bad master cylinder? i just replaced though! PLEASE HELP!!

[GSXerr]

i just replaced my master and slave clutch cylinders, and now the clutch engages like RIGHT off the floor, no matter how much i adjust the rod going into the master cylinder. theres no leaks though, the master cylinder & slave arent leaking at all. any ideas?

also, i was wondering, is it possible to press the clutch pedal TOO hard? like depending on where the rod is adjusted. if you push the pedal all the way to the floor while the rod is adjusted all the way into the master, can that damage the master? cause you can feel when the rod is all the way in the cylinder, but i can still push it in more with my foot.

Edit: See my post in post #9...this is really making me mad

 

[JayRolla]

I dont think you can damage it that way. Have you adjusted the rod all the way so there is no threads left. I had to do that when I replaced mine. Also where did you get you parts. Are they OEM. If not take them out and put OEM ones in. My brother bought some crappy Advanced Auto Parts master cylinder and slave and we where having so many problems. Took it to my mechanic and he ripped out the new master and put in a used oem one. Have not had a problem since. I have oem parts and have no problem either.

 

[GSXerr]

yes they are oem, from mitsubishigraveyard. ive tried putting the rod in to both extremeties, but its still the same. if its all the way out, i cannot even start the car.

 

[oldman]

yes they are oem, from mitsubishigraveyard. ive tried putting the rod in to both extremeties, but its still the same. if its all the way out, i cannot even start the car.

New, rebuilt or used? Were you having engagement problems prior to the cylinder failures?

 

[GSXerr]

New, rebuilt or used? Were you having engagement problems prior to the cylinder failures?

here's the history, i replaced the slave and master back around december (brand new from mitsubishigraveyard), and right after, the clutch was engaging way too close to the floor. its been down for a couple months (in the garage..other problems, unrelated to the clutch), and i just now started the car up again. only now, it wont disengage at all. thats why in my other thread i talk about trying to bleed it...and i just thought id ask this question, because im sure once i get it bled properly again, itll still disengage too close to the floor. also, it sat for a couple months..when it was last running though, it still would disengage & engage. so over the couple months it was down, somehow air got into the system or something? i didnt touch the slave or master cylinders when i was working on it, and neither are leaking. so im also wondering why my clutch wont disengage suddenly. i also noticed some dried up brake fluid though on the tube connecting the fluid reservoir to that white plastic tank on the master cylinder. maybe the hose connecting the reservoir to that white plastic tank is leaking & letting air into the system?? when i replaced the master cylinder though i went to the store & bought a hose that was the exact same inside diameter as the stock hose though.

edit: the clutch is an act 2600 that was replaced in '03, i have only put about 20k miles on it since then. Adjusting the rod does have an affect..if its too far out, the car wont turn over at all. only way itll turn over is if its all the way in

 

[JayRolla]

Through out bearing maybe? I dont see why adjusting the rod would have no effect. Thats just wierd. Is it an oem clutch or an upgraded one?

 

[oldman]

1. What led to the original swap of mater and slave?

2. After the swap, you were able to disengage but it was right off the floor, tight?

3. After sitting around for months without touching the system, you now can't even engage after extensive bleeding and the mater push rod adjusted all the way out, right?

4. Do you still have the factory rubber clutch line?

 

[GSXerr]

1. What led to the original swap of mater and slave?

2. After the swap, you were able to disengage but it was right off the floor, tight?

3. After sitting around for months without touching the system, you now can't even engage after extensive bleeding and the mater push rod adjusted all the way out, right?

4. Do you still have the factory rubber clutch line?

1. i switched them because it just stopped disengaging while I was at a stoplight one day. i could not get it into gear. so i pushed it to the side of the road, & found the hose from the master reservoir to the white plastic tank on the master was bulged out like crazy.

2. yes, that's right

3. that is right also

4. no i do not, threw it away because it was all bulged out anyways. i also replaced the line from the master to the slave with a stainless steel one from RRE. I see no leaks coming from it.

 

[GSXerr]

ok this is really starting to piss me off...now my car wont even start at all. i bought a speedbleeder from autozone (made sure it didnt leak & suck air in through the threads), and put a whole 32 oz bottle of prestone synthetic dot3 brake fluid through it while i bled it, making absolutely sure there's no air in the system...
I go to start it up & it won't start now..i adjusted the rod to both extremes again & nothing starts it. so im totally lost as to why it won't start now..i turn the key & just hear a loud click.

Any ideas??????????

 

[No_Skillz]

Your battery might be dead.

Or

If you think your car isn't reading clutch engagement for startup, you can do the "clutchless start" mod by disconnecting the white switch next to your master under your dash.

 

[GSXerr]

Your battery might be dead.

Or

If you think your car isn't reading clutch engagement for startup, you can do the "clutchless start" mod by disconnecting the switch next to your master.

Battery's not dead. Just bought a new red top optima & my turbo timer says it has 12 volts on it.

I will try disconnecting the switch though..it's the little black switch right on the clutch pedal, right?

 

[No_Skillz]

I thought it was white. Honestly, I did this a long time ago and I don't remember. I will take a look for you tomorrow morning if that helps.

 

[GSXerr]

I thought it was white. Honestly, I did this a long time ago and I don't remember. I will take a look for you tomorrow morning if that helps.

i mean the plug itself is white, but the part that actually touches the clutch petal is black..i dunno why it'd suddenly go bad though, it was starting up fine before.

 

[No_Skillz]

Yeah that's the one. Now that I think about it, it might not help since it's not related to hydraulic problems, only your clutch pedal hitting the switch... either way, still a good mod to have to help (maybe) prevent crankwalk. And be sure to ALWAYS park in neutral or make sure you're in neutral before you start the car with this mod.

Sorry if I'm not much help... I'm freaking tired.

 

[GSXerr]

Yeah that's the one. Now that I think about it, it might not help since it's not related to hydraulic problems, only your clutch pedal hitting the switch... either way, still a good mod to have to help (maybe) prevent crankwalk. And be sure to ALWAYS park in neutral or make sure you're in neutral before you start the car with this mod.

Sorry if I'm not much help... I'm freaking tired.

its ok man, anybody else have any ideas? i really need to get my car up n running. any help would be appreciated! its really pissing me off, as i have no idea what else to do. im about ready to have it towed to a transmission shop, & its probably a simple fix..also, the fork that the slave cylinder's rod sits in moves around a lot. is this normal? i took the rubber boot off & it can move almost from one end of the 'square' to the other..dunno if this is normal or not

 

[JayRolla]

I think that is normal because I thought the same thing when I put my motor back in. It feels lose but my clutch works right, so I dont think its that. Also if it dont start anymore I dont think the clutch would have anything to do with that since you disconnected the sensor and it still dont start. So now you need to figure out why it dont start. It may be a new battery but it could still need a jump. With the clutch have someone sit under the car and see if they can see the slave cylinder engage the clutch. If it does not move than either you have a bad slave or master cylinder(new but could be faulty), or you may still have air in the system. Do a search on bleeding and it will show you the best ways if you dont already know. Hope I could help.

 

[GSXerr]

I think that is normal because I thought the same thing when I put my motor back in. It feels lose but my clutch works right, so I dont think its that. Also if it dont start anymore I dont think the clutch would have anything to do with that since you disconnected the sensor and it still dont start. So now you need to figure out why it dont start. It may be a new battery but it could still need a jump. With the clutch have someone sit under the car and see if they can see the slave cylinder engage the clutch. If it does not move than either you have a bad slave or master cylinder(new but could be faulty), or you may still have air in the system. Do a search on bleeding and it will show you the best ways if you dont already know. Hope I could help.

it is moving the clutch..a friend verified that when i pushed the clutch in, the rod pushed out. i will try to jump it tomorrow..dunno why it wouldnt start though, the battery has 12 volts.

 

[JayRolla]

Yea but did you have lights stereo stuff like that. if so not your battery. I bet your through out bearing or another clutch component is going out. how olds your clutch?

 

[GSXerr]

Yea but did you have lights stereo stuff like that. if so not your battery. I bet your through out bearing or another clutch component is going out. how olds your clutch?

all the lights n stereo, etc work fine. the clutch only has about 20k miles on it.

i ran a whole 32oz bottle of new brake fluid through my clutch, & replaced the bleeder on the slave cylinder with a speedbleeder..i doubt there's any air in the system.

 

[JayRolla]

Yea I bet you dont have air in there. Is it a oem clutch or an upgraded on. Had two friends put in ACT clutch's and the ACT through out bearing went out at about 20000 miles. Asked my mechanic why they would go out and he said they suck. When he buys his clutch kits he throughs the ACT bearing away and puts an OEM bearing in. I bet you bearing, plate or disc is bad

 

[jorge4g63]

One question,did you get to jump the battery? Perhaps the alternator is not working correctly and is not keeping the battery charged,as for the clutch,the same happened to me a little while back,i had to bleed the system like 4 times, i recomend checking the the fork that holds the throwout bearing,and maybe another bleed,i also installed a longer slave rod and worked. I know this may have not helped much but it's worth a try,good luck.

 

[JayRolla]

The car would still start if the alternator was bad, just not run to long. Yes the fork could be broke too. If he has a stock clutch he shouldnt need the longer slave rod, usually need this for bigger clutch's.

 

[jorge4g63]

Just remembered,bleed with a friend and listen to a venting sound,if you hear it,you have a defective master cyl.,this was another of my problems, it doesn't leak fluid,but can't maintain pressure. hope it helps.

 

[GSXerr]

i have an act 2600 with about 20k miles on it.

When will i hear this venting sound coming from the master cylinder? im thinking about just buying a new master cylinder & swapping them out..ill bench bleed it this time. i didnt before, but the clutch would still disengage.

 

[JayRolla]

I bet your through out bearing is gone. The ACT one sucks. My brothers went out at 20000 miles. My mechanic builds about 3 dsm trans a week so he knows what hes talking about. He said they always go out. He doesnt even use them anymore. I think they should call the ACT bearing the through away bearing.