compressor surge?

[Nick2gGST]

So in my case, I recirculated the bov setup using a 1g bov supplied by fabian, thanks mang. Had to buy a longer vacuum hose (might not be stiff enough) for the top of the bov to the IM... sooo now, when I start my car it always flutters at almost any rpm above like 1.5 i hear tstststsss, sooo I opened the hood with the car running listened, I could hear it mostly from the k&n filter. So my first step was to un-circulate the bov and listen directly to that to see if the tstststs was just flutter...but nope, i revved it up again and it was still coming from the k&n filter...I'm sure with the air coming back through the filter the wrong way (if that's what it's doing) it's probably not good for my stock mafs. My only few thoughts are...
1. bov is too stiff? it is crushed.
2. the vaccum line from the nipple of the bov to the IM is not stiff enough so it may be collapsing?

I'm not sure if my vented bov made this sound or not because the bov itself fluttered too.

If it is my turbo itself, why would it do that? If I replace the turbo can I replace it with a 16g without any mods? just literally bolt on the turbo itself and go?

 

[Nick2gGST]

So it should be open a little at idle? ### it's not at all. This thing is very stiff. When I pushed it open with my thumb it opened like a quarter of an inch. But it was tough. Idk.

 

[Nick2gGST]

Also my car kind of bucks when building up boost sometimes, it feels kind of like a misfire, but all that stuff is new. I don't know if that's a separate issue all together, I'm more worried about the other things first though because the bucking isn't that often and barely noticeable.

 

[the_mork]

So why did you buy a crushed bov in the first place if you are running a turbo that couldn't push open a 1g valve even if you welded the wastegate shut? It just doesn't make sense to me.

 

[Nick2gGST]

WTH??? I didn't buy it I traded straight up for my rfl that was vented. It's stock turbo at 15 psi...You saying that's not enough? I think your confused a bit. idk. This bov I got is verrrry crushed its all the way crushed to the vacuum line, the vacuum line is actually tilted kind of because of how crushed it is. Idk I'm new to this whole thing so I don't know how it should be haha.

 

[the_mork]

I'm not confused it is possible that I'm being unclear though.

What I meant to say is why use a crushed bov at all when an uncrushed 1g bov is more than sufficient for your needs and will offer quicker reaction time with less headache. You've answered this in saying that you had to find one that you could trade your RFL for which is understandable.

Having a 1g bov crushed that far is not good. Probably I would say that it isn't going to work at all that way. There is a proper way to crush a 1g bov and it involves using a vacuum pump to check the spring resistance as you crush it so that you don't go too far. When the hat pushes on the vacuum nipple then that is almost certainly too far. IMO a 1g bov should NEVER be crushed. If you are running enough boost to be past the stock capabilities of a 1g bov then you should either use teh Dejon stop leak kit or use the Dodge Garage mod. Both of those have plenty of information widely available with just a search.

As far as not running enough boost, absolutely not I'm not trying to say that at all. You should run the boost that your fuel system and components can handle. In this case it just so happens that the 1g bov (in good condition) will never be overstressed by a T25. If you weld the wastegate shut on a t25 you might make pressure in the low 20s but it will be a spike and short lived, quickly you will run out of airflow and taper down to nothing near redline. When you get that far I would suggest finding an unmolested 1g bov and skipping the evo8 bov. IIRC the evo8 bovs are much better than the 2g bovs but still not as good as the 1g bovs and you will find that it is harder to get intercooler piping with a 2g flange on it. If you are going to upgrade to an evo bov then go with one off of a 9 but I would really suggest just scouring ebay and the classifieds to find an uncrushed 1g bov which you can usually do for about $25.

 

[Nick2gGST]

What should I do in the mean time? I'm not working till like next week I hope. Fabian Is also sending me a greddy type s knock off. I'm sure that one wont be anywhere near as stiff.

 

[Rob10_99]

Well the in engine video of that 240 is a tight BOV, or not enough vacuum pulling the BOV open.
The first video that guy was WHALING on that car surging the shit out of it.

In the mean time like your asking, I would just turn the boost down, that is the only thing that will stop the noise. Thats not NEARLY as bad as the 1st video, sure its hard on the turbo, but its not surging your engine to death.
Pick up a hand held vaccum/pressure tester that has a gauge on it, very useful for a boosted car.

Compressor surge is solved with this system by garrett, there's a few other companies that have variants of this, they all do the same thing. It bypasses the aggressive first part of the wheel.

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For your issue, you need a new BOV, that one sounds well smashed.

 

[Nick2gGST]

Like I said I don't have a MBC and no access to a vaccum with a gauge on it.I'd rather look at the possible fixes and then do it. What will fix this? Just a less stiffer bov?

 

[Rob10_99]

Yes, your BOV is either too smashed(most likely) or you don't have enough vaccum to pull the valve up.

 

[Nick2gGST]

ok well it is crushed so that the vacuum port is crooked from sitting on the hat. But if that's not the case, why would I be lacking vacuum?

 

[Rob10_99]

Lack of vaccum could be anything from huge overlap on cams, to a leaking throttle plate/throttle body.
You dont have a tester so you can't really see where it's going...

 

[Nick2gGST]

Well my headgasket and all that was just serviced so the cams and everything were times and fine, and when they did they they just replaced all the gaskets and hoses you can think of. So more then likely it's the bov.

 

[the_mork]

You would need to do a boost leak test for sure. Does your boost gauge show vacuum as well? What does it go to on decel?

 

[Nick2gGST]

I wrote all about my boost gauge.. I think 3 times. -19/20 at idle, at decel no clue.

 

[Nick2gGST]

I gutta figure out how to wire that up so it turns on when my lights come on. I can't read my boost gauge at night.

 

[VETTE_50_TH]

If you go with a evo8 bov, thats a downgrade. Those suck. Thats why E8 guys dump them and go to a E9 valve. And like i stated before, the valve is too crushed. Finally people came in a backed me up. Again, if you want a valve that holds boost to 15-17 psi without crushing, buy mine.

James

 

[Nick2gGST]

Sheesh! nobody reads!! I have a greddy type s knock off coming..that's the one I'm going to permanently use...The evo8 one is FREE and only going to be used till my real one gets here (about a week). vette no offense but I don't like waiting for stuff to ship and all that..Bov's are cheap enough where I can get one without waiting.

 

[VETTE_50_TH]

How are you switching the style of bov back and forth. Are you changing your intercooler piping everytime?

James

 

[Dert]

I coulda sworn that the first video was actually boost creep....Like stated above under wot its 15psi, under idle its 19-20 -vac.

Your not understanding what I'm saying...if the bov was not recirculated..Which i tried, The sound STILL comes from the intake filter as if from the turbo, With it being un-circulated if it was the bov i would hear it coming from the bov and not the intake filter at all. It does come out of the bov too but only a tiny bit. Please try to think about what I'm trying to say.

the first video is actually turbo stall which can sound alot like bad compressor surge, also as stated the way too crushed bov is not opening right so just hang tight untill you get the type s knockoff and see if there is a change, cheers

 

[Nick2gGST]

vette the two i've used so far hooks up the same way on the stock piping. Both are tubular on the bottom.

 

[VETTE_50_TH]

WHAT? The 1g bov is a screw down. The evo and 2g dsm and a plug type. Totally different. Sure its a 1g you got?

James

 

[Nick2gGST]

I never had a stock 2g bov and never used the evo8 bov yet? they are all circle tube on the bottom and clamp onto my intercooler pipe?

 

[the_mork]

That is the 2g style. I've seen a few 1g bovs with an adapter on them that looks like it is from the factory but really a 1g bov doesn't fit like that normally. A greddy bov wont either. You will need to use a 1g or greddy flange to make it work. If you have a 1g flange you'll need to drill new holes. The evo bov is the only one that will have the clamp in flange. You should upgrade your UICP anyway because the stock pipe is extremely restrictive.

 

[Nick2gGST]

I HAVE NO MONEY YET wanna buy me the uicp?.....for the 5th time. . Idk there isnt any bolts on this bov to BOLT to the intercooler piping there is a tube that gets CLAMPED on nad it was the same way for my rfl and the same way for the greddy knock off I am getting, there is no leak or anything it's a snug fit, so I have no idea what your talking about. there is a circle hole in my intake...bov fit snug in circle hole..clamp down tight...

 

[the_mork]

We do read. We are telling you that that isn't normal. A hole in the UICP is a 2g flange. Neither a normal Greddy BOV nor a normal 1g BOV have this which is why we have no idea wtf you are doing.

I'm sorry if I missed that you have vacuum reading on your boost gauge. As you can see I have well over a 1000 posts. When I go to the my discussions tab I don't automatically re-read every thread that I respond to every time that I respond because there are a lot of them, if I miss something then I apologize but sometimes things get through, and often discussions blend together because I've gone over them a number of times.

What we are saying is be careful from here on out because honestly you're not going to be able to mount most BOVs on the stock pipe. How you've gotten so lucky to get things that do mount is completely beyond me. I just don't get it.