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added Gm Maft- and UICP....car wont idle.

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DROOPY209

15+ Year Contributor
493
4
Jun 23, 2004
NorCal, California
Ok guys. Today I installed my GM Maf-T translator and Dejon tool UICP for blow thru.

I disconnected the battery, replaced the BISS o ring, replaced both throttle body gaskets, and fuel filter all with OEM stuff.

I installed it all, and plugged the battery back on.

The car would not idle for the life of it. The rpms would float around 450-500, and it would eventually die. I had my logger hooked up and then I grounded the pin by the battery to adjust the idle. I would adjust the BISS screw but nothing would happen. The ISC motor is new and I can hear it working.

Everything is plugged in. No vacuum lines are disconnected. Everything else is good, the logger is reading everything just fine, fuel trims are at 100%

Yesterday I installed a new Bosch oem like O2 sensor and passed the emmisions test. The o2 sensor was cycling fine yesterday.

Today, after hooking everything back up, the 02 sensor doesnt cycle at idle. If I rev it up, and then let go of the throttle, the O2 will go to .89, then go back down to .00 or .01 and stay like that. Even if I give I hold it at, the O2 sensor wont cycle.

The car wants to die, and after a few seconds of idling on its own at really low rpm's, it dies. It stutters and stumbbles and when its about to die, the boost gauge goes up to about -5 Hg. It smells like gas, and my EGT gauge floats around 450-500 Celcius at 450 rpms. Timing is at 5*.

Is there a wire for the O2 sensor that maybe got disconnected or something?
 
Try playing with the settings on your translator. My idle changed a lot when I would richen or lean it out. Hard to get right. By the O2 it sounds like you need to add fuel, though I hate relying on those.
 
The translator seems like it's set too lean. Richen it up in increments of 1 turn on the base knob until the O2's start cycling again.
 
The translator seems like it's set too lean. Richen it up in increments of 1 turn on the base knob until the O2's start cycling again.


Too Lean?

Are you sure? is 0.00v lean and .99 is rich? At idle, the 02-r stays about .00v or .02v, while struggling to stay on at 450 rpms.

If I rev it up and hold it at 4k rpms, the 02-r will still stay at .00v .............

........As soon as I let go of the throttle from 4k rpms, the o2-r goes up to .89v

I had it set for 450's, with the Aux at 0 and the 1st knob at 2.

The base knob is the 1st knob to the right of the 4 dipswitches right?
To make it richer I adjust it for like 440cc injectors(0,1) instead of 450cc injectors(0,2)?
Or do I adjust the 2nd knob clockwise?

I had this whole setup running great on my reb 1gB......now on my white one this issue arises.
 
This is probably out there, but a friend of mine had the exact same thing happen to him when he installed his GM MAF-T set up, he never got his front o2 to read anything except 0.00 though. It turned out that he left a rag in his upper intercooler pipe before the GM MAF, so who knows, maybe its something simple.
 
Too Lean?

Are you sure? is 0.00v lean and .99 is rich? At idle, the 02-r stays about .00v or .02v, while struggling to stay on at 450 rpms.

If I rev it up and hold it at 4k rpms, the 02-r will still stay at .00v .............

........As soon as I let go of the throttle from 4k rpms, the o2-r goes up to .89v

I had it set for 450's, with the Aux at 0 and the 1st knob at 2.

The base knob is the 1st knob to the right of the 4 dipswitches right?
To make it richer I adjust it for like 440cc injectors(0,1) instead of 450cc injectors(0,2)?
Or do I adjust the 2nd knob clockwise?

I had this whole setup running great on my reb 1gB......now on my white one this issue arises.

In a narrowband oxygen sensor, a voltage signal is present only in the absence of oxygen in the exhaust. Low voltages (high amount of oxygen) indicate a lean-burn condition, high voltages (low amount of oxygen) indicate a rich condition.

The base knob is the first round switch. I'm at work so I don't have my links available, but go to Full Throttle's website (http://www.fullthrottlenetwork.com/index.php) and download the instruction manual. You'll see that the Base knob is adjusted differently from the low mid and high knobs.

EDIT: Just thought about this. You probably should be adjusting the idle knob, not the base.
 
90% of the time the GM Maf is not a plug and play item. They need to be calibrated to actually mimic the stock mas. In my 2G I had to adjust all my airflow sliders above about 400hz (with DSM Link) to about -18% to get them lined up with my AEM 3.5 bar sensor.
My guess is that the translator needs to be adjusted to match the stock settings. Did you hook up the RPM wire?
On the flip side, you made alot of changes at one time so this could be tough to troubleshoot. I would start with the wiring for your O2 sensor. Make sure you wired it correctly and that they are nice and tight. Re-check the throttle body and ensure that the vacuum lines are in the right spot and that the BISS screw is adjusted properly. Lastly, did you install the fuel filter correctly, no bends in the line, nice and tight, no leaks.
Did you remember to UN-ground the timing pin?
My money would definately be on the O2 sensor first (other than the gm maf). Maybe try swapping back in the stock maf to eliminate that as a potential problem. You can leave the gm maf in, just unplug it and plug in the stock one.
 
I checked all the pipes, there is nothing in there. The throttle body is nice and tight, no vacuum lines unplugged.

The 02 sensor reads, but only when its really rich after I let go of the throttle. I'll mess with the knobs and see if it starts to cycle.

The fuel filter is hooked up correcly, no leaks around it. I could blow through it very easily.

I didn't hook up the rpm wire, but I did when I had this setup on my other car.

I ungrounded the timing pin, same issue.

After I mess with the knobs on the translator, I'll plug the stock maf back in and see whats up.
 
What Wazzelby said is exactly on the money.

You do not have the components needed to run the MAFT. You either need a wideband and/or a 3 bar/5 bar MAP sensor. MAFT is definitely not plug and play for most DSMs.

I don't know if you'll be able to get the MAFT to run without DSMlink or AEM etc. Even then, DSMlink people have a hard time getting them to run correctly.

And FWIW - 0.89 is not rich.
 
My O2 had been refusing to cycle at idle as well. I didn't care much, because it ran fine, but I took this thread as a cue and richened mine up some more. (had tried before with no positive result) A few clicks towards rich on the idle setting and it cycles fine now. The key seemed to be a blip on the throttle after the change. It didn't want to register without that.
 
What Wazzelby said is exactly on the money.

You do not have the components needed to run the MAFT. You either need a wideband and/or a 3 bar/5 bar MAP sensor. MAFT is definitely not plug and play for most DSMs.

I don't know if you'll be able to get the MAFT to run without DSMlink or AEM etc. Even then, DSMlink people have a hard time getting them to run correctly.

And FWIW - 0.89 is not rich.

Yep, Wazzelby was right, I disconnected the transator and I plugged in the stock maf and the o2 started to cycle. The car threw a code 12 and 25, MAF and Barometric sensor because I just connected the maf harness to the stock maf, nothing else.

I had the GM MAF-Translator setup on my red 1gB awd and it worked great on that car. I even had some okie rigged UICP that I made to accomodate the GM MAF, with some Fernco Couplers from Home Depot, and it worked great, never blew.

What I did: I plugged the translator back in, set the Translator for 430cc injectors(Aux 0, Base 0) and turned it on. It sounded A LOT better. I added 5% to the idle, and it started to sound better. I added another 5% and the O2 started to cycle, but stayed closer to lean.
I added 2 more clicks and the O2 started to cycle really fast all over the place. I took it for a test drive and when I would get to a stop sign, it wouldn't stall at all. It sounded great! Just like on my red 1gB.

My fuel trims are at 100%.

I'm planning on getting a Wideband, after I get a good downpipe/exhaust.

Thanx for the help guys! I really appreciate it.
 
What are the position of the 4 dipswitches? I skimmed through here, what size GM MAF are you running? Make sure you setup the base settings in MAF mode then switch to RPM base mode. Initial process is tricky to some.
 
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