96 GST Will not run goog

[ogminks]

Hey guys this is 2nd threads, OK I tell you guys the whole story. I bought this Grey 96 GST for about 800 bucks it didn't run I noticed that the injector clips where missing (cut off) so I had it towed to the dealership to get fix ( They said it needed a electronic sauder) OK i asked them to fix it they quoted 95 bucks all and all i payed 515 bucks (raped) the car still didn't run. they said i needed a new intake manifold for a 96 turbo car and that the one i had on was for a non turbo, OK so i bought one and installed it my self went very well. The car still didn't start. took it to a place called CTR products out of San Jose ca they said it was some sensors that where bad mass airflow and my cat converter was clogged OK fixed it 700 bucks parts and labor. the car still didn't start they said the heads where bad so i took the heads off and had them rebuild 395 bucks (came with a head gasket set) cool OK. installed the heads and a new timing belt. the damn car still didn't start. i noticed that it didn't have a balance shaft or tensioner for timing belt B. so thats where I'm at.
Replaced heads, intake manifold, trottlebody, all upper gaskets both o2 sensors, Cat converter, all 4 injector clips, all 4 spark plugs and wires, mass airflow sensor, and labor and the price of the car 2500 give or take.
So I had a friend check it out and he said someone did a 6bolt engine swap but probly didnt change the ecu and wiring harness. so i checked out vfaq (I think thats the name of the site) and it said that your able to keep the ecu and harness if you change some of the wiring so that it will hook up to the camangle sensor (I THINK THATS RIGHT). So we checked the wiring harness and it has been cut into and spliced near the camangle sensor and the coil wires have been spliced into also???
The car starts and idles ok but when gased to 3000 rpms it spudders or stalls and if it starts to boost (EVEN TO 1 OR 2 lbs of boost) it spudders or stalls. and if i try to drive it after 5 minutes or so it stalls and doesnt start for about 10 minutes. Also if i slam the gas to the floor it just spudders and chokes and doent rise above 3000 rpms but if i rase off the gas little it will go upto 4500 rpms.
PLEASE HELP ME

 

[97EclipseGSTer]

OK, I see whats happening. 1st thing, never go to a mitsubishi dealership if thats where you went. I got lucky, there are 2 of them near me and the good one has a guy that is a huge DSM tuner, so he knows the inside out. I went to the mitubishi dealership for some trouble shooting when my turbo went

They Broke a stud on my o2 housing
snapped a Stud on the turbo
Told me my engine mounts were gone ( they were replaced the week before )
Then they told me I need a new car (the engine and tranny were not alligned )
They put an AC belt on the wrong way (broke the next day )
Charged me 450 for an alternator
Cracked every single possible bolt on my valve cover
And was going to charge me 1400 for a stock turbo ( yeah, I laughed right in his face )

I'm running 300 hp now and still up and kicking

but anyways your problem

-Check all vaccum hoses, double check them
-Do a compression test
-Make sure your timing is correct
-Although this make take A LOOOONG time, go over alll the wires from the ecu. You said there was alot of tapping off of. I would start from the cockpit, and work my way.
-make sure your plug wires are on the correct way ( I could tell you a story about this )
-Go out for a run and notice if you smell alot of gas, if it drives smooth at all....
-Ask someone to watch you when you drive, check for smoke (white, blue, black...)
-would you still have your old spark plugs before you changed them? If you do, PLEASE take a picture of them and send them to me [email protected] knowing what they look like tells ALOT, i mean ALOT of how the car was treated.
-did you double check your hoses?

Sometimes problems can be the gayest things. Follow the steps of the ladder when doign it

-think of the cheapest possible solutions
-cars are like woman, the little things can bother them (woman in general can really suck alot though.....thats why god made Dsm cars.... )

Get back to us on more info man, there is alot of people that like to solve problems

Send me more info on my email, I have friends in engineering school that would love to take a hold of this problem

[email protected]

 

[95blackGsTurbo]

All good idea's but vacuum lines, compression, plugs wouldn't cause this problem. You are probably looking at something as simple as your o2 sensor not being the right one or your knock sensor is either A) wired wrong or B) not wired in at all. Usually when a car won't rev past about 2-3k it's because the knock sensor is bad and it has gone into limp mode and won't allow the car to go any faster. Since you have a 6-bolt swap I would check and see if you have a 1g o2 sensor or a 2g one and then get back.

 

[alexsmede]

I have also heard of DSM doing the same problem and they replace their ECU and it fixes it.. So from what my understanding, you might want to try replacing the ECU..

*If you though this was helpful, please give me some reputations points*

 

[Sharkcus]

It sounds like you are running on 2cyl. You mentioned there was some CAS work done with the swap. I would look there. If the CAS is not wired correctly, you would only get spark to 2 cyl. and you would have the problems you mentioned. I went through the same thing. First, test each plug to make sure it is getting spark while running. A good way to test is, while running, disconnect a plug and see if it makes a difference in the idle, then reconnect it and go to the next. When you disconnect one and it makes no difference in the idle, it means that plug isn't working. All signs point to CAS issues.

 

[ogminks]

OK done a compression test and results are--- from the #1 piston 165 163 160 165. Also i have changed out the o2 sensors (BOTH) so they are new. check engine light isn't on but does flash when i start the car. I have changed the fuel filter it was full of some kind of rusty cotton and fuel that was brown but car still doesn't want to go over 3k rpms or boost. I have check for leaks threw vacuum lines, upp and lpp. still nothing they way i tested my pressure pipes was i hooked an abs cap from homedepot plumming department drilled a hole in it with a brass fitting sealed it hooked my snap-on leakdown tester to it then hooked my compressor to it pumped it up to 10 lbs then 20 then 30 still no air coming out of the couplers. Also changed the plugs and wires (from the dealer).

Now checking the wiring harness--- requires me to take the dash out or should i not trip about that half of the harness and just stick with the under the hood part of the harness??? Also does anyone have a diagram of what wires go where or to what??? I hate electrical...... I did run an OBD2 tester thing from kragen and is says everything is OK.. if it helps... I'm so lost still.. I think I'm gonna take the fuel pump out tomorrow and trow in a new one. $220 bucks is that what they cost or can anyone hook me up with a deal i just hate to buy things like this from ebay especially when it cost $99 bucks. i of all people know, you get what you pay for. CAN I NOT BE A NEWB ANYMORE...

 

[oldman]

Have you check the ignition timing? Since you have gone this far, a logger would be a great investment at this point, better than continue to blindly throw money at it.

 

[ogminks]

im not familiar with a logger and what it does i have check timing and i pulled each plug wire out while the car was running and for each one i have pulled the car runs worse (in other words i get some sort of negative responds) and each are throwing spark out when i pulled them. I still have not received a volts meter to check coils.

 

[oldman]

im not familiar with a logger and what it does

A logger displays ecu sensor readings, mostly used for tuning but can be a great diagnostic tool as well. It seems like you have got everything covered, I will go back and re-read everything and post again if I see something you missed.

 

[ogminks]

where would i fing a logger and approx. how much will it cost. and is there some brands i should stay away from.

 

[oldman]

where would i fing a logger and approx. how much will it cost. and is there some brands i should stay away from.

http://www.dsmloggers.com/2gkit.html

 

[ogminks]

What one should i buy, the car is a 2g but everyone is saying its a 6 bolt motor. what is the difference between the two loggers. and how do i check the motor without pulling it to make sure it is a 6 bolt. The block says 4g63????? i think its something like 4g63HY1718 but the HY1718 part im not to sure on because the lighting was bad also the HY1718 part is written under the 4g63.

 

[oldman]

It's the ECU that determines which logger to go with.

 

[ogminks]

will the ecu have some sort of alpha numeric code on it or will it just plan say 96 mitsu eclipse gst.

 

[oldman]

will the ecu have some sort of alpha numeric code on it or will it just plan say 96 mitsu eclipse gst.

You should have MD335287, you will see it on the case after removal. If it's not, cross reference it with this.

 

[ogminks]

thanks for all your help... you will be the first ill take for a ride... crap you live too far. ill just have to record it and send you the video... ill make sure to have hot chicks in the video.....for eye candy.

 

[oldman]

Good luck.

 

[97EclipseGSTer]

Hey, The Walrbo is good. Probably the most common one used. I bought mine at extremepsi.com I think its free shipping

 

[ogminks]

Im sorry guys but i forgot to mention that the exhaust (WHEN TOWED) scooped up about 4 lbs of mud and dirt. so a friend told me to cut if off and then try and start it up. then if that dont work change the fuel pump and if that dont work then change the the knock sensor then if that dont work go for the ecu all in that order i have ordered the data logger with color screen so i hope it will help. ANY INPUT.

 

[oldman]

Like I said before, get the logger installed, post a couple of logs and we will try and help you figure this out.

 

[ogminks]

ok will do

 

[ogminks]

OK my wife ordered the DataLogger today. I had to make sure it was a 2g ecu and not a 1g, I guess it makes a differance when you order. Just to add, the ecu # is MD321912 E2T61677 5905 T 009. Is that the right ecu?

 

[oldman]

OK my wife ordered the DataLogger today.

the ecu # is MD321912 E2T61677 5905 T 009. Is that the right ecu?

That's a 95' ecu so you're fine. You might even be luckier if it turn out to be a eprom.

 

[ogminks]

whats an eprom?

 

[oldman]

whats an eprom?

http://www.dsmchips.com/