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Dirty new oil.?!

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chukolac719

10+ Year Contributor
67
0
Feb 6, 2012
Leadville, Colorado
so i changed my oil and its dirty again after 5 miles of drving! im talking dirty black like the old one what gives!!! also my spark plugs are filled with oil not a lot but all around the thread, does this mean new head gasket??:confused:
 
What brand oil? And you probably need a new valve cover gasket.
I know when I used to use Mobil 1 the oil would get dirty extremely fast.
 
Ya new VC gasket and tube seals if its getting on the threads of the plugs. Same here as far as dirty oil goes i have a huge high flow air filter which doesn't seem to help. Lets more dirt in with the extra air:aha:
 
You have to remember that when you drain your oil, it doesn't drain all of it. So when you ad your new oil, it will still have some of the dark oil which may darken the new oil a little but shouldn't be quite as black as the old stuff. Did you change the filter too?
 
How much oil are you consuming between changes? If you consuming quite a bit, it sounds to me like worn cylinders or valve stem seals. Oil could be getting burnt which is contaminating your oil with Carbon. Any oil that doesn't get burnt ends up on your plugs and in your exhaust. A compression test and leak down test would confirm either one.

If there is no signs of leaking rings or valve stem seals, it is also possible your engine is just sludged. If so, try using some Seafoam the correct way. Many members on here will curse Seafoam till the end of the earth, but the only horror stories I've seen are from misuse of the product.
 
If it's dirty that means it is doing it's job. Do another oil change. You could drop the oil pan and clean it. Makes me think you have some sludge buildup somewhere.

Seafoam is an amazing product. If used correctly like WES_393 said
 
Before you change the oil again, drain about 1QT out of the system. Replace with 1QT of ATF Automatic Transmission Fluid. Run that for 50-100 miles then change it once again. Are you using synthetics? Syn oils can cause leaks since the molecules are even smaller in comparison to conventional crude oil molecules. If your spark plug hole are filling up with oil, then you have to change the (4) plug plug hole grommets and valve cover gasket. ATF is cheaper than Seafoam but, if you can get can of Seafoam then use it in the oil, not fuel tank. Remember to change your oil while the engine has warmed, oil will flow better heated. Try to use a good filter like WIX, or something close to OEM as you can get.
 
I would just flush it, drain your oil, put in 3 quarts let it run for 30 mins then drain it and fill up with a synthetic oil :) well i work at lube x so have the privilages of doing every fluid in my car and doing flushes for however long I want haha and my cars oils as clean as new after a couple weeks
 
The new oil getting black quick is common. It's just mixing with the old oil that was left.

If you're really worried about it, shorten your oil change interval. Either do another change now, or do a few oil changes closer together.

If the maintenance on the car has be a little lacking, you may want to drop the oil pan or pull the head to make sure there isn't a sludge. But sludge really isn't a problem with 4g63's.


And if you're getting oil in the spark plug tubes, you need to replace the spark plug hole grommets. Some valve cover gaskets sets include them, while others do not.
 
I'm assuming you changed your filter as well? Anyways, change your oil again if you're really concerned about it and i recommend a can of BG Compression performance restoration before the oil change and add a can of BG MOA with your oil when you're filling them back up. They are about $10 each but they work really great. I do that every other oil change. As far as your plugs filed with oil, like mentioned above change your valve cover gasket and the grommets in the plugs' holes. Good luck.
 
+1 on the MOA, BG has se if the best products I've ever used. I've heard of using ATF but I've heard several different ways of doing it. Is the car new to you?
 
What I always do is drain all the old oil out leave the drain plug out and pour about half a quart of new oil through the motor to clear out a majority of the old oil you can also turn the motor over manually to maximize this method its always worked for me.....
 
Synthetics don't really cause leaks, they can just make one stand out more. I'm an amsoil dealer and have seen any engine flush , which is essentially kerosene, do a great job of giving it a good clean out. I agree to add the flush, run it, drain it, refill, run it, then drain before adding synthetic oil.
 
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