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Drivetrain Broke at the Track

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T9S1i

15+ Year Contributor
1,869
9
Dec 16, 2004
San Francisco, California
So there i was sitting at the staging lanes, 5 races ago, Joel's DSM blew off the oil filter and spewed oil all over the track, track cleaned it up, OK now its my turn to race, i stage my car floor the gas, studderbox at 5500rpm, i start to slip the clutch (slightly faster than usual) and right when the clutch is let out WHACK!!!!!!!! Oh shit i think to myself and let out and short shift to second gear. That netted me a 26.4@40 mph.... just cruisin down the track.

Damn i think to myself, so i come back around, get my timeslip, dont really care what it says because i didnt race that time. I finally track down dave who was helping Joe fix his car and he came over and didnt see any of my race since he was helping joel, so i described to him what happened and he says the stock (193K) 3-bolt has probably died on me. So we get under the car, start grabbing axels and shaking stuff to check for obvious breaks or excessive freeplay...nothing really checks out. So we decide to do a short roll on wot in 1st gear just to see if something breaks then. Nothing really happens except i spun the front wheels. ( i do have a welded diff in the car) So we thought the car would be ok to drive a while since nothing broke under 15psi. We went and helped Joel put his car on his trailer (smart guy for bringing a trailer when racing a dsm!).

Dave, joel, you missed this part.
SO i say peace out to Dave and Joel. Leave infineon, easy on the throttle, easy ..... I get to the stoplight on 37 westbound towards 101, (about 1 1/2 mile away from the track)leave the stoplight cruise, get about 1/4 mile and feel this weird vibration, that turns into a wobble, that turns into a tap tap tap, then turns into a thunk thunk thunk, by this time ive crusied off the road and am coasting very slowly in neutral with the clutch in. Call my Alstate motor club whatever towing service, nobody in the area wants to tow somebody to SF, so a towing company from SF had to come all the way up to get me and an hour later im riding home on the flatbed.

SO something in the drivetrain broke. IT honestly sounds like its coming from the driveshaft carrier bearrings (i think thats what they are called) if not the T-case area. The car still drives and rolls, but anything over like 3mph i get that thump thump thump. Which sounds almost like a wobbling driveshaft, becasue something has to rotate all the way around for the thump to happen. Its sounds like its coming from the same place where you get the thump thump thump on a hard launch from the driveshaft carrier bearrings (that i never fixed the thump) which is right at or behind the front seats, under the car. Hopefully its just those bearrings, but if its the t-case or rear end, im royally F'd for a little while because im broke as hell.

Im going to go out soon and check out the car since it was dark and on the side of the highway last night. Wish me luck folks, if anyone knows specific things to check to rule different things in the drivetrain out let me know. I thought id start with the wobble check again, possibly jack up the rear end and try to rotate the wheels, then if im still stumped i'll start draining things and see if i find any metal shaving.

Any help/experiences/ideas/ thoughts on things to check are welcomed and appreciated.

happy boostin
 
ok so i went out and took a look at it, the rear drivers side axel broke. The splines brok off into my 3-bolt lsd. My mechanic buddy said its hard to get this out but it is possible, so im considering fixing it, but i dont think its worth it on a 3-bolt. He has like 2 or 3 spare 3-bolt non lsd's laying around that he said he would let me have for free that i can just slap in the car, but will they work in a car that came equipped with a 3-bolt lsd? is it worth it to "downgrade" to a non-lsd 3-bolt. I know everyone is going to say jsut get a 4-bolt, but im out of a job at the time and broke as hell.... a free non lsd 3-bolt sounds good right now.... esp the free part.

If i had the money id upgrade to a 4-bolt, but i dont unless someone has a good deal on one (pm me please... i'll need the wheel hub side as well since im converting from a 3-bolt)

So my questions are:
Will a non lsd 3-bolt bolt in and work fine in a car that was originally equipped with a lsd 3-bolt?

Is it worth it to do all this work do "downgrade" from a lsd rear end?

Will it be compatible with my welded diff? (will the welded diff hurt the non lsd more than the lsd or vice versa?)

Does anyone have a 4-bolt rear complete with everything for sale? (send me a pm)

Thanks
Danny
 
Well you can do two things.

1) Get the free non-lsd rear diff, but then you will need to get non-lsd rear axles. Sorry, but they are not the same.

2) Replace the one axle that broke and clean out your old diff. It's relatively easy. Drop the other axle. Drop the rear diff. Bang out the broken off peice in the direction it went in. Take off the rear diff cover, clean the guts, put it all back together. Drive on.


BTW Shame on you for racing your car when you don't have a job. Hopefully this wasn't your DD
 
Ha... shame on me!? All this free time with no job, why not go racing?! And ever since my D/D died on me the talon is my D/D..... its cool, i have a bike and my parents and sisters cars to borrow when i really need a car. Its not like i need to be at work or anything! LOL :sneaky:


Well F all that 3-bolt business if i have to change the axels. I found a 4-bolt locally with everything i need for $350. Im probably going to hop on that and put it in myself. Only 120k on it. IT'll be a fun project for school (i go to community college for auto mechanics so i have access to lifts, every tool i need, and a bunch of clever instructors to help me). Yeah i have to go 4-bolt. I tend to not like breaking a part and replacing it with something weaker... always gotta upgrade.

Thanks for the help and input guys. I'll update when i have the car on the road again (hopefully by wednesday).
 
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