SpYYderT
15+ Year Contributor
- 79
- 0
- Oct 18, 2005
-
Utica,
New York
Hey, I'm new to DSM motors, so go easy on me. My current motor building experience is limited to Hondas, and i also have a N/T beater eclipse. I am building a 96 GS-T spyder, for mainly show purposes and some daily driving. I am mechanically able so i can do most of the work myself, and i would like to stay on a reasonable budget.
I purchased a 7-bolt, with FWD tranny. I was planning on doing a complete gasket kit, headgasket, etc. I took the head off and found some wear on cyl. 3's walls, there is one scrape in perticular you can catch with your finger tip, which i have looked into and it will need to be honed. This motor is obviously going to need some work and some money put into it.
Now this car is going to be mainly a daily driven street type of vehicle, and its a convertible. I have no current plans of building anything like a track monster. I am looking for about 300 HP, streetable, and a livable daily driver. I have heard about the dreaded crank walk, and most people have told me to get a six-bolt while the motor is out.
I have seen in other threads the six bolt swap, and using 2g pistons on a 1g bottom end. What degree of difficulty am i looking at? Am i correct to assume i can purchase a six bolt block ( i have access to one for cheap.), remove the balance shafts, have a six-bolt crank balanced, use the bigger six bolt rods, and 2g pistons with new rings, have my 2g head ported and planed and put cams into it, use a 1st gen intake mani, and run a 14B with some degree of reliablity? Can i use my current transmission, axles, etc. or does that all have to be ditched?
What i currently have:
-96 GS-T spyder chassis with complete wiring harness
-complete 7-bolt disassembed
-FWD 7 bolt transmission
-stock 2g manifolds, piping, turbo, MAS
-2g complete gasket kit
-2g brand new axels
-Balance shaft elimination kit
-shift linkage, clutch assembly, complete ABS system
I want to retain power steering, don't want A/C.
let me know what is going to be the best route to go, and what parts i should get and what parts i should ditch. thank you in advance anyone that helps.
I purchased a 7-bolt, with FWD tranny. I was planning on doing a complete gasket kit, headgasket, etc. I took the head off and found some wear on cyl. 3's walls, there is one scrape in perticular you can catch with your finger tip, which i have looked into and it will need to be honed. This motor is obviously going to need some work and some money put into it.
Now this car is going to be mainly a daily driven street type of vehicle, and its a convertible. I have no current plans of building anything like a track monster. I am looking for about 300 HP, streetable, and a livable daily driver. I have heard about the dreaded crank walk, and most people have told me to get a six-bolt while the motor is out.
I have seen in other threads the six bolt swap, and using 2g pistons on a 1g bottom end. What degree of difficulty am i looking at? Am i correct to assume i can purchase a six bolt block ( i have access to one for cheap.), remove the balance shafts, have a six-bolt crank balanced, use the bigger six bolt rods, and 2g pistons with new rings, have my 2g head ported and planed and put cams into it, use a 1st gen intake mani, and run a 14B with some degree of reliablity? Can i use my current transmission, axles, etc. or does that all have to be ditched?
What i currently have:
-96 GS-T spyder chassis with complete wiring harness
-complete 7-bolt disassembed
-FWD 7 bolt transmission
-stock 2g manifolds, piping, turbo, MAS
-2g complete gasket kit
-2g brand new axels
-Balance shaft elimination kit
-shift linkage, clutch assembly, complete ABS system
I want to retain power steering, don't want A/C.
let me know what is going to be the best route to go, and what parts i should get and what parts i should ditch. thank you in advance anyone that helps.
