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car wont stay running, HELP

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associator

10+ Year Contributor
38
2
Dec 19, 2010
Thornton, Pennsylvania
ok so this is going to be a bit long.

I bought my 95 tsi awd in december ran if for a little while then a problem arose. I was driving and it just stalled on me, I restarted and it wouldnt run without my foot on the gas a little bit. I found out the turbo was a failing ebay evo 16g knock off and the BOV was a leaking ebay Greddy knock off.

I took the car apart found a used greddy BOV for sale and bought a new FP evo III 16G as well as a AEM UEGO and DSM link V3 full.

I finally got all the parts and finished reassembling it all last week but there is a problem. The car runs fine when it is cold but once it warms up it stalls if I give it gas and let off, I have to bring the RPS down as slow as possible to get it to not stall. Also there is a noise coming from what I think is the area of the head it sounds like a metal to metal slapping noise almost that gets worse as the RPM increases. To my knowledge that noise was not there when the car first stopped running.

I am posting a data log from my V3 with this if it will help, does any one have any ideas what may be wrong?
 

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You could have POSSIBLY skipped timing. I'm not saying that you did, I'm saying that it's possible. Go ahead and check your timing. If anything else, it could be as simple as lifter tick which could have formed from sitting. With you saying that it wont stay running, though, it's sounding a bit like timing being a few teeth off.
 
Possible lifter tick but double check your timing is good before driving it any more.

If you didn't take notice, you are idling at a 10.0 AFR and it drops down to the 9s as well. VERY rich for idle.

Change the global to -19.9%, verify and adjust your fuel pressue (hopefully you have an AFPR you didn't list). Zero out your fuel sliders and start adjusting your dead time.

Also you are showing 1% throttle at idle and you want your TPS to show a voltage reading of 0.63v at 0% throttle.
 
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when was the timing belt last replaced? along with components, the belt has to be replaced, atleast, every 60k miles. its very crucial you keep up with this. its pretty much a matter of life and death for your engine. it does sound like the timing belt jumped.
 
also if the timing checks out you may want to clean your throttle body and possibly do a carbon treatment... are you reading lean at all anytime? what injectors do you have and how much boost are you running... vaccum lines?
 
Ok here are the responses as best I can.

I haven't changed anything that would touch the belt or the cam gears or cams so I don't know how that could have changed.

From what I was told the timing belt balance belt etc all that that you should do all at one time was replaced right before I bought it in December.

I do not have a FPR I am trying to get it running before putting any more mods into it and I don't know if the walb is a real walb or a knock off but I am going to check that at some point and verify the pressure when I do.

UEGO is reading around 14.7 it is almost a match to the est AFR i don't know why the reading it shows for AEM is so far off any help on that would help as well.

Also Does any one know how I can adjust the throttle position sensors reading? I tried doing it the way listed on the wiki for dsm link twice and it got it better but it is at where it is now with the 1% at idle, could my adjuster be way off?

ok something new noticed tonight running it, the engine shakes a lot over about 2k rpms. I found this out while holding the revs up trying to sea foam the engine
 
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