blow at first and then it starts getting really hard. I can hear is hissing a little inside the head but as soon as I stop blowing into it it gets blown back out through that nipple. Is that normal or is something clogged? How would I fix it?
 
1fast97gsx said:
Well if I blow in it its sorta easy to blow at first and then it starts getting really hard. I can hear is hissing a little inside the head but as soon as I stop blowing into it it gets blown back out through that nipple. Is that normal or is something clogged? How would I fix it?

It's sounds like it is clogged and that is why you keep blowing seals, try again with the oil cap off and see if you still get resistance and hissing. If so, take the vavle cover off and investigate. You can pull the nipple out of the valve cover with a pair of plyers and see what is caught in there. You might have found your problem as this would cause seals to blow out. Let me know what you find out.
 
with the oil cap off it's easy to blow into and everything is good. I have the gaskets on the cap doubled up ... could this cause the problem???
 
No, your problem lies somewhere else. Not sure what is going on, try the other mod and see if that helps? Maybe these seals were not good in the first place? The dipsticks are known to blow out if old. The caps will leak if the seal is bad. The oil pan will leak if not tightned correctly or have a bad seal. You might just be experiencing assembley gremlins.
 
You just opened a big hole in your head with the cap off, so it would be easy....if it would have been hard to blow still, I would have said your breather was clogged.
 
I have had the same problem since i removed the balance shafts and replaced the front case gasket, oil filter gasket, and oil pan. I recently put the filter in between the intake, and i think that was part of the problem, but i didnt notice the J pipe was loose when I was under 20psi in third. Not good. Oil splashing eveywhere and the pan was leaking (sounds like the same place your leaking at 1fast97gsx). I have yet to find out what the hell is wrong, and i am still getting small leaks from the timing case area.

and all i wanted to do was a damn timing belt change :cry: :cry:
 
mitsugsx95 said:
I have had the same problem since i removed the balance shafts and replaced the front case gasket, oil filter gasket, and oil pan. I recently put the filter in between the intake, and i think that was part of the problem, but i didnt notice the J pipe was loose when I was under 20psi in third. Not good. Oil splashing eveywhere and the pan was leaking (sounds like the same place your leaking at 1fast97gsx). I have yet to find out what the hell is wrong, and i am still getting small leaks from the timing case area.

and all i wanted to do was a damn timing belt change :cry: :cry:


Yea sounds similar to my problem ... I don't have a J pipe anymore but it seems like everytime I fix 1 leak then I get another 1 somewhere else. This is why I assumed it was a crankcase pressure problem just building up too much pressure somewhere and then leaking out at the weakest point. Oh well maybe I'm ok after changing the pcv valve and getting rid of that filter on the line running to the ground.
 
your getting on it.. and the new block only has 800 miles on it right now??

are you stupid or something?
 
Wobble said:
your getting on it.. and the new block only has 800 miles on it right now??

are you stupid or something?

Um... a properly built motor can be beaten straight out of the box. Most built motors are not going to see 100,000 miles.

I know countless people who build motors and take them to the track the next week with only a few hundred miles.

No damage done.
 
Wobble said:
your getting on it.. and the new block only has 800 miles on it right now??

are you stupid or something?

Are you stupid? Motors break in in the first 5-10 minutes. This isn't 20 years ago where there is a real "break in". Oh yea .. this is a motor with forged internals, not one to daily drive and not race. :rolleyes:
 
so.. the rings dont need to wear in and seat? and all that good stuff.. just abuse the shit out of it right out of the box huh??

yea.. you go right ahead and do that..
 
piston rings seat within the first 20 or so seconds the motor is started. There are certain things you need to do first time of startup and then you can practically race the car the next day. Do a search wobble, i'm too lazy to do it for you :p . There are some good threads about this on dsmtalk as well.
 
Black95TSIawd said:
piston rings seat within the first 20 or so seconds the motor is started. There are certain things you need to do first time of startup and then you can practically race the car the next day. Do a search wobble, i'm too lazy to do it for you :p . There are some good threads about this on dsmtalk as well.

Thank you! I get so irritated when people that have no clue what they are talking about just post out of their ass and think they are right. Thanks for backing me up here. :thumb:
 
well.. your right i guess.. I need to call slowboy racing and Buschur racing and tell them they are stupid for telling people to let their blocks wear in for 1000 miles and all the loco stuff that makes perfect sense..

I mean.. sure Slowboy and Buschur racing tell you to run up to 1000 miles and change the oil a few times to seat the rings fully and get any debris out of the oil before you really start romping it..

but hey .. they are just performance shops who build race blocks for a living.. you guys are on a car forum.. so you MUST know better..

maby its just a secret.. :shhh:


BTW, ill never drive the piss out of a motor with less than 1500 miles on it.. it never has and never will make sense to me..

if im wrong.. it doesent matter.. if you are.. your ####ED
 
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