Crank Sprocket! OMG!

[Sublime_06]

I am wits end with the god damn crank sprocket.. Does anyone have any idea how to get this off??

First I would like to state that my timing belt is OFF! And I am referring to the crank SPROCKET.. NOT the PULLEY!

I have to try and get this thing off without turning the engine over and I am having an impossible time trying to keep the sprocket stationary.

What do you guys recommend to keep this damn thing from moving?

PLEASE HELP!!


Thanks,
Chris.

 

[Timechg]

Have you tried an impact wrench? If you don't have an air compressor you should pick up an electric powered impact wrench. Otherwise there is a special tool available part number MD998785. This guy makes a tool on ebay http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MITS...004QQitemZ140137298251QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW it's pretty simple set up maybe you could make something similar, hopefully that helps.

Tim

 

[Sublime_06]

I have an impact gun. The problem is I need to keep the crank from moving when I start to rip the bolt off with the gun. I need to keep this damn sprocket from moving.

 

[delta448]

I fabricated a tool like the one shown on the VFAQ. I didn't get as fancy with it though, just used a spare serpentine belt tool I had laying around.

At first I tried to make the tool like the one on the VFAQ, but I got frustrated and impatient (especially since the engine was out of it's donor car in one piece) so I modified the design. I drilled 2 holes in the long shaft and then attatched the piece from my first attempt and used one of the holes I already drilled in the little ba$tard leg I'd given up on. The holes I used are circled in green.

 

[Sublime_06]

I have the oil pan off and I was thinking about putting something between the crank and the block to keep it from moving. I am just nervous is trying to break this nut loose with a 3' breaker bar going apply to much force to the wedge and damage the block.. Should this be something I need not worry about and just try that method?

 

[blcknspo0ln]

Use a big towel and shove it between the crank and the block. It works and eliminates any chance of denting your block.

 

[talon20g]

The best way to break the crank bolt free is to get a 1/2 inch drive breaker bar and put it against the frame while someone bumps the key. The starter will do all the work and I've personally never know it to fail. But I just saw your last post were you had the oil pan off so I guess your sol. Sorry I didn't see this sooner. Gotta love the head achs.

 

[Talonracn50]

put your breaker bar in the nut on the end of the crank. Turn the engine over by hand until the breaker bar is against the lower control arm/mount. Get in and hit the key, worked like a champ for me.

I know that you dont want to turn it over, but mark your sprocket, and you will be fine. If you are really worried, unbolt the cam caps so that the cams release any pressure they are putting on the valves. This way all of them are closed and you have no way of hurting the valves.

 

[Talonracn50]

why does the oil pan matter? It wont be turning completely over, just BUMP and then its done.

 

[talon20g]

why does the oil pan matter? It wont be turning completely over, just BUMP and then its done.

You are very righ t, guess I wasn't thinking. I'll blame it on the 14 hour work day I just had.

 

[oldman]

1. Rotate the crank clockwise about 30* from TDC, make sure your Cams are lined up for TDC as well.

2. Feed a rope down the #1 spark plug hole, make sure you don't drop the entire rope in it.

3. Rotate the crank CCW until the engine is locked.

4. Remove the sprocket bolt.

5. Rotate the crank CW and pull out the rope.

 

[Sublime_06]

I have no idea how that rope trick works, cowboy.

 

[talon20g]

Basically all it does is lock the motor up or in other words keeps it from rotating while you pry on the crank bolt. After the bolt breaks free pull the rope out.

 

[oldman]

I have no idea how that rope trick works, cowboy.

Since a rope is not compressible, if you have enough rope to fill the gap between your head and the top of the piston at TDC, the motor will be locked before it gets to TDC.

 

[Sublime_06]

Ahh haa! I see. I will try this method as well.

Thanks guys.

 

[95 'clipse RS]

i have done the method of hittin the starter to break the bolt loose. it works pretty well, of course you have to loosen the cams though. but yeah, jus position the breaker against the floor and hit it. or you could try something else if all else fails. lower the car with wheels on the ground, put it in gear, then it shouldnt turn and you could break it loose as well. 5th would possibly be the best, also only works for manuals too though.

hope this helps

 

[donmagicjuan]

Actually, 1st gear is the best gear choice if you're trying to keep the engine from rotating. 5th gear gives the wheels the biggest advantage over the engine.

I'm not sure I'd be too wild about the idea of trying to break the bolt free with the starter if the timing belt is removed. To me that just screams bent valves waiting to happen. Most likely a pretty low probability of it going awry, but boy would your face be red if it did!

 

[95 'clipse RS]

i thought 5th would be the way to go, being that the engine even has troubles turning the wheels in 5th. but i may be wrong

 

[donmagicjuan]

Yes, but the reasoning is reversed when the wheels are trying to turn the engine. Your argument only applies for the normal case when the engine is trying to turn the wheels.

 

[95 'clipse RS]

why would the wheels be trying to turn the engine? my suggesstion was to put it in 5th with the wheels on the ground, and break the bolt loose with the breaker bar. not by rollin the car around or somethin. i just dont see the car moving at all with it in 5th, e-brake on, and torqueing on the crank bolt to get it loose. like going up a steep hill in 5th, the car doesnt wanna go. but in 1st it does. the gear ratio of fifth is so hard even for the engine to turn, how is he gonna turn it? im not sayin turn the wheel in fifth or anything, then i could understand what you are talkin about. to me it seems like that would do the trick.

Yes, but the reasoning is reversed when the wheels are trying to turn the engine. Your argument only applies for the normal case when the engine is trying to turn the wheels.

and it is in the normal case, he'll be trying to turn the engine(by the Crank) in 5th. which will be difficult to do and will result in him getting the bolt off.

 

[donmagicjuan]

I think I was misunderstanding what you were suggesting. I see what you're getting at now, and for that you'd be correct that 5th gear provides the most resistance to torque on the bolt.

 

[95 'clipse RS]

there ya go. i guess we were kinda both confused about it haha. sorry for the confusion

 

[Locke]

I have an impact gun. The problem is I need to keep the crank from moving when I start to rip the bolt off with the gun. I need to keep this damn sprocket from moving.

Hold it with your hand.

 

[Sublime_06]

I finally got that damn thing to come loose.. Thanks for the input guys..

Just another quick question.. Does the motor mount and the water pump both have to come off to remove the front case cover?

 

[95 'clipse RS]

front of the timing cover, or the back piece of the cover? and if i remeber correctly the engine mount, water pump pulley, and a/c tensioner and bracket have to come off to remove the timing cover.