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crank sensor replacement???

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1badtsi

20+ Year Contributor
1,150
10
Nov 7, 2002
phoenix / medfo, Oregon
ok, after replacing my coilpack and power transistor to try and fix my no-spark problem and not have that work, theres only one more thing it can be, the crank sensor

now does anyone have pics of what it looks like?

links to faq's or how too's?

any sort of input to help me along would be much apreciated, i know there are alot of others who have experienced the same problems im having
 
Well I hope this helps. Ive had the same no spark problem and been trying to figure it out. After plugging DSMLink into my car It gave me a Crank Angle Sensor Circuit Malfunction code. I hope this is the problem with me cause I checked all the other stuff also. As to where to find it, Look below your cam gears and in the center ( well almost center ) of all of your pullys you should see a little hammerhead shaped sensor bolted to the block with two ( i think 10 or 12 mm ) bolts. the wire runs up to the back of the rear cam gear and plugs into the harness. It is very easy to take off and reinstall so hopefully that is the problem and this fixes your car. I know this is some lame info. but hopefully this helps you out a bit. :dsm:
 
It could also be your cam angle sensor. When I first fired up my GS-T after putting my engine back in, cylinders 2 and 4 weren't firing. I checked the same things you did and everything was fine, but my cam angle sensor had a bad wire.

Also the crank sensor looks just like the cam angle sensor and its located behind the crank pulley. Hope this helps.

Just in case you didn't know the CAS on 95-96 GS-T, GSX, & TSi are behind the intake cam gear :dsm:
 
Have you checked to make sure that you are getting fuel up front. When your CAS is not functioning you shouldnt get any fuel. You might wanna check this before narrowing down what your probs. could be. As he said above you should check the CAS cause this seems to go a little more often than the crank sensor for some reason. :dsm:
 
When my CAS wasn't working I still got fuel up front. When I removed my spark plugs to see if cylinders 2 and 4 were firing, when they weren't firing the plugs were wet from gasoline.
 
With a faulty CAS you will get a PO340 code, fuel but no spark on 2 cyl. (ususally 1 and 4 but can be 2 and 3

With a faulty Crank sensor you will get no spark on any cyl. and no fuel to any cyl.


There are instructions on how to check both of these in the Haynes or Chiltons manual and it tells you what ranges the signal voltage should be in, etc.

Shauna
 
jay_rod24 said:
With a faulty CAS you will get a PO340 code, fuel but no spark on 2 cyl. (ususally 1 and 4 but can be 2 and 3

With a faulty Crank sensor you will get no spark on any cyl. and no fuel to any cyl.


There are instructions on how to check both of these in the Haynes or Chiltons manual and it tells you what ranges the signal voltage should be in, etc.

Shauna

This is kinda weird. I am not getting any spark right now to any cylinder but I am getting fuel. I only got a CEL one time and DSMLink gave me a Crank angle sensor circuit malfunction error. Now if this is true then I am totally lost now. I dont get any CEL's anymore but still no spark after wiring my Crank sensor to my 1st gen CAS. Im lost. I didnt mean to hijack the thread but i figured this pertained to what he was asking and if we could kill 2 birds with a stone why not. :dsm:
 
98evoIIIpwr said:
This is kinda weird. I am not getting any spark right now to any cylinder but I am getting fuel. I only got a CEL one time and DSMLink gave me a Crank angle sensor circuit malfunction error. Now if this is true then I am totally lost now. I dont get any CEL's anymore but still no spark after wiring my Crank sensor to my 1st gen CAS. Im lost. I didnt mean to hijack the thread but i figured this pertained to what he was asking and if we could kill 2 birds with a stone why not. :dsm:
The 1g cas has two sensors built into one unit, the crank sensor is integral with the cam sensor. Make sure that you are using the right wires for the cam sensor and crank sensor portions since it's possible that you have them mixed up. :dsm:
 
I'm in this same boat now, as I'm trying to locate the cam angle sensor. Chiltons instruction indicates a timing belt removal. Is that true? Or can you remove this without the tedious task of removing the timing belt. Also, any other tips for its removal can be of great value right now. Thx.
 
Use chiltons to test or pm me and Ill give you the procedure. I highly recommend leaving the sensors in place and just installing a 1g CAS it allows you to control you ignition timing and will save you the time and effort of removing and reinstalling new Crank and Cam sensors. If it is time to do your timing belt it would be a good idea to remove the sensors and add the CAS at the same time. You must have a timing light to adjust your CAS but there should be a vfaq about it. Price of a crank sensor is roughly $66.10 and shop hours are approx. 3hrs You will have to remove the timing covers but if I remember correctly you can fish it out without removing the belt. The camshaft position sensor lists for approx. $55.67 and turbo with ac shop hours to r/r come to approx. 4 hour. This has can only be removed by first removing the intake cam gear. You can break it off, although that is not a suggestion, without removing the gear. Of course if it is time to do the timing belt the shop time is only 4.5 hrs. with turbo and ac. and includes replacing tensioner pulley and auto tensioner. don't forget to check the balance shaft belt when you remove the lower timing cover. Change it or remove balance shaft all together when you r/r timing belt. :dsm:
 
95gstHRCsuper20 said:
Use chiltons to test or pm me and Ill give you the procedure. I highly recommend leaving the sensors in place and just installing a 1g CAS it allows you to control you ignition timing and will save you the time and effort of removing and reinstalling new Crank and Cam sensors. If it is time to do your timing belt it would be a good idea to remove the sensors and add the CAS at the same time. You must have a timing light to adjust your CAS but there should be a vfaq about it. Price of a crank sensor is roughly $66.10 and shop hours are approx. 3hrs You will have to remove the timing covers but if I remember correctly you can fish it out without removing the belt. The camshaft position sensor lists for approx. $55.67 and turbo with ac shop hours to r/r come to approx. 4 hour. This has can only be removed by first removing the intake cam gear. You can break it off, although that is not a suggestion, without removing the gear. Of course if it is time to do the timing belt the shop time is only 4.5 hrs. with turbo and ac. and includes replacing tensioner pulley and auto tensioner. don't forget to check the balance shaft belt when you remove the lower timing cover. Change it or remove balance shaft all together when you r/r timing belt. :dsm:


Would this mitigate the problem (1g CAS) of a walking crank? I mean would it last longer than replacing the current 2G CAS since it won't be hit by the crank. Or am I missing something here, I did read the instruction on RRE"s site but just need a little clarification.
 
PSIcho said:
I'm in this same boat now, as I'm trying to locate the cam angle sensor. Chiltons instruction indicates a timing belt removal. Is that true? Or can you remove this without the tedious task of removing the timing belt. Also, any other tips for its removal can be of great value right now. Thx.

If you have a 97 DSM like your profile says than you wouldnt have to touch the timng to remove your CAS it is located at the end of your intake cam. Only the 95-96 have the CAS next to the cam gear. You need to undo a sensor connnector and three bolts and whala. :dsm:
 
98evoIIIpwr said:
If you have a 97 DSM like your profile says than you wouldnt have to touch the timng to remove your CAS it is located at the end of your intake cam. Only the 95-96 have the CAS next to the cam gear. You need to undo a sensor connnector and three bolts and whala. :dsm:

Yeah I got a 97. However, I was talking about the CRANK Angle Sensor being hard to locate instead of the Cam Angle Sensor thats at the end of the intake cam. I know people always use CAS when they mean one or the other which makes it tough when I'm trying to search for answers related to them. Thanks much though. :thumb:
 
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