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95 eclipse gs chugging at idle Help

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Masterjacko96

Probationary Member
6
0
Aug 14, 2008
Grand Rapids, Michigan
my 95 eclipse gs is chugging fuel at idle bad my long term fuel trim is usually between -20% and -25 percent at idle and it wounds horrible. it smooths out in the the higher rpms as well as the fuel trims. Most the time when i go to start it i have to put my foot to the floor and I have to keep my foot on the gas in neutral( manual) at lights so it doesnt stall out. ive changed out the coil, plugs, wires, cam sensor, crank sensor, and map sensor and i still have this problem. The only code i get is a p1297 which suggests map sensor but on my scan tool the map sensor, tps, and 02 sensors are all working normal. I even swapped the iac. I dont appear to have any vaccum leak at all since I changed the manifold gaskets and injectors. Fuel pressure is normal at about 45psi. Occasionally when it stalls out is when it sets the p1297 map sensor code and then it completly cuts fuel in every gear past 4k until u shut the car off and restart it then that goes away.

I need help anyone have any ideas?

it runs normal in higher rpms when theres no fuel cut due to stalling out and triggering the map p1297 code
 
Do you have a logger? I would suggest viewing MAP output and watching the o2 signal. Make sure they look like they are doing as they are supposed to, particularly while the issue is happening.

A couple notes:

ECU self-test has a very difficult time telling if an oxygen sensor is going bad, rather only if the sensor output falls within certain ranges. A sensor can be failing and still test as "good" by the computer.

Intermittent issues are often related to the electrical system. If the issue occurs intermittently without a notable change in condition, I'd look for wiring problems.
 
Is it possible you have a bad EGR Valve? I mean, I'm new to DSMs myself, but from what little experience I have on the 420A the EGR seems to be the source of a bunch of people's problems.

My basic understanding of an EGR (and DSM wisemen, please feel free to correct me if I am completely wrong here) is that If it is open when it is not supposed to be open, at idle for instance, It will act like one monster vacuum leak and the engine will not idle or will idle really roughly. I would assume that if this were the case and your EGR were stuck open, things would run fine again once you got into the range where the EGR is supposed to be open, but all the problems at idle you are mentioning would be happening.

A lot of guys on here run with their EGRs blocked off (not really a performance mod persay, but it does help keep your intake clean). The block off kit is really cheap (like 15 bucks), and so long as you don't live in a state that does smog inspections, you can run with the EGR blocked off for the life of the car. On the other hand, if your state does the dreaded emissions/smog tests, then a new EGR valve isn't too expensive.

Link for EGR Block Off Kit: EGR Block Off Kit Eclipse Talon 420a - CI Motorsports

Hope this helps, and like I said, please feel free to correct me if I'm a complete idiot as to the functions of the EGR valve on the 420A.
 
I'd check into the O2 sensors as they tell the car how much air/fuel to take in. I think my car is having an issue like you're describing. Every once in a while I'll get a cel for bad O2 but then it goes away for a few weeks and all seems well until out of the blue when coming to a stop the car will shudder and act like it's going to die and then catch itself. I'm gonna change out O2's and see if it helps. Anyway, check that your map sensor wires aren't damaged or shorting and see if u can get a new O2 swapped in to see if it helps.
 
Any updates for us? Did you end up getting another MAP sensor or switching out the O2 sensors?
 
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