Coolant leak behind turbo. HELP!

[Wisecut]

First off i have searched and not found anything about this.

I have a 92 rs awd laser. It has a pte 3431 turbo

My problem is i am leaking coolant on the back side of the turbo. I have traced the leak to the bango bolt that has the hose connected to the tstat. My questions is whats the best way to fix this. Need to change the crusher washer. Iv tried to reach in there and its just not wanting to come off. Do i need to take my turbo off? Please give me steps to fix this.
Thanks,
Tim

 

[Jon91TSi]

First off i have searched and not found anything about this.

I have a 92 rs awd laser. It has a pte 3431 turbo

My problem is i am leaking coolant on the back side of the turbo. I have traced the leak to the bango bolt that has the hose connected to the tstat. My questions is whats the best way to fix this. Need to change the crusher washer. Iv tried to reach in there and its just not wanting to come off. Do i need to take my turbo off? Please give me steps to fix this.
Thanks,
Tim

Pull the manifold off, change the washers. The only problem will be that you can't get a torque wrench in between the water pipe and the banjo bolt, so you'll have to use a wrench. Get the bolt tight and go 1/4 turn past that and you should be good to go. I just had to do this on a customer's car.

 

[WOTDSM]

Can you just separate the hot side from the cold side? Usually (at least on MHI turbos) you can just pop the band clamp off the turbo, and that allows you to take the cold side off with the center section. That way you don't have to buy all new gaskets and such.

 

[MrNeedles]

I just had this same problem. You have to pull the turbo setup. Trying to get around that is going to waste more time.

 

[Wisecut]

I just had this same problem. You have to pull the turbo setup. Trying to get around that is going to waste more time.

Can you give me a rundown of what you did?

Thanks,
Tim

 

[MrNeedles]

The basic turbo removal:
- Unbolt your downpipe, oil return, oil feed, and coolant lines.
- unbolt the manifold and pull the whole turbo setup out.

If I'm correct, the port you're talking about is on a 2g block and runs coolant. You can either change the washers on there or/and throw some Teflon on the threads. I chose to block the port off with a 3/8 bspt plug because my 5857 doesn't need coolant. If you need to remove that nut, the socket size is 22mm. I don't think you need to remove the waterpipe to access it, but you may need to unbolt the water pipe bracket that holds it to the block. that should give u some vertical play




Lol my bad man... I just reread your post.

So your turbo is leaking, and not the block? Remove the turbo like I said and change the washers. Don't over tighten them though.

 

[Jon91TSi]

The basic turbo removal:
- Unbolt your downpipe, oil return, oil feed, and coolant lines.
- unbolt the manifold and pull the whole turbo setup out.

If I'm correct, the port you're talking about is on a 2g block and runs coolant. You can either change the washers on there or/and throw some Teflon on the threads. I chose to block the port off with a 3/8 bspt plug because my 5857 doesn't need coolant. If you need to remove that nut, the socket size is 22mm. I don't think you need to remove the waterpipe to access it, but you may need to unbolt the water pipe bracket that holds it to the block. that should give u some vertical play




Lol my bad man... I just reread your post.

So your turbo is leaking, and not the block? Remove the turbo like I said and change the washers. Don't over tighten them though.

There is absolutely no need to remove the entire turbo. Remove the manifold, change the washers, and be done with it.

 

[Wisecut]

There is absolutely no need to remove the entire turbo. Remove the manifold, change the washers, and be done with it.

Will i need a new gasket for manifold. Also what is the torque specs for the manifold.

Thanks Tim

 

[Jon91TSi]

Will i need a new gasket for manifold. Also what is the torque specs for the manifold.

Thanks Tim

Depends on what kind of gasket you use. I always use copper manifold to head gaskets, and OEM stainless manifold to turbo crush gaskets. If this is the case nothing needs to be done to the manifold to head gasket and a light coat of copper spray is all that's needed on the manifold to turbo gasket.

I'll assume you are probably running a felpro style composite manifold to head gasket or MLS, and an OEM MLS manifold to turbo gasket. All that needs to be done in this situation is just a light coat of copper spray to both sides. Let it tack and install them.

Torque specs are 18 ft/lbs for the studs in a criss cross pattern. Check them and re-torque as necessary after a few heat cyles.

Manifold to turbo is: 43 ft/lbs in a criss cross pattern and don't forget your anti-seize.

 

[Wisecut]

Depends on what kind of gasket you use. I always use copper manifold to head gaskets, and OEM stainless manifold to turbo crush gaskets. If this is the case nothing needs to be done to the manifold to head gasket and a light coat of copper spray is all that's needed on the manifold to turbo gasket.

I'll assume you are probably running a felpro style composite manifold to head gasket or MLS, and an OEM MLS manifold to turbo gasket. All that needs to be done in this situation is just a light coat of copper spray to both sides. Let it tack and install them.

Torque specs are 18 ft/lbs for the studs in a criss cross pattern. Check them and re-torque as necessary after a few heat cyles.

Manifold to turbo is: 43 ft/lbs in a criss cross pattern and don't forget your anti-seize.

Ok. I am just alittle nervous about doing this. I have some experience working on cars. The main thing is not breaking any bolts off in the motor. I see that some of them are extremely hard to get to is there a special tool or anything else that needs to be removed in order for me to access the bolts? Especially the one by the ps pump/ alternator

 

[Jon91TSi]

Ok. I am just alittle nervous about doing this. I have some experience working on cars. The main thing is not breaking any bolts off in the motor. I see that some of them are extremely hard to get to is there a special tool or anything else that needs to be removed in order for me to access the bolts? Especially the one by the ps pump/ alternator

It's not hard. If you're worried about snapping something go grab a map gas torch with a good tip. Get everything plenty hot and go to town one at a time. Don't rush. Removing the power steering isn't necessary, but it will give you a little more room, 3 bolts is all that holds the pump on and then you can set it to the side. As long as you have a stock cast manifold it really isn't that bad. If you have a eBay tubular manifold, some of the bolts can be quite difficult to get to. As long as you have a ratchet with extensions and some wrenches you'll be able to tackle it. You could even spray the bolts a few times with PB blaster as well before heating.

 

[Wisecut]

I was able to replace the washers. Now im having issues lining everything up. The turbo and manifold is becoming a pain. Any help would be appreciated. Btw i also have a tial wastegate that is on the turbo/ downpipe. This coule be the reason im having alot of issues.

Tim

 

[MrNeedles]

Yea this is why I said it would be easier just to pull the whole setup. Everytime I take the manifold off, its a pain to line it up with the tubo, especially if with an external gate and big turbo. Get a friend to help you out by getting under the car and supporting the turbo a little, while you try to get the a bolt or 2 in from the top.

Are you using a stock manifold?

 

[Jon91TSi]

I was able to replace the washers. Now im having issues lining everything up. The turbo and manifold is becoming a pain. Any help would be appreciated. Btw i also have a tial wastegate that is on the turbo/ downpipe. This coule be the reason im having alot of issues.

Tim

Use judgement, but use force to get it to line back up. If you're using bolts and not a bolt/stud combo for the manifold there sould be no reason why you cant get it back on easily.