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Do I have the proper plugs?

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mitsumikey

15+ Year Contributor
431
32
Mar 18, 2007
Windsor, ON, Canada
I did some reading on plugs and it doesn't so much answer my question. I bought NGK BPR7ES a bit ago and never put them in. Since then I put on a turboback, and the car had a K&N air filter on it already. I got gauges in, and now I'm making 15psi. The rest of the car is stock, besides CF hood, and turbotimer. Completely stock engine...
So I read stock should run the 6's. If I'm making 15psi instead of 12 ish should I find some 6's instead, or use the 7's? I want to do this soon because I believe I may be getting misfire at WOT. So I want to see if this fixes the problem, or else I gotta start playing around with the fuel pump...
Edit: I forgot about the NGK wires, NGK wires are on the car now too.
 
blcknspo0ln said:
Also, don't use those silly ramp spark plug gappers. Buy yourself a nice feeler gauge set (<$10) and get a consistent gap every time.

I am looking to buy a gapper. Do you have a link of the nicer feeler gauge set or do they sell them at auto shops too? Thanks

Jason

EDIT: IS THIS WHAT YOU ARE TALKING ABOUT? GAPPER AND FEELER GAUGE
 
I personally prefer the blade type like this...
KD Tools 162 - Spark Plug Gauge Blade Type .051 to .635in.

However, there is a wire type:
KD Tools 165 - Spark Plug Gauge Wire Type .015 to .045in.

Both work well, just depends on what you prefer.

It's also nice to have the electrode "spreader" on the tool as well (similar to what you see on the wire version).


But definitely yes...DO NOT get this kind:
K Tool 73701 Spark Plug Gap Gauge Tool

I am looking to buy a gapper. Do you have a link of the nicer feeler gauge set or do they sell them at auto shops too? Thanks

Jason

EDIT: IS THIS WHAT YOU ARE TALKING ABOUT? GAPPER AND FEELER GAUGE



Yes, that one is perfect...has both blades and wires plus the electrode "spreader".
 
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/187424-how-read-spark-plug-gapper.html

48722-how-gap-your-spark-plugs-pluggappers.jpg
 
And the picture from Defiant shows why the "ramp" type of gapper is not preferred...

1. Harder to read/gauge.
2. The electrode can twist and have one side correct, but the other side is too low giving too small of a gap than what's required.
 
That was a good explanation actually. If you used the ramped one and checked both sides it might be more effective, but still not worth it. I have to see what we have in the garage. I dont even know what gapper my dad has, but he said its not the ramped one, so I think I ll be good to go.
 
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