mwreed
20+ Year Contributor
- 84
- 0
- May 5, 2003
-
Phoenix,
Arizona
I originally posted this under Engine and Cylinder, but, no response. Maybe someone will see it here. I deleted the other post to keep things clean.
I've been trying to stabilize my by boost setting for a bit now. It will spike to 20, hover around 17-18, then go down to about 15-16. I've been getting about 11 counts of knock on average. I added fuel, but, it doesn't seem to be consistant, so, by researching (and knowing I should do it anyway), I did a boost leak test. It doesn't seem to want to hold and pressure. I had a different tester and it didn't seal well, so, I built a new one that seems to seal. I definately hear leakage thought the crankcase.
My dipstick has popped out in the past. I know, not a good sign. I did the test before the turbo and at the TB, to remove the piping from the equation. I can hear sound in the valve cover from both locations and still cannot hold pressure. I blocked off the line to the MBC and while I had it on the turbo inlet, I blocked the PCV. I still had the noise. I did find that my FPR line was leaking and fixed it. So, I did a compression test last night when I got home from work. (25 miles) I got 150 accross the board. Not too bad, but, that was dry. I did the wet test and got 180-190 accross the board. I used a mobile 1 15W-? cap. I don't know if that makes a difference or not. Perhaps, a lot of oil??? From what it looks like, my rings are shot. I'm not surprised, but, would that cause me to not be able to hold any pressure? I have my regulator set to 20psi and as long as I hold the lever down on the air gun, it will send 20psi then gradually lower to 15psi. As soon as I let up, it goes right down to 0. I could be missing something here, but, I wanted to get some opinions.
I do have a little history on the engine too. It was transplanted with 750 miles on it from my first dsm to my current one. After I got it running, I was taking it down for emissions testing,
and the oil cooler line burst, so I lost all my oil. I was not very pleased in the least. I fixed the line and filled it back up. I went down to get it registered and the my repair came apart.
I fixed it and it held good this time. Seemed to be ok and then the oil pump seezed on my about a month or two later. It was a new front case with the rebuilt engine when I got it for my first car. Because of the oil leaks, I couldn't prove that it was the case or my oil issue. Needless to say, I ran into some problems. Timing belt jumped because of the oil pump, bent a valve or two, (found by leak down test) so I ended up replacing the head. Giving that information, I assume the rings a definately gone. I have the original engine sitting on a stand waiting for me to rebuild it. I just havn't had the money to do it yet. I still plan on doing it, hopefully soon.
After all of this information, my question is: Would bad rings cause me to not hold pressure at all durring a boost leak test or am I missing something else too? I wanted to do a leak down test last night too, but, ran out of time. I plan to do that and another boost leak test this weekend, when I have more time. Thoughs???
Mike
I've been trying to stabilize my by boost setting for a bit now. It will spike to 20, hover around 17-18, then go down to about 15-16. I've been getting about 11 counts of knock on average. I added fuel, but, it doesn't seem to be consistant, so, by researching (and knowing I should do it anyway), I did a boost leak test. It doesn't seem to want to hold and pressure. I had a different tester and it didn't seal well, so, I built a new one that seems to seal. I definately hear leakage thought the crankcase.
My dipstick has popped out in the past. I know, not a good sign. I did the test before the turbo and at the TB, to remove the piping from the equation. I can hear sound in the valve cover from both locations and still cannot hold pressure. I blocked off the line to the MBC and while I had it on the turbo inlet, I blocked the PCV. I still had the noise. I did find that my FPR line was leaking and fixed it. So, I did a compression test last night when I got home from work. (25 miles) I got 150 accross the board. Not too bad, but, that was dry. I did the wet test and got 180-190 accross the board. I used a mobile 1 15W-? cap. I don't know if that makes a difference or not. Perhaps, a lot of oil??? From what it looks like, my rings are shot. I'm not surprised, but, would that cause me to not be able to hold any pressure? I have my regulator set to 20psi and as long as I hold the lever down on the air gun, it will send 20psi then gradually lower to 15psi. As soon as I let up, it goes right down to 0. I could be missing something here, but, I wanted to get some opinions. I do have a little history on the engine too. It was transplanted with 750 miles on it from my first dsm to my current one. After I got it running, I was taking it down for emissions testing,
I fixed it and it held good this time. Seemed to be ok and then the oil pump seezed on my about a month or two later. It was a new front case with the rebuilt engine when I got it for my first car. Because of the oil leaks, I couldn't prove that it was the case or my oil issue. Needless to say, I ran into some problems. Timing belt jumped because of the oil pump, bent a valve or two, (found by leak down test) so I ended up replacing the head. Giving that information, I assume the rings a definately gone. I have the original engine sitting on a stand waiting for me to rebuild it. I just havn't had the money to do it yet. I still plan on doing it, hopefully soon.After all of this information, my question is: Would bad rings cause me to not hold pressure at all durring a boost leak test or am I missing something else too? I wanted to do a leak down test last night too, but, ran out of time. I plan to do that and another boost leak test this weekend, when I have more time. Thoughs???
Mike

No need to test on this engine anymore. We be building a new and improved engine / head.