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Building my own exhaust:?'s

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90Tsi AWD

15+ Year Contributor
77
0
Jan 5, 2006
Long Beach, California
Hey guys I want to build a 2.5 inch exhaust for my AWD by buying my own mandrel tubing , which would include bends. I don't really want to to to a muffler shop and have them build me a press-bent one, so I decided to go this route. But before I can order the piping from RoadRace or maybe even Magnaflow I wanted to know if any of you guys know how much piping I will need & what degree bends I have to have? Any info will be appreciated. Thanks
 
For the downpipe I actually made my own out of a 2.5" mandrel bent 90 that I had, I bought a flex section for $18.95 on eBay and I found an Walker intermediate pipe for an S10 pickup at work that cost $9.45. I had a box of flanges on hand so all I had to do was weld it up, and my downpipe ended up costing me less than $30. From what I understand there is a difference in the angle which the downpipe mounts up on a 2G car, so I'm not sure what would be involved in making one fit your car. However, I know the 2G catback WILL work if you're not afraid to make a few cuts and welds. On my system, anywhere I made a cut I put a flange so the system would be easier to remove later. I got a 2.5" Airmass Thundermuff system from eBay which cost me right around $100 for the catback. It basically looks like an HKS Drager system....It's all mandrel-bent but it's not stainless. I had previously purchased the same exhaust for my 2G Eclipse, so after a few measurements I was sure it would work.
 
A friend and I built a 3" setup for fairly cheap.

(2) 3"x 10ft lengths - $25/piece

(1) 3" turbo style muffler - $30

(1) Downpipe flange - RRE - $ 15

(1) 3" header flange kit - Summit - $30

(1) Custom bending - local -$10

(1) Our own bending - (done on a harbor freight 16 ton pipe bender with 3" mandrel) -$140

(2) Heavy wire or steel rod - lowes - $10

First we pulled the downpipe off and seperated it from the rest of the exhaust just after the cat. We then took our downpipe and a 10ft stick down to the local shop and had them bend it to match the stock downpipe minus the extra bends under the engine. That was cheap, $10. We also had them bend a 45 in the second stick in the very end, for a tip.

Next we welded the header flange kit on the downpipe and placed the downpie flange on the turbo, setting the pipe up in place and tack welding it. Similar to the linked writeup above, we accomplished the clearance for the nuts by heating the pipe up slighty with a torch and using a large socket and hammer, we bent the tubing for clearance.

Next, we used my 16 ton pipe bender to put (2) 45 degree compound bends in the tubing. The are in the location of the first bend in the stock system near the rear diff. One bend towards the pass side, the other up towards the rear bumper. The result is a one piece from the downpipe to the muffler.

Then we put the rear section of pipe in place and tacked the hangers. Placed the muffler and tip on and tacked it into place. Pulled it all off and finished off the welds.

The result is a two piece system which bolts together just after where the cat use to be. There are only welds at the downpipe flange, flange near the cat, and on either side of the muffler. All the bends are in either of the two sections of pipe and are continuous. No welds at any of the bends. Very clean.
 
well I finally got my 2.5" exhaust done. It cost me a total of 300 dollars with a brnad new high-flow 2.5" cat and a downpipe. everybody I show can't beleive that its a muffler shop press-bent exhaust. for the muffler i got a dynomax super turbo. I love the mellow tone, not to honda. And now you can hear my little 14b spooling up so loud and the blow-off valve. i love the way it helped my car breathe easier. the only problem I encountered was with the flange that goes in between the O2 housing and the downpipe, but after burning up a couple of them we finally installed a high-temp double flange and no problem since. If someone can tell me how to post pics I will as soon as possible.
 
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