Braided turbo oil lines - does copper washer need to be collapsed?

[ivj]

I'm using a "2g turbo kit" from SBR for my EvoIII 16g. This kit has a braided oil hose for the turbo with 2 copper washers on each end. The deal is, the hose doesn't screw in all the way (both on the turbo side & by the oil pan), so the copper gaskets are just left wobbling.

I can try forcing the hose to screw in more, but it feels like I would break it.

There are no oil leaks or anything though. Should I be worried or just live with it?

 

[Defiant]

Are you talking about the crush washers for under the heads of the flange bolts?

 

[ivj]

Yes I think so the copper ones...

 

[Burnett03]

They are called copper crush washers, so yes they need to be crushed down a bit to seal. I also suggest spraying them with some sort of oil so they can spin when you tighten the bolt down.

 

[Defiant]

You won't be able to sense that they're being crushed. Just tighten the bolts by hand, a bit past snug. Those little bolts are easy to twist the heads off of, even if using just a nutdriver.

 

[4SFED4]

The copper crush washers are for the banjo bolts. There should be a copper washer between the head of the bolt and the banjo and the banjo and component it is being attached to.

The braided SS oil drain kits with aluminum flanges do not need crush washers. I put teflon tape on the AN threads and screw them in, 95% of the time the AN will never thread all the way into the flange. Forcing it in the flange will cause the flange to crack and break.

I looked up the sole listed "2G turbo install kit" and the only banjo bolt I see in the pictured kit will attach to the cylinder head and require both crush washers. The turbo side of the feed line should be teflon taped and screwed directly into the oil feed port of the turbo. Although the beveled side of the fittings that attach to the stainless line should not be teflon taped on either end. The beveled edges make the seal, so be careful not to damage them.