Broke the fuel line at the housing, What size fitting thread?

[Trelisong]

I thought about it a bit, and I've gone through what other people have done.

I still have a LOT of fuel line left there to work with. I am thinking I would prefer to cut the messed up end off with a hacksaw / dremel. Then bead or flare the end.

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[Trelisong]

I ordered the EZ bead tool yesterday. I am going to see if I can get under the car and get some more slack out of the fuel feed line. Then I could just cut the adapter off and slide the rubber line over the beaded fuel metal fuel pipe on the housing.

 

[Artago]

I got the same problem except my fuel line isn't broken yet. It was about to snap so I stopped.

What I was planning on doing was to saw it off and solder on a new end piece. What do you think?

In any case, please continue to update this thread as the info is very useful.

Tom

 

[Trelisong]

I've done quite a bit of soldering... I don't think this is somewhere you could get away with that. It is a high pressure fuel line.

I will definitely keep this updated. The tool that I ordered wont be here for atleast a couple of days.

 

[1995gsx20g]

i agree i don't think solder can handle the pressure.

make sure you get the proper fuel hose. most fuel hose i have seen at parts stores are not for fuel injected systems and can't handle over 50psi.

 

[redyute1]

i agree i don't think solder can handle the pressure.

make sure you get the proper fuel hose. most fuel hose i have seen at parts stores are not for fuel injected systems and can't handle over 50psi.

how do you think the copper plumbing in your house holds up, solder

 

[Trelisong]

how do you think the copper plumbing in your house holds up, solder

you may be right, I have soldered a lot of small electronics, but I dont think I would trust my soldering in this situation.

also on the house plumbing I would bet that the solder is used between a Proper joint, as in a male end into a female where the pipe overlaps and the solder is just the glue between the two... i'm not sure you could do the same with the fuel line... unless you flared it out for the new end to be inserted into the old line... or something.

I think the way I have it planned would be much easier for sure.

 

[brownfinger]

Solder works great... on copper! I'd use a 5/16" brass compression fitting on the cut-/broke-off end. You can get them from plumbing, or auto-parts, suppliers. Fabricate the new end you want, with the new fitting you're going to use, then connect the old pipe to the new end with the compression fitting. Also, you can get a fitting with a 5/16" barbbed nipple on one side, and a 5/16" compression on the other end. I'd use one or two of those. BTW, the factory steel fuel line is 5/16, not 3/8"

Also, I'd use a dremel tool w/ a cut-off wheel to cut that gnarled end off. Really, I'd use about 3 or 4 of the wheels, probably.

 

[Artago]

^^ I understand all of that. I'm just exploring options before I cut my line and pull the pump.

The idea was not to flare either end. Instead, use a sleeve over top of both ends to hold it together. Assuming the solder adheres well (and it should if it's prepped well) it should hold and seal just fine.

It's easier than the other option and if it fails you can still try something else.

What do you think?

Also, I've never used compression fittings before. How do they work? Reliable?

 

[Trelisong]

OK. so since the fuel line is 5/16 and not 3/8 my EZ bead tool is not going to work.

I borrowed a pipe flaring tool. to flare the end of the line. I had to bend the line so it pointed upward, and also remove the electrical plug from the housing just to get enough clearance to use the tool.

I also carefully bent the fuel line that goes to this connection to get more slack so that it could reach directly.

I CANNOT find the Fuel housing gasket, the round rubber sleeve looking gasket:
OEM MITSUBISHI GASKET | FUEL TANK / SENDING UNIT GASKET | 95-99 AWD DSM

The part # for that gasket is : MR342213 I am on hold until I find what I did with the gasket or get a new one.

 

[Artago]

Looks good. Have you reassembled it and pressure tested it?

Also, what material is the fuel line made out of? Aluminium?

Thanks,

Tom

 

[95Eclipse]

I'm not sure what kind of metal it is but it's not Aluminum.

 

[Trelisong]

Looks good. Have you reassembled it and pressure tested it?

Also, what material is the fuel line made out of? Aluminium?

Thanks,

Tom

The lines are 5/16 and I believe steel.
Also I cannot find the housing to tank gasket, So I cannot test anything until I find that gasket.

I found a similar tool listed at harbor freight: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=5969

 

[Artago]

The lines are 5/16 and I believe steel.
Also I cannot find the housing to tank gasket, So I cannot test anything until I find that gasket.

I found a similar tool listed at harbor freight: - Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices

If you can't find the exact part then you may want to find the dimensions of the gasket ring. You may be able to find a suitable replacement from you local auto parts store. If you don't know the dimensions then you can measure it and find a replacement based on that.

Tom

 

[Trelisong]

I called the nearest Mitsubishi dealer and ordered the gasket (part# MR342213) I will probably get it the middle of next week.

 

[Trelisong]

Everything worked out this way. The only thing I will note again is that if you bend the fuel line underneath the car to get some extra slack.. BE CAREFUL!

I didn't have any problems but I can see how easy it would be to snap the fuel line when your bending it.

 

[joegamma1]

If you are going to use a barbed end you might as well cut the rubber hose and use a double barbed brass coupler with clamps and be done with it, I had to do mine that way and works fine, and we use those barbed couplers at work on our air lines that hold 90+ psi.

 

[Trelisong]

Nope! no barb fittings here. Like I said I cut the line on the housing and flared it out. then I cut the fitting off the rubber line on the fuel line on the car. Then I took that rubber line and hooked straight up to my flared line on the housing. used 2 brand new hose clamps there for good measure.

OH! your talking about if you never broke your line to begin with. Yeah, that would make it easiest.