Been trying to decide how to go about this...

[1gcrazy]

Ok, I have a 91 tsi awd with 2 exploded valves. the engine seized pretty quickly so the walls are very decent. (Valve stopped cylinder with head)

I bought the car for 150. I dont wanna throw cheese at this car and have it run like shit. I also don't wanna polish this turd... yet.

I'm not sure what i'm gonna do with it but I do know i want it running.
So the valves are done. I have another head to replace it with. Sweet.
So now the piston thats in there is toast. Doesn't have a hole in it but I wouldn't be surprised. So I need to replace this piston. I'm not sure how I want to do it.

I have a few options.

1. Replace the piston with a stocker, and A: use the same rings and put them in the same spots. B: get new rings for one cylinder.

2. I could pick up a set of 2g/1g rod combo and use new rings. But again, i'm not sure if I wanna pay the cheese to get these pistons; Which I have lined up.

3. I could get new rings for all 4 and replace the bad piston with a stocker.

Not too sure what I wanna do. I've found topics on reringing but it always seems to end up shitty.
I dont want to take the block out if I can help it.

 

[emerica12124]

Since you will have all the crap apart to take the one piston out, i would get a stock piston, and a set of rings and rod bearings for all 4 pistons. If you do all the labor yourself and right, you will save a load of money.

 

[1gcrazy]

Yeah, all the work will be done myself.

 

[->PrOjEcTGS<-]

I can sell you a used 1g piston attached to a used 1g rod and a set of new rings for all four.

Hone the cylinders, throw a cheap set of main/rod bearings and a new head and you'll be good to go!!

PM Me if you're interested...

 

[tkelly27]

1 new piston, or 4 used pistons. New rings are a good idea. I'm trying out re-using rings, but all mine were in spec. I'm not with the oil control rings having been caked in cooked oil, but it all cleaned off...

New bearings are a good idea too. Rods at least, the one rod bearing had to contact the crank to stop the crank from turning over. Normally won't damage the crank though.

 

[1gcrazy]

Pmed. I'll definitely be doing new rod bearings only.

 

[river]

reusing rings? . really? yeah...I suggest you go with that.

line hone, get a set of 2g pistons and use your 1g rods, get the machine work done to them, and install with all new bearings and rings. you'll be on a "budget" built bottom end then. as long as you're tearing it apart you may as well do it right.

 

[1gcrazy]

reusing rings? . really? yeah...I suggest you go with that.

line hone, get a set of 2g pistons and use your 1g rods, get the machine work done to them, and install with all new bearings and rings. you'll be on a "budget" built bottom end then. as long as you're tearing it apart you may as well do it right.

I've got a set of 2g/1g's setup lined up. I dont need to do the machine work you dope. Read.

I also dont plan on getting the rings to RE-SEAT. I planned on putting the rings in the exact same spot as they came. Theoretically, they should seal the same. If they were sealing at all. This is a VERY half ass way to put a motor back together, i agree, BUT I'm in this thing up to my pinkie toe. I'd like to keep it cheap for now. Still figuring out what i'm gonna do with it. My g/f wants it so I may let her mod it and teach her a bit, maybe let her build the motor how she wants. I still havn't even picked it up from the dudes yard. So if I come up with something and feel I can get it done quickly, I may just throw something together just to get it to my house.

BTW, use the shift key to start a sentence and also use it on the first letter of important words. You should also use it with the letter 'I', important people and geographical landmarks.


So far, my plans are as follows:

Get the car down here.... (I haven't figured out past that.)

I dont want to take the block to a machine shop...yet.
If I put the new piston in, I dont want to have to use the same rings. If I put new rings in, I dont want to have to do them all. If i'm going to do one I may as well do them all. If I half ass it now, i'll be paying AGAIN, for another set of rings for the one cylinder.
Maybe i'll just rebuild the damn thing and be effin done with it. I'm tired of thinking about it.

New bearings 20
1g rods/2g pist 100
Hone.... ??
New rings 100


Anyone know how much getting a hone is? Also, anyone know where to get decent rings for cheap???

 

[->PrOjEcTGS<-]

If you have a drill then you can buy a hone from your closest autoparts store and do it yourself. But if you hone it you'll want to take the crank out in order to wash the block free of all the filings afterwards. And while you've got the crank out you might as well put in a fresh $50 set of main bearings.

Here's my outlook on costs:

Clevite Main/Rod bearings: $57.99 Clevite Main and Rod Bearings (DSM / Evo) - Modern Automotive Performance

1g rods/2g pist: $100 from wherever you're getting those.

Hone: $24.99 http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_...y Tools&psid=FROOGLE01&sid=IDx20070921x00003a

OEM Ringset: $55 shipped.

Don't forget about gaskets.

I'd say that's a very budget minded build.

 

[1gcrazy]

#### it. I'll just take the block out. I really didn't want to but whatever.
I have a hone. I have all the gaskets too...

I just hope I dont have to A: turn anything and B: hope the bearings are the right clearances to start with...
Crank should be ok.

What do you guys recommend in terms of clearances on the rods and mains? Stock? Looser? Tighter?
I'll probably be going with those 2g pistons and rods. I wont have to upgrade later...

 

[nuclearr]

I agree with the others do not try to reuse the rings you will never get them in the exact same spot. You might get them close but they will never line up exaclty.

 

[MidShipCivic]

A ''seized'' engine has seized metal residing in it.

You don't want the car to run like crap? Then stop what you're currently thinking. You better take that block to the machine shop it's usually 15 bucks a cylinder 60 bucks in total and 20 bucks to wash the block, and the other cheap thing to do is remove those balance shafts.

 

[My1GLaser]

What do you guys recommend in terms of clearances on the rods and mains? Stock? Looser? Tighter?

As long as they are in spec, I wouldn't worry too much if it isn't a high HP build. Mine were on the looser side of the OEM specs. .002-.0025 so I just left it alone.

Check the cyl for taper. The easiest way without telescoping bore gauges is to use a ring. Put it at the top of the cyl (just under the ridge) and square it in the bore with a piston. Measure the gap. Push it down about 3" and keep it square with the bore using a piston. Measure the gap.

When I did that, my gap was .032" at the top of the cyl and .015" at the bottom. I can't remember, but every "X" thousandths in ring gap difference is "X" thousandths of taper. Whatever the taper was, I didn't like the idea of .032" end gap at TDC. There would have been excessive blowby, so I overbored the cyl.

I was just going to rering the old pistons too, and unfortunately I figured all this out after I got the block back from the machine shop with just a cyl hone. I was setting my ring gap, getting ready to put the motor back together and had to start over on the motor build. Oh well, I am patient and it was just sitting in my garage getting an overhaul anyway.

 

[river]

I've got a set of 2g/1g's setup lined up. I dont need to do the machine work you dope. Read.

I also dont plan on getting the rings to RE-SEAT. I planned on putting the rings in the exact same spot as they came. Theoretically, they should seal the same. If they were sealing at all. This is a VERY half ass way to put a motor back together, i agree, BUT I'm in this thing up to my pinkie toe. I'd like to keep it cheap for now. Still figuring out what i'm gonna do with it. My g/f wants it so I may let her mod it and teach her a bit, maybe let her build the motor how she wants. I still havn't even picked it up from the dudes yard. So if I come up with something and feel I can get it done quickly, I may just throw something together just to get it to my house.

BTW, use the shift key to start a sentence and also use it on the first letter of important words. You should also use it with the letter 'I', important people and geographical landmarks.


So far, my plans are as follows:

Get the car down here.... (I haven't figured out past that.)

I dont want to take the block to a machine shop...yet.
If I put the new piston in, I dont want to have to use the same rings. If I put new rings in, I dont want to have to do them all. If i'm going to do one I may as well do them all. If I half ass it now, i'll be paying AGAIN, for another set of rings for the one cylinder.
Maybe i'll just rebuild the damn thing and be effin done with it. I'm tired of thinking about it.

New bearings 20
1g rods/2g pist 100
Hone.... ??
New rings 100


Anyone know how much getting a hone is? Also, anyone know where to get decent rings for cheap???

I did read. You do need to do machine work to the piston/rod combo from a 1G to 2G to work together.

 

[1gcrazy]

Well i'm sure all of you can sleep well tonight. I've decided to go a different route. The 92 had ass end damage. I didn't see until today that the pass. rear quarter had been pushed in. We all thought it was a previous accident but took a closer look. The shell is clean. Its really depressing actually. Such a nice car that could have been fixed. Cannot be.
But the good news is. I'll be taking the running engine I have and putting it into the car that this engine would have gone into. That was the original plan but I figured if I could fix both cars without combining, i'd have two decent cars to play with instead of a good one and a parts shell.
Anyway, I'm still doing the build but its just not going to be as rushed as I anticipated.

First, this engine getting built will be going into a 2g most likely. I'm not sick of 1g's but like a variety...
So, i'll go 1g/2g rod combo, do it all right.

A ''seized'' engine has seized metal residing in it.

You don't want the car to run like crap? Then stop what you're currently thinking. You better take that block to the machine shop it's usually 15 bucks a cylinder 60 bucks in total and 20 bucks to wash the block, and the other cheap thing to do is remove those balance shafts.

the engine seized pretty quickly so the walls are very decent. (Valve stopped cylinder with head)
Heads trash, pistons trash. Walls are good. Thats all besides the point now anyway.

Believe it or not, but I am a believer of doing it right the first time BUT, thats why my gvr4 build has taken 2 years. Almost done though.