Kalist0rydsm
Probationary Member
- 1
- 0
- Apr 3, 2013
-
wichita,
Kansas
please please any input will help me greatly thank you
ok i did some deep checking and fond that both of my intake valves on #4 are slightly bent causing the fuel to dump in and also the seal is a lil bad causing pressure to go into the valve cover would this be a possible reason for it to want to stay at 4000 plus when reved up???
ok so for starters i have searched everywhere and cant find any answers
i bought a 95 gst and it has a 6 bolt swap i had to buy an ignition control module new coil pack new fuel injectors a 1g cas new spark plugs and wires
everything in this cars engine bay was ghetto rigged to the fullest extreme of the context i had to go through and make the rigging less rigged
i had to wire the 1g cas to my cam ans crank sensor did it as nicely as i could and the engine stars so i have it hooked up correct
everything is hooked up but my ect sensor and im hooking that up on monday because it was cut out and i have to rewire a new one into it
the car starts and was running really rich which i concluded to be the ect which i didnt have hooked up but since i got it running it will not idle on its own and if i rev it above 3500rpm then it will stick itself to 4000 and very very slowly climb but i kill it before it gets too high i also get no boost or blow off unless im driving which i find extremely odd
now for the worst part i had no clutch and it was making it really hard to do any test driving found out to be that my slave cylinder that was bad so i replaced it and when i went to start the car up again it sounded like it was only running on one maybe 2 cylinders so i checked spark wires and when i pull the #1 and #4 it dies #2 and #3 and let the wire spark in the hole it will idle perfect all by itself and yes i am doing this with a friend in order to test anything on my poor dsm im really really hoping for help please
ok i did some deep checking and fond that both of my intake valves on #4 are slightly bent causing the fuel to dump in and also the seal is a lil bad causing pressure to go into the valve cover would this be a possible reason for it to want to stay at 4000 plus when reved up???
ok so for starters i have searched everywhere and cant find any answers
i bought a 95 gst and it has a 6 bolt swap i had to buy an ignition control module new coil pack new fuel injectors a 1g cas new spark plugs and wires
everything in this cars engine bay was ghetto rigged to the fullest extreme of the context i had to go through and make the rigging less rigged
i had to wire the 1g cas to my cam ans crank sensor did it as nicely as i could and the engine stars so i have it hooked up correct
everything is hooked up but my ect sensor and im hooking that up on monday because it was cut out and i have to rewire a new one into it
the car starts and was running really rich which i concluded to be the ect which i didnt have hooked up but since i got it running it will not idle on its own and if i rev it above 3500rpm then it will stick itself to 4000 and very very slowly climb but i kill it before it gets too high i also get no boost or blow off unless im driving which i find extremely odd
now for the worst part i had no clutch and it was making it really hard to do any test driving found out to be that my slave cylinder that was bad so i replaced it and when i went to start the car up again it sounded like it was only running on one maybe 2 cylinders so i checked spark wires and when i pull the #1 and #4 it dies #2 and #3 and let the wire spark in the hole it will idle perfect all by itself and yes i am doing this with a friend in order to test anything on my poor dsm im really really hoping for help please
Last edited: