Ebay electric boost controller

[sniver]

Has anybody used This boost controller? I have not seen anything posted about it during my search. Its seems like a larger version of our stock setup. It varies between stock and a user selected value, that can be set in car with a dial. the dial changes the frequency (&boost) like our stock ones. Would this work well?


Item # is 330300604379

 

[Defiant]

Eh, I suppose. But why do you want to adjust your boost, to pick where the car's going to blow up?

Set the maximum boost you want, and adjust it with the skinny pedal on the right.

It's a money-wasting gimmick you have no need for.

 

[gorf]

Like Defiant said. If you are adjusting your boost you need some way to change the fuel delivery also. Just turning a knob will screw your present tune and you will have to re-tune for the new setting.

Do some research IMO a better solution is to use an old vacuum solenoid and only have two boost levels, at least then you would know what the high boost level is and where to set your safc/dsmlink/etc.

 

[cbrfrenzie]

I would be interested to see the results of this product. Why not tune for your high boost setting, then with the controller off driver around on stock boost, only using your set max when you need it. That way your tune is spot on for your max boost setting.

 

[Grescht]

If this is something you want, It would be cool. A manual Dual stage might be a bit more reliable because you ARE buying off ebay. you don't want it to malfunction and have crazy boost spike.

but yeah, my friends S15 (it's real, right hand drive) has an electric dual stage controller that works really well. He tuned for 14psi and runs 7 on a daily basis.

 

[me612]

Just turning a knob will screw your present tune and you will have to re-tune for the new setting.
.

On a MAS metered setup, your tune should remain the same even when you raise the boost. The MAS recognizes more airflow, and adds more fuel to compensate. Retuning should not be necessary if all you did was raise your boost level some.

On the other hand, with a Speed Density setup you very well may need to retune.

 

[sniver]

As long as long as you have tuned up to where your max boost is the tune would be fine with speed density.
I was mainly interested in using a dual stage boost controller and came across this.I'm thinking along the lines of cbrfrenzie

Gorf; how does a dialable ebc change tune and a dual stage mbc does not? You contradicted yourself there. I'm running dsmap. At a set load, and pressure the motor is x efficient. That is all that it cares about.

A mbc seems to cost 50-70 anyways so price isn't even that different.


Thanks for all the feedback guys

 

[dsmfa9nutter]

I wouldn't trust my engine to an ebay ebc that plugs into my cigarette lighter. Either spend the money on a known/trusted EBC or stick with a $20 nxs mbc.

 

[jeremylee_7]

If you want an easy and affordable way to switch between stock and your preset boost you can do what i did, take your mbc (I used the turboxs hpbc) and set it for your max boost, then use the stock bcs and wire it to a toggle switch in the car (plus power and ground of course).
A write-up on how to do this is in the tech articles here http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...0-switchable-high-low-boost-instructions.html

 

[1bad92awd]

Personally I have had no luck with Ebay mbcs. I first purchased a dual stage from Dejon Tool which when it worked was really nice. After that broke I bought a $10 cheap one off of Ebay which never worked for me. Now I'm going to use the Hallman Pro. Thats just my experience.

I also second me612's statement. Just raising the boost, you will maybe bump it up from something like 11.5 psi to no more than 16 or 17 psi which with a MAS setup, the computer will adjust its settings accordingly.

 

[turboglenn]

I honestly made a way longer in depth argument about why i love and think in car variable boost is one of the best features you can have but tuning tools came into context and i got carried away, defiant, i won't be offended if you delte it, but i couldn't erase if after typing the whole damn thing in my tired slighly buzzed from my 5th beer and only one eye opened state ...So.....

And to be on Topic... The cigarette lighter part is the biggest joke i've seen in a long time, BUT I think that' s adecent little controller but you could build you're own cheaper and the price isn't horrible either, you might have to pay damn near 50 bucks just for the solenoid valve if you dont' know where to look, or just get raped because you'r retail when buying the thing.

TO start with the concept is simple, just a variable frequency driven pneumatic valve. The valve is the same type that I use with stand alone installs when using them to control the boost and even the idle on some custom TB and manifold setups. You can build the circuit yourself if you like to solder. There's Tons of free simple schematics out there on the 'net and the parts are cheap, But everything cool you can build usually has at least 3 parts you gotta order from Digi-Key becuase radio shack won't have the higher PIV rating or be the right specs, just something close half the time.


As for adjusting boost... if you have complete control you can map every single cell to where once you've tuned up to your maximum boost (starting from your lowest), no matter what the boost level is set at, the ECU will cross reference load, RPM..TPS for limited reasons, and then all the sensor that help trim these values... Once you've completely mapped your system there's nothing wrong with or even uncommon about changing the boost level.

I guess that is going to get off topic and go into the the main reasons i hate to use anything to tune where i can't set the complete VE/FUEL map (and timing), The lack of these amounts of control is why i can't justify putting DSMlink on a car when it's for ME and don't get me wrong i think DSMlink IS A GREAT system and 80-85 % of people don't need any more than just being able to be right when wide open at the boost they've decided to run. BUt there's people like me who are on the never ending quest for the perfect tune and go nuts if the car acts funny in a certain area or knocks at "X" boost on "X" fuel, i want it all dead nuts on!

With a stand alone a proper tune and an EBC in your car: you can be running next to that 08 vette, and if you're not pulling you reach down turn up the knob and walk off from him if you've got it in the car ultimately. Plus with stand alones you can even make you're own coolant, air temp, battery voltage and many other trimmings to the base injector value to make it have the correct injection time (for correct AFR's) for the given enviroment.. This is very hard to do with anything less, and causes issues in the cold warmup AFR's the weather can drasticly change your tune and AFR because MOST of them (meaning piggybacked stock ECU's - no particular brand intended) just use the stock values and the learngin cycle advantage of the factory ECU can compensate in most cases enough to make the person so happy when they gun it to forget all about it being a bi*** to drive in certan conditions or having to change their "maps" to up the boost for the night.

I'm FWD so i regularly run a lower boost in 1st and 2nd gear (and third in the cold) because at 30psi on E85 wth high timng and you've only got the 2 front tires ( even when they're slicks) for grip you're dead in the water if you've got a large turbo (especially one that surges when anything less than WOT) and you're feathering the gas on street tires. so I run the base spring of 15psi through first and 2nd, then hit between 25 and 31psi if i feel i need it or end up needing it right away i can just "turn the knob" The part throttle conditions of feathering the gas is another palce where large injectors combined with piggy backed ECU's can be WAY off with no way to change it with out sacrificing parts of your "base/cruise" and "WOT" that you have access to

Most newer systems even have "on the fly" dual map capabilities, and capable of having knobs (or little pots) used for in car global fuel and ignition trimming as well, meaning i can pull up to a pump after running a tank of 91 oct and fill up with E85 and just flip the switch when i start the car, then to compensate for the mix you can trim it to a correct enough position that your closed loop and trim values will take care of the rest, no laptop, datalogging or hoping you've got the right mix once you've properly tune the ECU.

i do want to state that a lot of this only really applies to having VERY large injectors and trying to get a perfect and reliable daily driver tune from a way more than "street setup", I do think DSMlink is one of the bst DSM setups you can get for a DSM, but it's proprietary (only DSM) and that's a big turn off for me, but i LOVE some of the features it has, KNOCK LIGHT ..HA that's awesome and being able to turn the fuel pump on with a mouse click is cool and some of it' other add on as well.

But if you want to learn to remap a stock ECU , and i mean like getting into it's tables and changing the values, then you can REALLY get the some control for your setup. Most factory ECU's have more capabilities, functions and outputs than the most expensive stand alone EMS's on the market, but if you want to learn the ECU code and the system is versatile enough you can do just about anything with it. YOu should see what some guys were doing with old GM fuel injection ECU's several years back.. on everything from twin turbo V8 rods to import and turbo motorcycle setups and running strong with them okay i'm done... good night