Electrical and starter problems, I suspect?

[SmalltownDSMer]

Swung by Ace this morning to grab some hardware, upon trying to leave the GS-X would not start.
The car was getting power, but I could not here the starter cranking.

I had a buddy come help me push start it which got the car started but died a few moments later. Pushed it again and took off trying to make it home. On the short drive home, my tach, speedo, stereo and defi gauges all stopped working, I barely got into boost and it hesitated and backfired horribly.

Made it home, once again died and coasted into the parking spot, but I smell nothing burnt, my battery connections look fine.

Any ideas?

Thanks, Jayson

 

[steve]

Check the battery voltage then check the voltage at the alternator stud, both while the car is off.
If the voltage at the battery is less than 12v that might explain the things turning off.
If there isn't any voltage at the alternator stud the alternator fuse is blown.

If you see voltage at both, charge the battery up and if it the voltage doesn't get over 14.4v the battery is likely bad. Try and start the car and measure the voltage at the battery again with the car running. If it's less than 13.6v the alternator isn't charging.

 

[SmalltownDSMer]

Thanks for the fast reply steve. I'll get to checkin and update later.

Thanks, Jayson

 

[SmalltownDSMer]

Steve- Thank you for the extremely fast and accurate response!
It was indeed my battery! Swapped it out and we are good to go.
One other question, While driving, my E-brake light and battery light are both lit. Any ideas?

Thanks again, Jayson

 

[steve]

You'll have to check but I think the having both the brake and battery light on at the same time means the alternator isn't working on a 2G. Maybe it's the radiator and battery light but it's something like that.

 

[SmalltownDSMer]

Could it be the alternator fuse, or the actual alternator? And I guess to check, Do what you told me above?

Thanks, Jayson

 

[steve]

Either but the fuse is the first thing to check. Use a meter, you can't always see that they are blown.
The test where you measure the voltage at the alternator B+ stud with the car off will verify the fuse.

It's connected to the alternator fuse and then to the battery. So it should always have at least battery voltage on it and when the alternator makes more voltage than the battery supplies it starts charging the battery.

Also search for posts on the subject. I don't own a 2G and some of the little details like this escape me since I don't live with one on a day to day basis.

 

[SmalltownDSMer]

Thanks for the very helpful info steve. I just had the alternator checked and it was less than 13.0 volts on the charging system, so I am going to replace the alternator.

Thanks again, Jayson

 

[SmalltownDSMer]

Parts Bin - Auto Parts and Accessories Catalog - alternator - Mitsubishi Alternator

I'm looking at the NSA one for 124.00. As far as I can see it's the right one. Anybody see something I missed?

Apparently it didn't save the exact link, you have to select the year 97, than eclipse. Thanks for checking!

Thanks, Jayson

 

[steve]

Thanks for the very helpful info steve. I just had the alternator checked and it was less than 13.0 volts on the charging system, so I am going to replace the alternator.

Thanks again, Jayson

What was the actual voltage?

2G Alternators can be switched on and off by the ECU depending on the load and system voltage.

Was it tested in the car or on a machine?

 

[SmalltownDSMer]

12.8-12.9. Tested in the car at Autozone.

Thanks, Jayson

 

[steve]

Did they have you turn the lights and blower motor on to see what happens under an electrical load.
12.8-12.9 means that that battery had been charged (it will be below 12.6v when it's discharged/ing) and so the ECU might have the alternator off at the time since it didn't need it running.

 

[SmalltownDSMer]

No they did not have me do that. I just put a new battery in on sat and this is only the second time I have driven it since then, and it was just to work and back.
I just looked at my TT and it was reading 11.5-11.6.

Thanks, Jayson

 

[L0ckett]

Yes, just for future reference, if the battery, brake, and coolant light come on at the same time that means the alternator is going out. Trust me, I found that out the hard way .

 

[SmalltownDSMer]

On the negative battery terminal, If the wire that gets squeezed inside of the clamp that goes around the actual terminal was dirty, could that be a cause of this?

Steve, I just started the car ran the A/C and headlights and it dropped the voltage to 10.8 so my TT says.

Lockett- My coolant light is not on tho, Does it mean something significant if just the battery and brake light are on?

Thanks, Jayson

 

[steve]

So did you ever test the alternator fuse? It's clear that you not charging.

 

[SmalltownDSMer]

Finally swapped out the alternator today! She's back to charging and we have good voltage!!

Thanks for all of your help Steve!

Thanks, Jayson

 

[steve]

Good News.