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car is kinda dying...lights on dash turn on????wtf???HELP!!!!

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rob1621

15+ Year Contributor
387
0
Jan 4, 2007
Wisconsin Dells, Wisconsin
OK so last night i was driving home and my "ANTI-LOCK" light comes on and im like wtf, whatever. I keep driving a bit and then "SRS" comes on. and by now im just pissed off but i keep driving, then notice my MPH gauge isnt working, and my RPM gauge barley responds. but i keep driving ### my destination isnt too far. Then i get to a yield right turn then i slow down to turn, then speed up, but the car is dying as im doing this its kind sputtering....it died. i park it. i figured i have no gas, got some. the car started. i drove bout 1-2miles and the "ANTI-LOCK" light is back on and my stereo is half ass working. Then i park it, let it sit. it wont start...like the battery was dead. we jumped it. it started, i reversed, lights came on, parked it again. got a ride home.....my dad goes to check it out. doesnt know whats wrong with it, tries driving it home. it dies 3 times by the time he gets home. yeah we had to jump it 3 times...it sucked. BUt can anyone help me with this!?!?!?!
 
Yeah, the low voltage started messing with the sensors (hense all the lights). Then, it started messing with the ignitions sparks (hense the stuttering). You charged it just enough during the jumps to get it to run for a little bit, but it then died once the battery drained again.

Check for loose wires. Also check to make sure the altenator's putting out 14v or so when the car is running.

No/Low voltage = bad altenator.
 
What alot of people do is buy a alternator from an autoparts store with a warranty, and since our alternators go frequently from the heat, you can just exchange it for a new one every time it goes out.
 
Also check the fuse for your alternator before you replace it. I accidentally arc'd mine one time when I was taking the heat sheild off, I didn't have the battery dis-connected, and my car was doing the same thing. I figured out the fuse blew after about 20 minutes of wondering WTF was going on.
 
And of course the final question, do you still have the stock heatshield on your exhaust manifold?

d
 
ok well im going to check all those things wire,fuse, volts. and yes i do have the stock heat shield.
 
ok well, the car has 13.9 volts when i turn it on, then i turn on the headlights,heat,radio, and then it goes to 11.4Volts. and the Alternator fuse is good. BUT my dad told me that when i was in school he checked the car out and turned on the car, disconnected the battery and it still ran.....doesn't that mean the alternator is good? well thats what he said.



also, i got a loud a$$ squeak that comes from my harmonic balancer or the belt idk. We replaced the harmonic balancer a couple of weeks ago and then just last week it started to squeak. It gets louder as i accelerate in 1st and 2nd but after that in rrley squeaks in 3rd or 4th or 5th. Whats the problem?????

ANY HELP WILL BE APPRECIATED
 
haha, this is how i got a prestine 99 eclipse GS with 90k miles a couple of years back for $900! Some kid thought he fried the electrical system or hydrolocked the motor driving in the rain (very light rain) he said all the lights came on and it just died. It sat for like 6months, until I picked it up, put a new battery in it, new alternator and bam! 420a eclipse w/ a great paint job, radio, heater, a/c, nice wheels(stock 5 spoke gst) sunroof, clean interior for $1300
 
If you're still getting good voltage, then you might want to keep searching for loose connections and shorts. I'd hate to see waste money on buying a new altenator if the old one is still good. At least get it tested before you buy a new one. You might want to clean off the positive terminal and all of those connections really good with a bit of sand paper. Make them good and shinny and try again.
 
UPDATE:

After charging the battery a wile the car is starting now. But other things are happening. I was driving to check my battery and all that. then i see my battery and brake light came on, i look at my temp gauge, and i was OMG!!! the car was really hot, pulled over as fast as i could. let it sit for about 30-45min. tried driving home after about 3 miles the temp starting goin up again, but no lights this time. I let it sit, i get home im pulling up my long drive way, ten the brake and battery light come on, temp is good but NO power steering! i turn it off. Turn it back on its the same no power steering but no lights on the dash. wtf is going on!! the belt is fine just replaced it a week or two ago. :cry::cry::cry::cry::cry:help
 
Check the belt tension on the alternator belt and water pump.

Sounds like either the belt is too loose or it's not there anymore.

And please don't bump your posts.
 
no bumping, got it.

But umm the tension of that belt seems to be just as tight as the belt next to it. The belt is there, thats the first thing i checked because something like this has happend and it was because the belt fell off, but its there now.
 
ok well i was looking at the belt this morning and it looks like its rubbing against something or something like that, because there is a part of the belt where the edges of it are starting to look torn, could it be that the belt was installed wrong or mb the wrong belt??? idk this is really weird to me ### i have no clue what it is.

so i took the belt off, and its a goodyear gatorback or whatever. well it has treads, and it looks like the outside treads on each side have been eaten off or something like some of the tread it left then ther are other parts where there is no tread. SO im guessing this might be the problem. Im goin to find another belt.



-Should i make this into a diff. thread or keep it in this one?



OK well i just talked to some guy and he said that the treads are most likely gone because the pulleys are out of line, could this be the reason for my engine starting to overheat adn my dash lights coming on and the car running out of power?
 
Assuming you have no physical alternator belt issues...

The electrical system should be something like this:

Engine running, battery needs a charge: around 14.8 v
If less, battery may be fully charged. If battery is not full charged, alternator is suspect.

Engine running, battery fully charged: around 13.8 v
If less, then the alternator or cables, ground straps are suspect.

Engine not running, battery charged: around 12.6 v
If less, then battery is not fully charged or suspect

This problem sounds like a loose/missing ground strap to me. The cheapest\easiest
fix is battery cables and straps. Numerous auto shops will also test your
alternator\battery for free.

-Dave
#532
 
aight i will take it to a autoshop as soon as i get the new belt on, ### my old one went to S**T . i will get back to you.
 
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