Check Engine: P0125

[proto2]

Check engine light for P0125. I highly doubt it's any of the cooling since it's got a new waterpump, tstat, and radiator cap. I've read it could be the front O2 sensor. I got a universal Denso; wired it in and still the same problem. Any thoughts?

 

[SpawnedX]

Yes, change your Coolant Temp Sensor.

 

[proto2]

I already did that, didn't work.

 

[SpawnedX]

After you changed it, did you reset the computer by removing the negative cable from the battery?

 

[1996dsm]

if you used the universal one did you double check the wires, and use the scanner to erase the code and see if it pops back up.

 

[proto2]

Removed it with the scanner.

 

[SpawnedX]

Disconnect the negative terminal of the battery to clear it out and then see what happens.

The code is basically stating that the engine is not getting up to temperature, which if it's running and you have not dipped the motor in freon for some strange reason, that the sensor must not be responding to the computer.

 

[proto2]

Why the negative and not the positive?

 

[SpawnedX]

What does that mean?

This means that the engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor indicates that the engine has not reached the required temperature level to enter closed-loop operation within a specified amount of time after starting the engine.


Symptoms: You will likely not notice any drivability problems.

Causes: A code P0125 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:

Insufficient warm up time
Low engine coolant level
Leaking or stuck open thermostat
Faulty coolant temperature sensor

That's some information on it btw.

You pull the negative, because you should never pull the positive cable off a battery first, and if the battery isn't grounded, then there is no draw on the battery and it is the same effect as pulling both cables off, power is cut.

 

[liquidz28]

Make sure your wires did not get pinched anywhere and check the connection, also you can test the "new" temp sensor and see if it is in working order, fact of the matter is, not everything you buy "new" is really new anymore, so many parts in circulation these days you can never tell between refurb and genuinely new. could be a fluke, but maby the new sensor is allready crapped out. i actually had to change mine twice, first one lasted about 120,000 miles, second one lasted 70 miles . no probs since i swapped it though.

OR, just beat the hood and or valve cover with a foam padded stick,
dont matter who you are, that helps

 

[proto2]

I tried a new one and 3 used ones. Wires aren't pinched, etc.

 

[SpawnedX]

Clear the computer memory by removing the negative battery cable.

This is a free troubleshooting technique that could resolve the problem all together, it takes 1 minute, and could possibly resolve the issue. A scanner does not always remove the code from memory, therefore it could come back even if the car is not experiencing any real issues.

 

[proto2]

Clear the computer memory by removing the negative battery cable.

This is a free troubleshooting technique that could resolve the problem all together, it takes 1 minute, and could possibly resolve the issue. A scanner does not always remove the code from memory, therefore it could come back even if the car is not experiencing any real issues.

Same thing

 

[SpawnedX]

Then you need to flush your system of coolant and refill with the manufacturer's recommend amount, or maybe you have a bad computer module.

 

[proto2]

Done both already