Clutch Issues

[Talon7038]

Ok so I just installed an xtd stage 4 unsprung, along with new master and slave both oem, oem tob, ss line, comp fork and pivot ball. I was have some engagment issues not wanting to go into gear that is when I put the fork and ball in. Now she needs no pedal at all to run through the gears. I have even pulled the slave and it will still just rake right through all the gears I am at a loss.

 

[evoredy]

Do you feel the gear engagement when you row through them (I'm assuming engine off of course)? There should be a slight to loud audible click and you should feel it in the shifter too. It shouldn't feel like a "soup bowl" if all the cables are connected right and the transmission is fine.

Also, is the slave actuating normally when you depress the clutch? I'm assuming you bled and adjusted everything. look into this video if you haven't: [ame="http://youtu.be/vYJxQyjIhUw"]Proper Clutch Adjustment[/ame]

Put the car in every gear to include neutral and see if it rolls or tries move the engine. Make sure the car also is in neutral when in neutral. Good luck and let us know. You seem to have all the right parts and choices for you setup. It also seems like the new fork/ball combo may have created a new problem or might have shifted during trans-alignment and install.

 

[Talon7038]

Yeah all the cables are hooked up tight ball and fork stay lined up great. I have all new shifter bushings too and a short throw and it gives that nice push when car is off. The minute you turn her on she just does what she wants, I am wondering if axles are seated right and not getting load on the synchros maybe. I got frustrated and left my garage before I ended up doing something silly. Do you think axles would cause this issue. I know it is not bleeding 100%

 

[evoredy]

If the axles are seated, you shouldn't have an issue like yours. Verify the passenger side axle cup is almost flush with the transmission and the drivers side is in by verifying there is very little "smooth silverish" surface protruding from the axle shaft seal if AWD or again the cup is near flush with the transmission if 2WD. The transmission should engage into gear and try to move something or "grind in" especially when the clutch is not engaged and you try to put it in gear.

Jack the car up and (all four if AWD) and physically turn each drive wheel in every gear and see what's going on that way. I don't want to say it, but you will know if it's something more serious (differential, gear select mechanism, gears themselves, etc.) or something that was missed during the initial install. Good luck man.

 

[Talon7038]

Let's say hypothetically someone did something silly like try to test engagement with the axles and tcase still out. Hypothetically of course.

 

[koafallenangel]

I had that same clutch and they did not give a pin, I had a problen with this so i emailed them to complain and they said you have to use the stock pin for the clutch, did you reuse stock the pin? maybe when the new clutch was installed without it.

 

[Talon7038]

which pin are you talking about

 

[nelliott500]

I had that same clutch and they did not give a pin, I had a problen with this so i emailed them to complain and they said you have to use the stock pin for the clutch, did you reuse stock the pin? maybe when the new clutch was installed without it.

Pin?

 

[Talon7038]

There shouldnt be any pin in your clutch

 

[Skewer]

The CV axles have no bearing on how a transmission shifts.

You stated two extremes of clutch engagement issues, with the only two things changed are the release fork and the pivot ball. I would venture to say that on the first round your clutch was dragging (not fully disengaging -- allowing engine torque to flow into the transmission) and the second round was just the opposite; not enough engagement and the clutch is 'slipping'.

Did you try adjusting the rod on your clutch master cylinder? Where does the clutch release fork sit, when the pedal is not depressed. IE: is it leaning towards the clutch housing / engine or is it leaning more towards the end cover side of the trans or does it appear to be dead center?

Tim

 

[Talon7038]

it is dead center and i have went every which way adjusting the rod. I am to the point of dropping tranny and popping in another clutch just to see if it changes anything for piece of mind.

 

[Skewer]

When you adjusted the rod on the master cylinder, how did the engagement change? Were you able to adjust the rod to where you were unable to push the slave cylinder piston in with your thumb? If you were, this makes me believe you might have an issue with the physical clutch setup (pp, clutch disc, flywheel, release fork, step-height, etc) and not a hydraulic issue.

Tim

 

[Talon7038]

Yes it would change. Which has led me to the same belief. I have another brand new set up I am going to drop in this afternoon and see what the results are.

 

[pauleyman]

There is no amount of play that would allow you to shift into gears engine on if you removed the slave. Clutch would be engaged. Something has to be broken.

 

[andyb2637]

Did you check the alignment of the clutch fork? You might need to add shimms to the pivot ball or get a extended slave rod.

 

[pauleyman]

Off topic but please let this extended slave rod myth die. They do not work. It is a bandaid.

 

[Talon7038]

Fork alignment is good. I am leaning towards a defective pressure plate so I am dropping it here in a little bit and swapping it out. I have been through every other inch of the system.

And the award goes to.......defective pressure plate . Put the new one in a perfect. I could not be happier. Thanks for all the help.