Boost leak... problem after RFL install

[VAGRNT]

yeah i know that everyone has seen a ton of these posts...... but here is my story..

so i get this 97 GST and the first upgrade i do is a DEJON UICP off of good old ebay, now this pipe i got for cheaper then normal because it was used it was already outfitted for a turbo XS rfl so i get one ebay again up it on everything is going good it was like a 30min install, i went to test it out.. holy crap.. it was loud . i still hadn't got a problem yet.. then 2 days later i get the surging, and lag like the bov isn't releasing boost or something, the stock boost gauge is all the way to the top, and i am saying W.T.F. so i didint some reading ahhhh RFL isn't the way to go because i need one that recirculates because the ECU is counting on that extra air.. so i then took off the RFL and put the Stock BOV back on, to the upgrade pipe hooked back up to the dump tube.. and i was like let me see if it is the RFL.. i went for the drive and 1st to 2nd was good.... then the surging and jerking like the car is having epilepsy... So now i think that i have a even worse problem.. what could be causing this to happen? i did a quick check everything is hooked up ( by that i mean all couplers are on).. i was thinking at first that i wasn't getting a vacuum, could that be a possibility.. well anyways my next step is to preform a boost leak test.. ie: pressure test and then kick the car in the balls.... help.... me..... if you know how.....

 

[selmerguy]

to bad you can't use that bov. i have it and i love the sound. just make sure that not only are your couplers on but they are tight. sounds like boost leak to me. check your vacuum lines too.

 

[doug]

Your very next mod needs to be a real boost gauge. You're gonna F something up if you don't get one.

 

[oldman]

Your very next mod needs to be a real boost gauge. You're gonna F something up if you don't get one.

Yup, on top of that you're venting. However, the main issue is probably boost leak. Get that boost gauge on there immediately.

 

[VAGRNT]

YEAH I AM GETTING A BOOST GAUGE, ANY RECOMMENDATIONS?

HAS ANYONE MOUNTED THE BOOST GAUGE IN A UNIQUE PLACE.. OR JUST USING A POD CLUSTER?

ANYONE KNOW A GOOD PLACE TO GET A PRESSURE TESTER W/ GAUGE..

THANKS FOR THE HELP SO FAR... TO I AIM TO TAKE MY INSTALL BACK OUT PUT ON THE STOCK AND SEE IF I STILL HAVE THE PROBLEM...

 

[VAGRNT]

Yeah It Was A Boost Leak I Guess One Of The Couplers Had Come Loose And Caused A Leak.. Damn I Cant Beleive That It Affected My Car That Much.. Sweet So Problem Fixed.. One Other Question Is If I Leave The Rfl Bov On What Will Happen In The Long Run To My Car?

Thanks
For The Help

 

[Slow99x]

These vehicles were designed to have a bypass valve that reciculates back to the intake and do not lean out fuel during shifts. A venting blow off valve will cause the car to run rich during these times. A S-AFC will help but not eliminate this condition. My question is if you had purchased both upper IC pipes (bov and t-body)? If you have, change the flange to the throttle body because the Dejon Tool flanges are too thin and will warp under stress from alot of boost. The piping is great but the flange is like paper.

 

[doug]

I have a hard time believing that even high boost (20-25 PSI) can warp a steel flange. I had no problems with my Dejon pipes-- boost leak free to 20 PSI after two years of use.

 

[Slow99x]

Myself and at least four other people I know have had this problem at only 15psi. i had mine cut off and a thicker one welded on. Besides, I think the pipe is aluminum and not steel. Have you ever done an actual boost leak test on your car?

 

[doug]

Yes I did. That's how I knew it was leak-free. And the piping is steel.

 

[Slow99x]

Well somhow I managed to warp the hell out of that flange as well as the four other people I know. Their leaks ranged from minor to major with mine being the worst. I would still recomend to anyone to get a thicker flange welded on just to be on the safe side.