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AFR Adjustment

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Dmgamerbadk

Proven Member
32
0
Mar 7, 2014
McVeytown, Pennsylvania
So my afr (air to fuel) is 8.46 now does that mean i need to add fuel or take fuel away from the fuel map?
 
Man you have a lot to read up on:

FIRST, update your profile so I/we can know what you use to tune with.

Second, that is an insanely rich mixture. Idle AFR is good 14-16; WOT is good between 10-10.5. Light cruise/highway should be 13.5-15.

The higher the number, the LEANER the mixture. But seriously, take a day or two and read everything you can about....well everything (Tunning, AFR, WOT AFR, etc.) . :thumb:
 
Warm-up fuel map would be around 10-12 at idle (Wiseman interject if incorrect please)

At running temp, you should idle around 14.5 +/- 1.0
 
Man you have a lot to read up on:

FIRST, update your profile so I/we can know what you use to tune with.

Second, that is an insanely rich mixture. Idle AFR is good 14-16; WOT is good between 10-10.5. Light cruise/highway should be 13.5-15.

The higher the number, the LEANER the mixture. But seriously, take a day or two and read everything you can about....well everything (Tunning, AFR, WOT AFR, etc.) . :thumb:

I have a aem ems, with aemtuner. I also have a MHI Big 16G turbo.
 
you need to REMOVE fuel. the lower the number, the richer you are, which means your injecting waaaay too much fuel. as stated, you want idle close to 14.7. WOT pulls should be around 10. cruising/off throttle up around 15-17
 
Warming up, 13's is good. Idle, 14's. Cruise 14's-15's, WOT, 11-11.5.

8's is so rich that the mixture can't combust fully, so you're essentially puking raw fuel. If you've never tuned before, and have to ask how to lean it out...then AEM is a HORRIBLE choice in management.
 
The car backfires when driving it once i start building boost... i just had the motor out. Could my firing order be off?
 
I'm going to throw a massive boost leak into the mix.

If you have a boost leak the turbo will spool up and draw air through the maf (which reads the air and determines how much fuel to dump).

So if it reads x air and dumps x fuel to match up the car should run fine, this is a boost leak free scenario. If it reads x air, leaks y amount of air and still dumps x amount of fuel, then you get fuel cut and backfires from a rich condition. Does that make sense?
 
I'm going to throw a massive boost leak into the mix.

If you have a boost leak the turbo will spool up and draw air through the maf (which reads the air and determines how much fuel to dump).

So if it reads x air and dumps x fuel to match up the car should run fine, this is a boost leak free scenario. If it reads x air, leaks y amount of air and still dumps x amount of fuel, then you get fuel cut and backfires from a rich condition. Does that make sense?

Yes it does ill have to do a boost leak test
 
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