420a to 420a motor swap

[gudz519]

Hey everyone I came across a clean 98 420a with what I am pretty sure was a broken connecting rod. My shell is basically rotting out and the owner of the other car is basically going to give it to me. My plan is to swap my motor into the good shell. My question is Is there any tricks or things I should expect when doing the motor swap? I have a 98 and hers is also a 98. My tranny is slipping so would it be okay to just bolt hers on? If anyone has done this before? Any suggestions would be great. I am also looking for the torque specs for the flex plate to motor and clutch to flex plate torque specs. Thanks!

 

[OblivioAssebit]

I have done this once before. You shouldnt have any problems at all, that is if you know how to do a motor swap. Ill look through my manual here in about an hour when I start working on my car and Ill repost those torque specs.

 

[gudz519]

thanks a lot i really appreciate it what did you exactly mean when you said if you kno how to do a motor swap? i have done a lot of vehicle work and the 420a seems pretty easy how did you deal with the wiring harness?

 

[rshissler]

just pull the harness out of the way. it all disconnects from the engine and can be just layed over the fender. Its actually easier to install the engine from under the car becuase of the trans mount. I had a load leveler and it was still a pain becuse of that mount.

 

[bagged420a]

thanks a lot i really appreciate it what did you exactly mean when you said if you kno how to do a motor swap?

He meant if you can take a motor out of a car and put it back in, that you shouldn't have any problems.

 

[rstare]

If it's from the same model to the same model, and of the same year, it will be pretty easy. Your biggest pain will be removing the passengers side motor mounts on each car. Have fun with that.

 

[nothingfiction]

You will have to take the radiator out as well (should be obvious) but if not thought i would mention that too.

i have done this once with my car. it was pretty easy. Hardest part was after you put the engine in the car trying to hook everything back up afterwords. My dad and i did this in a weekend in his backyard with a cherrypicker. Just make sure you hook the harnesses up right. First time we one of them was too short because we grounded it wrong. But it was fine, were not idiots and didn't try to start the car (not that it would anyway since the harness plugs wouldn't reach. But just thought i would throw that out there.

 

[gudz519]

thanks everyone now the new car has power windows and min e dosent would that make any difference at all? my second question is do i have to remove both tranny's first or not thanks.

 

[nothingfiction]

i never removed my tranny. just unbolt it from the block. i laugh at all those shows that you see on telle that drop the motor and tranny in from the top. you can damage so many things doing it that way. just unbolt it and bolt it back in when putting it back together. i found that much easier to do and its really not hard at all. the clutch has a few peepholes in it so you can see what your doing and make sure everything is aligned. Just need the right sockets and extensions and a flashlight.

 

[davidaham]

i never removed my tranny. just unbolt it from the block. i laugh at all those shows that you see on telle that drop the motor and tranny in from the top. you can damage so many things doing it that way. just unbolt it and bolt it back in when putting it back together. i found that much easier to do and its really not hard at all. the clutch has a few peepholes in it so you can see what your doing and make sure everything is aligned. Just need the right sockets and extensions and a flashlight.

i disagree i have pulled my motor and trans from the top 3 times all in one piece just when you unbolt your trans mount make sure it drops down lower that the front of the motor that way your crank pulley has room to clear your frame. ps make sure you unhook your cv axles first! and drop your cross member

also my motor is out of an 95 eclipse only thing i had to do was to keep all the sensors of my 97

 

[Boosted_talon98]

i disagree i have pulled my motor and trans from the top 3 times all in one piece just when you unbolt your trans mount make sure it drops down lower that the front of the motor that way your crank pulley has room to clear your frame. ps make sure you unhook your cv axles first! and drop your cross member

also my motor is out of an 95 eclipse only thing i had to do was to keep all the sensors of my 97

x2.. just get a buddy to help wiggle the motor around after you have the hoist hooked up and like he said put the tranny down alittle farther and wiggle that bi*** around until it comes out.... I just pulled the crank pully off because it makes it easier...

 

[davidaham]

that will work to if you have the tool to pull of the crank pulley. but most folks dont have one

 

[bullettdsm]

Got a cherry picker? Pull both assemblies, tranny and all (yes pull the pulley and leave the ass end of the tranny down lower). Do the axles like this;

2GNT.com - Changing_an_Axle_2

only skip the axle nut part and swing the axles out and away instead.

Then flip flop whatever you want (and clean and paint anything you want). Don't bother with time schedule. Take as much time as you NEED to clean/paint everything and fix everything you want to fix at this point. That way there is no pressure.

Gimmee the junk cores (crappy tranny and crappy engine) and I'll come up for a day (as long as we can schedule it) and give you a hand.

Of course you already know I'll give you whatever moron support you need.

MB

 

[gudz519]

sounds excellent Mark the only problem is the old motor has a bad connecting rod or at least thats what i think it is your more than welcome to that and the old tranny if you dont mind taking the trip down

 

[bullettdsm]

sounds excellent Mark the only problem is the old motor has a bad connecting rod or at least thats what i think it is your more than welcome to that and the old tranny if you dont mind taking the trip down

Basically that's how I get my parts, from cores like yours. So no worries, I'll take it. Keep me posted (though I may not be able to come up with the GSX. Its kinda hard to pull the engine back out of the hatch, ).

MB

 

[bagged420a]

(though I may not be able to come up with the GSX. Its kinda hard to pull the engine back out of the hatch, ).

MB

come on, all you do is take the hatch off and use the picker. haha

 

[gudz519]

well im supposed to get the shell tomorrow and i am trying to get it done this week and weekend which is extremely short notice i really dont expect you to make it in this time

 

[bullettdsm]

come on, all you do is take the hatch off and use the picker. haha

Actually.........you can do a full engine (manifolds and all - including ac) without removing the hatch (yes words of experience ). Just gotta be tricky with the hook up.

But quite the pain.

Pm sent.

MB

 

[gudz519]

so i got the motor out of old shell now before i put it in the new one i should not have to do anything right? i did not touch the timing or anything i just disconnected the wiring harness and labeled it properly should i be all set another thing is i removed my A/C before and am going to remove the P/S now but there is a weird vaccum can i just cap it ? it is the on that is above the IM and runs down the left side and connects to a hard line

 

[davidaham]

correct me if i am wrong but i wont to say that line run's to your evap system. there should be two lines. first one runs right out of your intake manifold into a green one way check valve then into a metal hard line. the second one runs out of your throttle body into a plastic hard line that sits on top of your intake and then goes into the hard metal line that bolts to the top of your valve cover then goes back into a rubber line then into the lower hard line by your a/c pump

if you cap it off you might throw a check engine light

 

[gudz519]

damn thanks you are right so how do i delete the P/S but keep the evap system connected?

 

[BLINKY619]

i disagree i have pulled my motor and trans from the top 3 times all in one piece just when you unbolt your trans mount make sure it drops down lower that the front of the motor that way your crank pulley has room to clear your frame. ps make sure you unhook your cv axles first! and drop your cross member

also my motor is out of an 95 eclipse only thing i had to do was to keep all the sensors of my 97

+1 on that I HAVE done my share of swaps and it seemed to be easier to take the engine out with the tranny still on the block... but that's just me it depends on how good you are and how fast you try to do it i mean if you take it slow and go through everything before installing it then it will be a easy and a smooth swap...>!

 

[davidaham]

damn thanks you are right so how do i delete the P/S but keep the evap system connected?

let me make sure we are on the same page you are trying to remove the power steering right? or delete it 4ever? if just removing just unhook the two hoses one hooks up with a hose clamp. the other one you have to take a bolt out be sure not to lose the two copper crush rings. if removing it for good just unhook everything you can find that pertains to the power steering system. just find a way to cap of your hose line that go to your rack a pinion. i don't think dirt would do it any good if it was to get in there . and i don't think there is any vacuum lines that hook to the power steering system. i could be wrong tho i have never deleted a p/s system before. but this is how i would do it if i was to

 

[VelocitàPaola]

let me make sure we are on the same page you are trying to remove the power steering right? or delete it 4ever? if just removing just unhook the two hoses one hooks up with a hose clamp. the other one you have to take a bolt out be sure not to lose the two copper crush rings. if removing it for good just unhook everything you can find that pertains to the power steering system. just find a way to cap of your hose line that go to your rack a pinion. i don't think dirt would do it any good if it was to get in there . and i don't think there is any vacuum lines that hook to the power steering system. i could be wrong tho i have never deleted a p/s system before. but this is how i would do it if i was to

Close, but instead of capping the two ports on the rack, connect them together with a small length of hose. The small amount of power steering fluid in there will keep everything lubricated and with the short hose you just added, the fluid on either side will have a place to go when you turn the wheel.

 

[gudz519]

what should i do about that evap line?