The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

EGT TRE probe drilling question

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

dzolcali

15+ Year Contributor
146
0
Apr 8, 2005
Charlotte, North Carolina
I got all the things I need, which for those of you who don't know

The TRE probe I have (I'm thinkng they are all the same diameter/threading) takes a
-R drill
-1/8 27 tapered pipe tap

and I also have a stepped drill bit for the heat shield cover.

Now here is my issues before I start drilling into the exhaust manifold.

I have a couple different sized bits to step the hole up to the size of the R drill bit. However I'm very very skeptical. I have read to let the car idle, drill a hole, and let the shavings go through the exhaust, etc...

now I'm seriously skeptical about drilling a hole and letting shavings go into my turbo. is there possibilities of this effing up my turbo fins and so forth?

I really need input from people who self installed these TRE probes and also maybe some qaulified mechanics that could give me a thumbs up on this before I go about it, I really can't afford buying a new turbo but I also really don't want a gauge that is useless in my gauge pod.

thanks for any input!
 
It's obviously not good for your car, but there are ways you can make it less bad on the turbo. On my car, if I ever have to drill anything, I remove the part. If you were me, you would just look at this as an excuse to take all your manifold and turbo bolts off and replace them!
 
How hard is it to remove a manifold and turbo bolts..and what all does it involve, like do I have to buy new gaskets or anything crazy like that?

maybe I should buy a ported 2g manifold tap it, and then have a shop install it?

maybe that would be a good idea I dunno...how hard seriously is it to take that manifold out thats all I am wondering.

let me know guys!
peace
 
The reason you turn the car on when drilling is not to have the shaving go through the exhaust, but the exact opposite, so they DO NOT go through the exhaust. The exhaust pressure will shoot the shavings up before they fall into the manifold.

There is no reason to take the mani off unless you plan on upgrading or fixing another problem. Just turn the car on drill the hole SLOWLY and when tapping the hole put grease on the tap to get those shaving to stick, as well as tapping it while the car is on.

I did mine this way and it has worked perfect ever since.
 
The pressure of the exhaust will push the shavings out the hold you are drilling or tapping. Also like mentioned above put a bunch of grease on the tap so the shavings stick to it.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

  • For sale 4G63 Forge Motorsports BOV
    Original Forge Motorsports bov. Adjustable with over 80 clicks on the dial. Nice to use for...
    • Galant665
    • Updated:
  • Wanted 1g 1991 Black Cherry Eagle Talon
    5-speed
    • bamatalon
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale Misc Left Over Parts
    Hello, I have a few left over parts for sale, these do not include shipping, please pm me for a...
    • r3dmak
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale Alpha Injection Clinic 2200cc for 4G63 DSM/EVO
    I have a set of Alpha Injection Clinic 2200cc high z injectors for DSM/EVO. I am stepping up to...
    • spoolinpos
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • Wanted WTB 2g half rad
    ISO of a 2g koyo half rad or something equivalent.
    • Michael Wucher
    • Updated:
    • Expires
Back
Top