build break in concerns.........

[99 gst spyder]

Okay, start off I just built my bottom end with is piston, eagle rods and all new bearings. Head is pretty much stock along with 272's cams, revise lifters and new valve seals.

I'm wondering what's the best way for breaking in to motor, since I have a few upgrade already with the build such as, fp green, 38mm gate, 255 fp rewired, stock injectors, afpr on the car/motor. These are the main concerns of breaking in the motor.

I do have a wideband but not hooked up yet. Running stock gate boost at 14 psi. Running a vacuum line straight from gate to turbo should be on stock wastegate boost right?

The reason asking is because when I give it gas, sometime the cell would come on until I let off gas.

Thanks, I just don't want to blow the motor or something.

 

[boost97gst]

That cel coming on could very well be a knock. Its the only cel that will flash and then go away. That, or a misfire. A misfire MIGHT do that too.
Most people do what is called the motoman break in. Google it. But keep in mind your running a "mere" 14lbs, but on a much, much larger turbo. I would personally dial the boost back to around 8 and get that WB! You need to see where your afrs are at. What if that WAS knock? Scary shit bro. Ill step aside and let more experienced people weigh in on this. Congrats on a brand new running engine though. Doesnt it feel great? Im counting the minutes now til i drop my fresh build back in to my baby.

woops: typed before i read your profile. Bear with me, im learning . You have link right? Grab a log and check if your getting knock. Simple. I am impressed with your car. Thing is a beast bro. Good job. Now get those rings set and let her eat.

 

[99 gst spyder]

That cel coming on could very well be a knock. Its the only cel that will flash and then go away. That, or a misfire. A misfire MIGHT do that too.
Most people do what is called the motoman break in. Google it. But keep in mind your running a "mere" 14lbs, but on a much, much larger turbo. I would personally dial the boost back to around 8 and get that WB! You need to see where your afrs are at. What if that WAS knock? Scary shit bro. Ill step aside and let more experienced people weigh in on this. Congrats on a brand new running engine though. Doesnt it feel great? Im counting the minutes now til i drop my fresh build back in to my baby.

woops: typed before i read your profile. Bear with me, im learning . You have link right? Grab a log and check if your getting knock. Simple. I am impressed with your car. Thing is a beast bro. Good job. Now get those rings set and let her eat.

Thanks, I'm waiting on ecmlink but I don't have a laptop for the time being because it crashed on me. I know I should be looking for air fuel though.

Another thing, motoman break in seems horrible for my mods. shouldn't I take it easy? I don't want to have to do any hard boosting plus, I don't think I can go any lower than 14 psi since the wastegate spring is minimal at 14psi and no bc....

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power

The tried and true way to break in an engine and see perfect compression/results. Your mods have nothing to do with the break in procedure as it uses a very rudimentary basis - You need pressure, heat, and friction on the new rings to help them seal. Without those combination of things then you likely won't have a proper break in. Then again it might work out fine with you. Engine break ins going the 'easy' route are finicky. Sometimes it's perfect, sometimes it's not.

After breaking in now 4 in the Motoman fashion and having perfect results I am stuck to it. These were both with stock blocks and built bottom ends.

 

[Heartless]

Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power

The tried and true way to break in an engine and see perfect compression/results. Your mods have nothing to do with the break in procedure as it uses a very rudimentary basis - You need pressure, heat, and friction on the new rings to help them seal. Without those combination of things then you likely won't have a proper break in. Then again it might work out fine with you. Engine break ins going the 'easy' route are finicky. Sometimes it's perfect, sometimes it's not.

After breaking in now 4 in the Motoman fashion and having perfect results I am stuck to it. These were both with stock blocks and built bottom ends.

+1 for the Motoman break in, theres only a small window for break in. Need to get on it and then let off to let the engines vacuum pull on the rings to ensure they seat. And +1 for turning your boost down without much of a tune, don't wanna blow anything up.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=420167

 

[edged1g]

I found it faster if I just pour 1 quart of oil over the cams and rockers prior to slapping the valve cover on and prime the turbo by running some oil through the cartridge prior to attaching the oil feed line.
If the weather is warm, bring the engine to some 3K RPM immediately after it fires - gradually and within some 10 seconds. Keep your eyes on the oil pressure and coolant temperature gauges and don't worry about some small oil or coolant leaks (the engine will smoke like a bi*** anyway). Keep the RPM at 3K for some 10 minutes - so the cams can bed, then vary the RPM from 3K to 1K and back in some 15-second untervals for the next 10 minutes - so you get all air out of the lifters. Let the RPM drop, adjust the idle and set the timing, check for leaks, shut the engine down, change the oil while still hot and fix any leaks.
Take the car for a spin (and take some coolant + oil with you - just in case something goes wrong) and run it HARD (= WOT) in 3 gear - from 30 mph roll almost all the way to the redline and back to 30 mph while monitoring the oil pressure and coolant temperature. Repeat 10-15 times - and you're done. It will take several heat cycles for all the vacuum/oil/coolant hoses, seals and gaskets to bed and settle, so keep your eyes on leaks for the next few hundred miles, but there's no reason to baby the car.
The are some other "small" things - such as disconnecting the clutch safety switch - so you can start the engine without applying any thrust on the crank bearings, applying assembly lube only where necessary (= main, rod and cam bearings, valve stems, shafts of the oil pump gears, etc.) and clean oil everywhere else. I also don't pack the oil pump full of assembly lube, but only coat the shafts and gears, then pour oil over them since the assembly lube tends to clog the oil filter and any small passages (such as the orifice of the turbo oil feed line or the lifter check valves) when cold (and the objective is supplying the crank and cam bearings + turbo with oil and make the oil circulate through the engine as soon as the engine fires). Another "trick" is using WD-40 - rather than oil - on the cylinder walls and piston rings during assembly in ordred to speed up the break-in process and make the rings seat properly.

....

 

[99 gst spyder]

Alright, thanks alot. I'll try the motoman procedure and see what happens..

Can I just break in without doing any WOT all the way building boost then let it vacuum to slow it down or do I have to WOT doing full boost?

 

[Mr PopUps]

Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power

The tried and true way to break in an engine and see perfect compression/results. Your mods have nothing to do with the break in procedure as it uses a very rudimentary basis - You need pressure, heat, and friction on the new rings to help them seal. Without those combination of things then you likely won't have a proper break in. Then again it might work out fine with you. Engine break ins going the 'easy' route are finicky. Sometimes it's perfect, sometimes it's not.

After breaking in now 4 in the Motoman fashion and having perfect results I am stuck to it. These were both with stock blocks and built bottom ends.

+1 for the Motoman break in, theres only a small window for break in. Need to get on it and then let off to let the engines vacuum pull on the rings to ensure they seat. And +1 for turning your boost down without much of a tune, don't wanna blow anything up.

breaking in new cams and top end - DSM Forums

Sigh, and i got crap for saying this before.

Alright, thanks alot. I'll try the motoman procedure and see what happens..

Can I just break in without doing any WOT all the way building boost then let it vacuum to slow it down or do I have to WOT doing full boost?

Heres what i do.

First, a stock WG actuator is only 7lbs, not 14. But it will suffice.

Step 1: After warm up and checking that everything is tight, get on the street in 2nd gear and run it up to 6k and coast down. Repeat twice more.
Step 2: Get on the highway, run it to redline in 3rd 3 times.
Step 3: Enjoy your new motor.

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

Sigh, and i got crap for saying this before.



Heres what i do.

First, a stock WG actuator is only 7lbs, not 14. But it will suffice.

Step 1: After warm up and checking that everything is tight, get on the street in 2nd gear and run it up to 6k and coast down. Repeat twice more.
Step 2: Get on the highway, run it to redline in 3rd 3 times.
Step 3: Enjoy your new motor.

Whoever called you out on that being incorrect can go wipe the drool from their chin. It's a proven method. And one that makes sense - strangely enough.

To Clarify - "Coast it down" should be referred to as "Engine Braking." This means that once you reach your target speed/RPM, simply let off the fuel. Don't press the clutch or brake. In my personal experience I would run it up to about 5500-6000RPMs in 3rd gear and then let it out to Engine Brake. For the first 20 miles I made sure to keep in 3rd (good gear to get a solid pull in) and run WOT followed by an Engine Brake back down to 3000RPMs.

After that, fluid change, 50 miles - fluid change. 200 miles = fluid change. 500 miles = Fluid change 1000 miles = Fluid change, and then every 2500-3000 after that. I'm a firm believer in changing the fluids often after a new engine build.

 

[91boostfedGSX]

i was always told/taught to break it in how your going to drive it...

 

[Heartless]

3rd gear is the best to, 2nd pulls down too quickly. You really want the vacuum to pull on the rings for a bit. Each is to their own, I usually don't pass 5k till after 100miles. And I usually don't do more than 80% throttle, still building boost to help seat the rings as well after the initial start up, timing set, and checking for leaks (doing a heat cycle). Depending on your head gasket and/or if your running head studs or not may require you to let it cool all the way down (over night is the easiest) and retorque.
But Im wondering how relevant this info even is at this point. By your first post it sounds as though you have driven your car and probably passed the 20mile mark. Even if you haven't hit 20 miles hard to say if the rings will even seat any more than they already have.