*Electrical Guru's* gutted interior - front turn and parking lights wont work!?!

[SnowBird]

Its a 90 AWD. All fuses and relays are good. As stated I gutted the interior and my front parking and turn signals wont work, and my headlights wont go down. I had similiar problem with my dash lights and found that I had to GROUND my dimmer on the radio connector.

I was wondering if there is something else that needs to be ground for the turn and parking lights to work? I replaced the relay by the fuse box under the dash and still no luck. Im also wondering if my "pop-up" button on the dash was also pushed in when I ditched the dash, along with the hazzard switch. Just curious if any of these need to be grounded to complete a circuit or something. Any help is appreciated, thanks.

 

[turbosax2]

I know on a 2g if the switch for the hazard lights is NOT plugged in, the turn signals will NOT work. The same might be true for a 1g.

 

[SnowBird]

I know on a 2g if the switch for the hazard lights is NOT plugged in, the turn signals will NOT work. The same might be true for a 1g.

I was afraid of that, I have no clue what the connector looks like now, and I was wondering if I grounded the connector it would think its plugged in.

 

[kiwidog]

I had my center console out and needed to run to a shop to get some stuff for my stereo install and on the way there the turn signals and the dash lights wouldn't work or come on. Once I got done with the install and put it all back together it worked fine, so I'm pretty sure it has to do with the connector and the hazard button like turbosax said.

 

[SnowBird]

Im gonna go to the junk yard tomorrow and see if I can get the pop up light switch and hazzard light switch to see if that works. Thanks.

 

[90laserRSfwd]

Make sure when you find the problem that you post it. It's always nice when others search for a problem to find a thread of someone thats had similar problem and they have posted a way to fix it. Best of luck man...

 

[BoostedTalonTS]

Its a 90 AWD. All fuses and relays are good. As stated I gutted the interior and my front parking and turn signals wont work, and my headlights wont go down. I had similiar problem with my dash lights and found that I had to GROUND my dimmer on the radio connector.

I was wondering if there is something else that needs to be ground for the turn and parking lights to work? I replaced the relay by the fuse box under the dash and still no luck. Im also wondering if my "pop-up" button on the dash was also pushed in when I ditched the dash, along with the hazzard switch. Just curious if any of these need to be grounded to complete a circuit or something. Any help is appreciated, thanks.

BTW, You DO NOT want to ground the dimmer OR illumination lead on the radio harness!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

-That might just be what's causing your troubles as that is the rheostat's dimmer output wire, NOT a ground input!

 

[SnowBird]

BTW, You DO NOT want to ground the dimmer OR illumination lead on the radio harness!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

-That might just be what's causing your troubles as that is the rheostat's dimmer output wire, NOT a ground input!

This was a problem before I grounded the dimmer, grounding the dimmer didnt cause any problems but it fixed my dash lights. I just followed what other threads told me to do. Is there something different I should do?

 

[BoostedTalonTS]

from the sounds of it, you have probably fried the rheostat, the headlamp switch, or some of the illumination circuit's wire.

Verify that all fuses are ok first.

Do you have an ohm meter to use to test switches? -I'd start there by testing continuity of the headlamp (at steering colum), headlamp up/down, and rheostat switches (left of steering colum on the dash bezle).-If you have a manual for your car, most of them include what pins to check for continuity on each of the various switches. -Just make sure that your's perform EXACTLY as they do in the manual, otherwise the switch is probably toast.

If the switches all check out ok then I'd start tracing wires in the harness (again, using the ohm meter set to continuity) to make sure that you don't have any breaches within the wireharness. I'd pay close attention to the GRN/WHT & BLK/YEL wires... The GRN/WHT is the illumination circuit that SHOULD show 12v+ when the parking lights are turned on. The BLK/YEL will show EITHER ground or 12v+ (depending on the rheostat's position) when working properly.

Good Luck

 

[SnowBird]

Yeah, I have a multimeter (Im a newb to electrical diagnosis so I bought one that has TOO many options, so for me its hard to use), I guess its time to do it the hard way. I hate electrical problems.

Oh, and by the way, I dont have a dimmer switch anymore anyways, my interior consists of a driver seat, steering wheel, and instrument cluster zip strapped to crash beam. I really cant think of anything that has happened since I rigged up the dash lights like that. The headlights and turn/front parking lights all happened once I scrapped the dash.

I can see the turn signals not working because of the hazzard switch missing, and the headlights not going down because of the pop up switch missing, but the front parking lights has me scratching my head.

 

[SnowBird]

PROBLEM SOLVED. Installed hazzard switch, hazzard lights dont work but the turn signals do and thats all I care about. Pop up light switch installed, lights go up and down, except the passenger side one goes up but not down, dont know what that could be but its a start.