Every guy has this problem...right?

[bosljeff]

Just check and make sure the marks line up first but if they dont, you will need to pull the belt off to fix it safely.

Sorry, I was writing my post when you posted this, so I obviously don't have near as many questions now.

 

[bosljeff]

What do you think?

 

[4SFED4]

Your intake cam needs to come down(tward the crank) a tooth. The intake mark should be almost level with the deck and the exhaust mark just slightly above it.

 

[bosljeff]

Your intake cam needs to come down(tward the crank) a tooth. The intake mark should be almost level with the deck and the exhaust mark just slightly above it.

So (to be very elementary) the one on the right needs to rotate about 1 tooth towards the left, and the one on the left needs to rotate about 1 tooth to the right? What is the deck (I assume the head/valve cover 'line')?

So, could that 1 tooth cause idle problems, rough idle, really low vacuum (6-10 mm hg), and much more?

 

[4SFED4]

Its very possible to cause idle problems, depending on how the base timing is set at the cam sensor vs the cam posiitons. The idle can be affected by advancing or retarding the cams to far with adjustable cam gears. On tooth is roughly 10deg adv or ret. In the photo the intake cam is retarded.

The exhaust cam is in correct , but the intake needs to be moved one tooth to the left. The deck is reffering to the surface the of the block the cylinder head bolts to, also the valve cover/head line is level with the deck so it is another good referance point.

 

[bosljeff]

Have you pulled the upper timing cover off and checked the cam timing? If you have one or both cams off 1-2 teeth, it will cause low vac at idle, poor running, choppy idle, idle surge, etc,etc. Check it out and see if the marks line up. If they dont, that could be all of your problems.

Well, I finally did the screwdriver test where you unscrew that screw (that doesn't seem to be there for anything) on the back of the oil pan and stick a screwdriver in it. If you can stick about 2.4" in, your golden, if not, your not happy.

Well, the screwdriver hardly went in at all, so my balance shaft or whatever is "out of phase". I'd like to hope that I fix this, re-time my car and all will be cured.

However, while doing this, I noticed my drive belts were chewed up as a result of my crankwheel pulley thing had seperated into 2 pieces after all these years causing massive in and out movement with the crank pulley, thusly tearing up my belts...Damn! So now I have to order from Satan a new crank pulley assembly (Did you know it was two pieces?).

Thanks for all the help.

 

[mirkoelek]

Have you done any mods like intake pipe or hacking the mas? I have seen some hit fc with the stock mas and just a 3" intake pipe and k&n filter with the 14b@16-17 psi. Usually an easy fix(or band aid) would be to remove the lower hc from the mas. This in turn flows more unmetered air which effectively raises fc but the down side is that the car runs leaner. Most dsms will run better with a leaner than stock a/f ratio but a few have ran slower due to knock and pulled timing.

How are you doing that "hacking of the mas", actually what is the "mas"........sounds like a good thing to modify

 

[blcknspo0ln]

MAS is the mass air sensor..

hacking the mass air sensor would be taking out the little honeycombs inside of it. bad on a 2g, beneficial on a 1g

 

[mirkoelek]

MAS is the mass air sensor..

hacking the mass air sensor would be taking out the little honeycombs inside of it. bad on a 2g, beneficial on a 1g

thanks man, so i'm not gonna touch that

 

[BrokenTsi]

stock dsm's run about a 15.0 anyways.

-you need exhaust
-you need to do a lot of maintenance on your car
-removing emmissions makes it a lot easier to prevent boost leaks. I did all of them and my car runs absolutely perfect.

 

[BrokenTsi]

oh yeah, and dont do that low boost launch. High boost is where the power is at. Nice slip launch and full boost and a killer 60ft time should get you down to low low 14's. I remember when I ran a 13.8 on just exhaust, freemods, a good clutch, and 15psi. I trapped at 100mph with a 1.8 60ft.

 

[jdm4g63]

I know that money can be an issue but you have gone too far to have no means of a/f control. SafcII is on ebay brand new for 250 shipped. I thought I saw that you already have a datalogger so if you get the safc you're in business.

However as stated earlier you have to make sure that the basic maintenence is done. Look in the near future to upgrade to larger injectors.

Be patient and have fun.