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95 TSI AWD: 2 Questions URGENT!!!!!!

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neonturbo1995

Probationary Member
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0
Oct 2, 2003
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HERE IS THE STATUS AND NEW ISSUE:

ok, the car needed some more fuel, so I got it to run. I let it idle for like 10 minutes and it was perfect, better than it ever was. Then I went to drive it.....major issues. I had the AFC set to 0 all the way across the board. The car ran ok until 5 psi of boost then spyuttered and would not accelerate. The A/F Gauge was reading dead lean and the EGT was like 12K. I tried to adjust the AFC...all the way up to 50% even, and no change. After driving it, the idle surge came back as well. Sometimes ther is no surge, and it just idles at 2200RPM (sometimes more).

Any ideas?


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original post
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Put in 660 Injectors and an AFC, the car ran like crap and idled like crap (surge). I sent the ECU to Keydiver to have the EPROM redone to match the injectors, I also intalled a new IAC and a 1G TB per the instructions on RRE's website. The car ran PERFECTLY at an idle for about 30 seconds. Then the idle went to like 1500 RPM, the car stumbled for a few seconds then just died. Now it will not start...it tries, but no luck. Any ideas?



PLEASE e-mail me any replies as I can not get notifications from this board, thanks!

[email protected]
 
I've got a 95 with a Keydriver chip matched for 550cc injectors, but no S-afc yet and had the same problem. All I did was slowly adjust the BISS screw (slowly counter clockwise) until the car could hold idle at 750-770 rpm (check the spec sheet that should have come with your chip). I also think my new (used) Greddy type-S was set to soft, but that's just an idea too.
 
Wanted:SWGSXAWD said:
I've got a 95 with a Keydriver chip matched for 550cc injectors, but no S-afc yet and had the same problem. All I did was slowly adjust the BISS screw (slowly counter clockwise) until the car could hold idle at 750-770 rpm (check the spec sheet that should have come with your chip). I also think my new (used) Greddy type-S was set to soft, but that's just an idea too.

did your car run though? I can not adjust the idle if it will not start. The odd thing is that it ran for like 30 seconds.
 
AdoreGSX said:
did you adjust the afc at all??? You need to tune the AFC a bit. http://www.roadraceengineering.com/newafc.htm
http://www.roadraceengineering.com/newafcsetting.htm

If I were you I would tune it to the settings above and just go from there, you cannot go by settings though, but its a start.


Great links except for one thing, since he has an ecu that is compansated for the injectors his initial settings should all be 0. The AFC should be used to then fine tune in accordance to a wide band or an o2 Reading ,then a dyno to make optimal corrections during load periods.

I honestly think it could be a starter or alternator, take it to a shop and have them hook up an ecu reader to pick up any codes ,then you'll know where you stand.
 
i honestly think its the alternator. In my old GSX it would be fine until i boosted then BAM! the a/f when to hell in a handbasket! it pulled timing, and felt slow as shit, like 17 yr old girl honda civic slow. I took it to mitsu cause i couldnt figure it out. Mitsu couldnt figure it out either. had a tech drive it with me and he couldnt diagnose. when at idle the car would idle surge really bad, but the isc was fine [new] plugs wires fine everything fine. Then one day driving home from school my car turned off while driving @ 50mph. WTF i coast to safety and i smell something burning. TMO EPROM ECU NOOOOOOO :cry: have er towed replace the EPROM and then later that week it started acting up again! changed the alternator, never had it happen again. after that i said bye bye GSX and hello :talon:
sorry for the rant.

kyle
 
eclipse93b said:
i honestly think its the alternator. In my old GSX it would be fine until i boosted then BAM! the a/f when to hell in a handbasket! it pulled timing, and felt slow as shit, like 17 yr old girl honda civic slow. I took it to mitsu cause i couldnt figure it out. Mitsu couldnt figure it out either. had a tech drive it with me and he couldnt diagnose. when at idle the car would idle surge really bad, but the isc was fine [new] plugs wires fine everything fine. Then one day driving home from school my car turned off while driving @ 50mph. WTF i coast to safety and i smell something burning. TMO EPROM ECU NOOOOOOO :cry: have er towed replace the EPROM and then later that week it started acting up again! changed the alternator, never had it happen again. after that i said bye bye GSX and hello :talon:
sorry for the rant.

kyle


I will try that.

I hooked the scanner up and the Airflow was 0.00g/sec, so I unhooked the AFC wires for the Airflow Meter and reconnected it back to factory (left the rest of the AFC attached). It idled and ran better with the Airflow looking normal, but under boost, still the same problem.
 
hellotbone said:
Check the obvisous IC pipe off/Plugs/Fuel Pump those things first.


the IC pipes are good, the fuel pump works...it would not run if it dod not, and it has been rewired with the 10AWG wire. I am going to pull the plugs and take a peek next!
 
Honestly if the car stutters,pops or blams it's mechanical, if it just dies then it's electrical. Again bro the best thing to do is have a diagnostic check by a reputable shop.
 
Well he is the "reputable shop" so we need to help him fix my car :) Anyhow, to fix the idle surge would blocking off the FIAV help? Also the ISC and throttle body were used, but tested fine. Should we try to put the old ISC on? I read through a few posts where they did this and even though the ISC tested wrong, it cured the surging problem. Before he switched the throttle body and sensor, it would idle really high at times. Next, when we drive the car it acts somewhat normal, until you boost it to around 4-5lbs of boost, then it bogs down and shutters. Boost leak? I think we are going to check for leaks next. As far as fuel goes it says it is running really lean. Also, I bought a new alternator, and the battery, coilpack, plug wires are all pretty new.

Mods on the car are RS49 turbo internally gated. FMIC, ported exhaust manifold/o2, 3 inch downpipe, no cat, upper ic piping, 1gen bov, 1gen throttle body, afc2 660cc injectors, new fuel pump, rewired. Maybe more if any of that helps.

Please give any suggestions, this is costing way to much and more an more things seem to be wrong. Thanks
 
gsxextreme/neonturbo did you put the new alternator in? have you seen any lights come on like...say brake/battery? have you done a leak test yet? could be your fmic has a hole in it, clamps not sealing tightly, bov/throttlebody leaking horribly. just some things to look at


kyle-
 
eclipse93b said:
gsxextreme/neonturbo did you put the new alternator in? have you seen any lights come on like...say brake/battery? have you done a leak test yet? could be your fmic has a hole in it, clamps not sealing tightly, bov/throttlebody leaking horribly. just some things to look at


kyle-

trying all that and the basic checks again this week, hope to find the issue. I am going through the car with a fine-tooth comb and checking EVERY possibility....I just thought someone had had this before, so I wanted to see what worked before. Guess it's diagnostic time! Apparently the car did this before the new mods, so I will go fromt here.

NOTE: The new alternator is in. There is no CEL or "Brake" light. The ABS light is on, going to diagnose that issue monday.

Thanks!
 
I put in new NGK plugs, there were Bosch platimuns in there and they were crap.

I did a boost leak test and sure enough, massive leak fromt he throttle body shaft seals, so I replaced them, pressurized the system again and they held. I did notice that the BOV blows off at 10 psi however when the system is pressurized. The car now runs smooth to 10 psi (even starting to get out of LEAN and into STOICH on the A/F Gauge), but at 10 psi, still feels like it is sputtering, kind of like fuel cut, but the Keydiver ECU in there has no fuel cut. Any ideas?


NOTE: I just went and hooked the A/F (pink and orange) wires if the AFC back up and the car wants to idle at like 2500 RPM when this is connected (pink is UCU side and orange is harness side). It idles at like 1200 when this is not connected. The only way to get the idle to drop with t connected is to take the fuel to -50%, but then it is super lean and backfires, but it still idles at like 1500RPM like that. Also, I just noticed that there IS NO Boost Control Solenoid, the plug is just hanging there. IS this a major problem?

Ideas???
 
A shot in the dark but do you think it could be you mass air sensor?
 
howie3 said:
A shot in the dark but do you think it could be you mass air sensor?


it's worth a shot. Could it be the BOV since it is blowing off at 10 psi and that is where I have the sputtering condition?
 
howie3 said:
A shot in the dark but do you think it could be you mass air sensor?


MAF is perfect. 45.4 Hz at idle, perfect pattern, same from the AFC side at idle with settings at +/-0 across the board, pattern switched perfectly as well on throttle, MAF is good.

Would a bad BOV cause this problem?



NOTE: The idle is fine now with the AFC hooked up, cleared ECU memory and it was good. Still have the other issue.
 
my magic 8 ball is pointing to prolly not... do you have logger? also you sound like you know what your doing, but stupid shit happens to all of us double check your safc hookups JUST IN CASE heres a great link:
http://www.prostreetonline.com/pso/pages/howto/showarticle.asp?articleid=25
also i take it theres no cel code. is this the stock pos 2g bov. or upgraded? if upgraded it shouldnt blow open at 10 let alone 20psi. if you have a logger please post a log for us to see. this definatly sounds fuel/ignition related to me. stuttering is only at WOT? if so have you checked your wires? check the coilpack.
kyle-
 
eclipse93b said:
my magic 8 ball is pointing to prolly not... do you have logger? also you sound like you know what your doing, but stupid shit happens to all of us double check your safc hookups JUST IN CASE heres a great link:
http://www.prostreetonline.com/pso/pages/howto/showarticle.asp?articleid=25
also i take it theres no cel code. is this the stock pos 2g bov. or upgraded? if upgraded it shouldnt blow open at 10 let alone 20psi. if you have a logger please post a log for us to see. this definatly sounds fuel/ignition related to me. stuttering is only at WOT? if so have you checked your wires? check the coilpack.
kyle-

ok, no logger, snap-on scanner though. I have checked the AFC hookups like 50 + times, literally and they are all good. The car still runs super lean and does the sputtering/jerking at 10 psi with the AFC unhooked! This is a 1G BOV, but it DOES blow off at 10 psi. stuttering is at 10 psi, regardless of throttle %. WIRES, PLUGS, COIL PACK all test good.
 
neonturbo1995 said:
ok, no logger, snap-on scanner though. I have checked the AFC hookups like 50 + times, literally and they are all good. The car still runs super lean and does the sputtering/jerking at 10 psi with the AFC unhooked! This is a 1G BOV, but it DOES blow off at 10 psi. stuttering is at 10 psi, regardless of throttle %. WIRES, PLUGS, COIL PACK all test good.
If your trying to boost past 10 psi at WOT and the blow off valve is sputtering, id say yes thats whats wrong. Thats one hell of a boost leak....
 
XtReMeToYz said:
If your trying to boost past 10 psi at WOT and the blow off valve is sputtering, id say yes thats whats wrong. Thats one hell of a boost leak....

thats what i think also. And as for the running lean??? I think the pump has to be too small....it is rewired, and there are 660 injectors. He says it is a Walbro, but he does not know the size....I bet it is not the 255!!!
 
neonturbo1995 said:
thats what i think also. And as for the running lean??? I think the pump has to be too small....it is rewired, and there are 660 injectors. He says it is a Walbro, but he does not know the size....I bet it is not the 255!!!
Pull the pump and look at the number on it. Compare it to the pump numbers here . Even if its a 190 you shouldnt be out flowing it at 10 pounds of boost.
 
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