Crower or Pauter

[SeanJhn9]

i was just wanting to know some info so i could make my decision on which rods to go with, as far as pistons go, i am going to go with ross, and i know that with this setup, it will pretty much take anything you'll throw at it.

Thanks

 

[MNGSX]

If you aren't trying to run with the biggest of the big dogs go with the crower or maybe the light version of the pauter. Even the light pauters are heavy.

http://www.pauter.com/mitsubishi.htm

The "Eclipse 4G63, early" pauter is one hell of a rod... Just too much weight for any engine under 600hp.

"4G63 early, lightweight" is 75g lighter.

Don't skimp on the rod quality that is for sure. However massive overkill is still overkill. A 400-500hp non NOS engine does'nt need the anvil like 680 gram rods.


I did a little grand total of the engine (#2) build and what percentage of cost going with various rods was. For something that litterally makes or breaks and engine (sometimes breaks a block) like a rod it can seem like small change in the grand total of an entire car. $800 in rods vs $1600 rods seems like alot but by the time you add up injectors, machine.head work, intakes, injectors, clutch, fuel pumps, scattersheilds, cage, wheels, tires, etc.. etc... its a WAFG $3800 vs $3000 setup...

I'll be putting in a custom rod order soon... Two places are working on quotes.. 10-12 weeks from then I'll have them. As strong as some 680 gram rods but around 400 grams per rod. It might cost a dollar a gram... 400 x 4 rods... Can't wait ti TI-ghten them down...

 

[DSMJim]

Why not consider the Eagle H-beams they have been proven to take lots of HP and are damn cheap. Have them balanced before putting them in and you should be good to go for less $$$...

 

[Big Woo]

I prefer the Oliver "parabolic beam" rods
Just another choice.

 

[Rick@AP]

Originally posted by MNGSX
Can't wait ti TI-ghten them down...

WOW, can I borrow a $1g? I hope that you are going after some records with that set-up. I investigated the idea and came up with a company that would do it for around $1200/set. I just couldn't justify the expense though.

Originally posted by DSMJim
Why not consider the Eagle H-beams they have been proven to take lots of HP and are damn cheap. Have them balanced before putting them in and you should be good to go for less $$$...

I whole heartedly agree. The Weisco/Eagle set up has held up to 7xx HP without a problem and the price is right. Not only that but the reduced weight from this combo will frees up some xtra HP and doesn't stress the rotating assembly as much.

 

[MNGSX]

I investigated the idea and came up with a company that would do it for around $1200/set

Who quoted you $1200?

As for going for records... Right now I'd just like a day off....

You can get aluminum rods for close to the price of std forged steel if racing ET's are the only issue. In the end it probably costs the same because AL rods are expendable by nature.

I am coming out under budget on the car but not on time due to work.

I'm still a bit under what I though the whole thing would cost with going extravagant on the conrods. Especially if someplace will do it for $1200..

You can get a set for an SBC (all 8 rods) for just under 2k... But production levels and popularity drove that down.

I can't see why if enough people start buying them the price on 4 4g63 rods can't hover around 1k or slightly less.

If I owned the right kind of facilities I'd try to come up with $200-$250 composite (thermo plastic) intakes.. Dry sump kits around $300 complete (2 stage scavenge. OE pressure) and Ti rods for around $1k.