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BOV problem please help

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TurboMania

Probationary Member
7
0
Nov 7, 2005
Ft. Wayne, Indiana
Okay, i just put on a greddy type-s BOV, it's a used one from a friend. I was trying to make my BOV hit harder, so you know i took a 8 or 10 mm socket (cant remember which one it was) and tightened the nut, the only problem is i didn't realize that it was a locking nut and that the screw was an allen wrench screw, so basically i just striped the inside of the BOV, i had some boost creep from the striped hole. Now i have already rethreaded the inside and have a replacement screw (yes it is the same size too) i put a 1/4 - 28 tap and its all well. the problem is as i get through 1st - 3rd gear everything is fine, but 4th and 5th gear the turbo's compression chamber will shutter because my BOV wont open until the turbo shutters twice, i have check for all leaks possible and have fixed them. even used teflon tape. the only one im not sure about it the one you dont use on the bottom side of the BOV, is it possible that it is leaking. can anyone help me on this, I would like a turbo with the turbine shaft in one peice still. :)
 
turn your BOV all the way hard, and then turn it 2 full turns out. go for some WOT runs and turn it softer as you go. you should get the hang of it after a while.

I always connect the bottom nipple of the type s to a vac line. no problems of surge ever
 
TurboMania said:
Okay, i just put on a greddy type-s BOV, it's a used one from a friend. I was trying to make my BOV hit harder, so you know i took a 8 or 10 mm socket (cant remember which one it was) and tightened the nut, the only problem is i didn't realize that it was a locking nut and that the screw was an allen wrench screw, so basically i just striped the inside of the BOV, i had some boost creep from the striped hole. Now i have already rethreaded the inside and have a replacement screw (yes it is the same size too) i put a 1/4 - 28 tap and its all well. the problem is as i get through 1st - 3rd gear everything is fine, but 4th and 5th gear the turbo's compression chamber will shutter because my BOV wont open until the turbo shutters twice, i have check for all leaks possible and have fixed them. even used teflon tape. the only one im not sure about it the one you dont use on the bottom side of the BOV, is it possible that it is leaking. can anyone help me on this, I would like a turbo with the turbine shaft in one peice still. :)

It may be that you've ruined the characteristics of the BOV since the screw stripped. You should do a boost leak test to determine if the BOV isn't holding up properly. As for the bottom nipple on the BOV, I always left it un-plugged and tapped the top nipple to the manifold (obviously). I never had any problems with the Type S. I have a Type RS now w/recirculation adapter and I love it! It has a larger valve and is near-silent between shifts, you may want to consider picking one up if yours is defective/leaking beyond repair (or a crushed 1G works great as well-for half the price).
 
well yeah see i used to have a 1 gen, but something happened and i believe the spring in it or something got weak, and with it already crushed once it leaked at 5 psi, then i smashed it down some more and well did a little to much to it. and about the striping i see what you mean but i also dont see the thread size or pitch make a difference.
 
Okay one more thing, my stock boost controler i guess you would call it, right underneath the intake, well i un bolted that so i could stuff my fuse box underneath because it wouldn't work with me going on top, but if that is not sitting up right could that be the problem?
 
I believe your talking about whats called the "boost solenoid" and no it doesn't have to be upright or mounted really for that matter. You can also try a manual boost controller for that matter, i mean i made one for under 10 bucks. I have a greddy type s as well. Try the single spring mod or ssm. I did and i love it! I had a problem where my greddy had a fluttering noise, well that was because it wasn't opening.

single spring mod
http://www.evomoto.com/tech_info.php?tPath=1&tech_id=7

see what works and report back i guess
 
well i got a manual boost controler, its my brothers and he left it here its the clicking kind if that tells you anything, its from turbo xs. but im not sure on how to hook it up it say "arrow points toward wastegate actuator, but im not sure what to hook up the other side too, should i use the line that T's from the solenoid and plug the turbo, or use the side from the turbo and plug the solenoid.
 
The side with the arrow connects to the wastegate actuator and the other side, you can tee off from the vacumm line connected to your BOV. You don't need the stock boost solenoid anymore, so u can remove that. Cap up any lines that used to be connected to that, that you won't be using for your boost controller.

like this person's set up.....

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Sounds easy enogh, i tried that single spring mod, they didnt seem to work, i will try some of those again. Thanks alot though for you help. there is one thing though, if you look at the bov after its open it has a piston as you know, with a seal around it, when it is closed the bottom kinda folds over the top, it looks like the outer peice of the seal got pinched in it giving it a nice crease. is it possible that it is keeping the piston to open when the bov tries to set off. again thanks for your guys help.
 
now when you said it didn't seem to work, did you mean that the bov didn't work well with the ssm, or it didn't seem to change anything. With just the one spring in there you should only have to tighten the screw down 3 turns from when it first touches inside the bov chamber. I could be possible that it is creased and causing a problem but its odd how it doesn't do it in the early gears. Did the spring mod change anything at all?
 
the spring mod wouldn't even let my car run, i used the small spring mod first where you use only the small spring and it said tighten 7-8 turns i did that and my car wouldnt even handle vac, and i tried using the large spring and the same thing happen it would just hold up a little bit better
 
sorry for double posting but i forgot something, how it sets off in the gears now it usually sets off on full boost for me which is 10-13 psi, but if its below 5 or if I was coasting and then floor it, the bov wont set off right away, I have no clue what this is. I have a buddy with one of those boost creep testers and hes gonna bring it to my house within this week
 
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