Apexi S-AFC RPM Problem

[Cody D]

I just installed my AFC today. My problem is that my RPM's are reading lower on my S-AFC than on my RPM gauge. I did a search and I found this http://dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=35900&highlight=apexi+afc+rpm+problem I was wondering if me running my AFC with it set at 2 cylinders will cause any problems?

My car is a 93 Eagle Talon with a 1990 6 bolt engine put into it, my mods are in my profile.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thank You

Cody D.

 

[Cody D]

Okay, I just went out and changed the AFC to 2 cylinder instead of 4 and now the RPM's are correct. I'll have to try to get it wired correctly tommorow.

The problem I'm having now is that my Check Engine Light is on, the car is bogging really bad in first gear only, the RPM's won't go below 1300, and the RPM's surge at idle.

This just started today after we installed the AFC.

Did we really mess up the wiring? While searching I've found that people are having this problem when their Cam Position Sensor went, could this be it?

 

[Cody D]

Sorry I'm replying to my own topic, but I figure this post might help someone else who's having the same problems.

Since I didn't know what the Cam Angle Sensor was I did a search and found this http://members.shaw.ca/dsm.1000q/Engineprimer/1G/cas.htm

Many owners have problems with their CAS right after washing their engine bay. This is because the rubber gaskets on the CAS housing can dry up over time, and allow water (or steam) inside the sensor. Once water gets in to the sensor it is usually wrecked. Without the CAS, the ECU does not know when to fire the injectors or plugs, and the engine can not run. For this reason most people cover the CAS prior to washing the engine, and take steps to keep steam out like "drive until dry" or opening the hood.

I did wash the engine bay after installing the AFC, we wrapped the CAS in plastic and rags, I guess it might not have worked. Also I think I might have moved it slightly, nut wasn't tight enough I guess.

My new question now that I'm pretty sure that it is the CAS is whether the CAS is wrecked or whether it has just been moved improperly. The reason I'm doubting that the CAS is wrecked is because my car still runs.

Thank You

Cody D

 

[psychlow]

Yeah, unlikely that it's completely gone. Follow the VFAQ instructions on how to set the base timing on your car. That should fix your problem if the CAS moved slightly.

 

[troysevo16]

It sounds to me that your looking in the wrong places, the cam angle sensor will not determin how the car idels, only if it is crank badly or not there at all, what the cam position sensor does is it catches the rotation of the cam angle sensor and helps with determing the timming position of the engine, If you having ideling problems try checking the resistence of the ISC between the pins 1+2, 2+3 and so on (with an ohm meter) if they read more then 30 ohms thats your problem, could be that the biss is missing not screwed in enough ect, and try cleaning the throttle body with carb cleaner, as for the rpms do you have aftermarket gauges in the cluster because if you do sometimes they can be off I know mine are (my afc is about 100rpm different). hope this helps you out.

 

[Cody D]

Hey thanks for the helpfull answers.

I got a couple of the local DSM guru's to take a look at my car and we figured out that it had nothing to do with the CAS. When we were installing the AFC off of the diagram we had two wires on wrong, so if anyone is doing an Apexi S-AFC install remember that the three wires you usually don't use are White, Yellow, and Blue.

It's nice to have everything working now, I just need to get some bigger injectors, a bigger fuel pump and a fuel pressure regulator. Then I can start tuning.

I also lost all power to my Stereo Deck after we tapped the electronic boost controller into it. That's a problem for the guys down at the stereo shop though, I'm kind of sick of soldering and wire cutting.