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420a engine rebuild

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He researched first. We are very serious about that. I'm more inclined to recommend, "Don't mod for at least 1 year." In 1 year you will learn everything you can about the car and then be able to determine if you'll keep it in it's fantastically stable and reliable condition or if you want to go down the mod path. At the end of October, my car will have been down more than it's been driveable and I haven't even started modding it yet for performance. Please please please don't mod without research. It's fine to throw a CAI, add some bling, get superficial things, but please don't start messing with fuel, engine, or turbo path until you know what you are doing.

Examples:

1. You throw a turbo on and raise the boost. Now you have too much air and not enough fuel which causes premature detonation and will break your engine.

2. You rebuild the engine but spend your whole budget on this only to find that your suspension needs replacing.

Please, be cautious and plan out your path. I'm serious that this could turn into a money pit very easily and being 19, it's hard to pull yourself out and you'll end up having to sell the car for a loss and be deep in debt. I'd like to see you on these boards 2 years from now with a helluva a beast and a thoroughly knowledgable member of this community that can add a lot.

d

on that note, I've added all I can add to this thread. Good luck with your build
 
He researched first. We are very serious about that. I'm more inclined to recommend, "Don't mod for at least 1 year." In 1 year you will learn everything you can about the car and then be able to determine if you'll keep it in it's fantastically stable and reliable condition or if you want to go down the mod path. At the end of October, my car will have been down more than it's been driveable and I haven't even started modding it yet for performance. Please please please don't mod without research. It's fine to throw a CAI, add some bling, get superficial things, but please don't start messing with fuel, engine, or turbo path until you know what you are doing.

Examples:

1. You throw a turbo on and raise the boost. Now you have too much air and not enough fuel which causes premature detonation and will break your engine.

2. You rebuild the engine but spend your whole budget on this only to find that your suspension needs replacing.

Please, be cautious and plan out your path. I'm serious that this could turn into a money pit very easily and being 19, it's hard to pull yourself out and you'll end up having to sell the car for a loss and be deep in debt. I'd like to see you on these boards 2 years from now with a helluva a beast and a thoroughly knowledgable member of this community that can add a lot.

d

on that note, I've added all I can add to this thread. Good luck with your build



what manual book do you recommend because i saw so many but have no idea which one is best...
 
Let me add that I don't know where Eagle Pass, Texas is in New England :p

As for your rebuild kit. No you don't need the rods. The stockers will work just fine.

A couple of things though; first off the company you are looking to buy from is notorious for taking their time. If you don't mind waiting, you will get your parts. Also, since you are looking to boost and want to do a rebuild I would highly recomand spending the extra couple (?) hundred dollars for a set of forged pistons (good insurance). I like JE's. I don't know if you can change that in the set that they sell, but you could look into that. You could also collect up those parts individually on other sites for less. Modern performance is one that I like and partsdinosaur has an excellent reputation on all my sites (I use them for all of my stock engine parts).

Just a little food for thought.

MB
 
Let me add that I don't know where Eagle Pass, Texas is in New England :p

As for your rebuild kit. No you don't need the rods. The stockers will work just fine.

A couple of things though; first off the company you are looking to buy from is notorious for taking their time. If you don't mind waiting, you will get your parts. Also, since you are looking to boost and want to do a rebuild I would highly recomand spending the extra couple (?) hundred dollars for a set of forged pistons (good insurance). I like JE's. I don't know if you can change that in the set that they sell, but you could look into that. You could also collect up those parts individually on other sites for less. Modern performance is one that I like and partsdinosaur has an excellent reputation on all my sites (I use them for all of my stock engine parts).

Just a little food for thought.

MB

thank you so much for your helpful advice....but the JE's Pistons arent compatible with the stock rods or are they?
:dsm:
 
Sure they are. Partsdinosaur as mentioned is a great place for all of your rebuild parts excluding aftermarket (forged pistons...etc.). Make sure you get all new timing parts as well wherever you go to. It will make things much easier getting the timing correct while the engine is outside the car. Timing, all gaskets, bearings at least.

Also, if you are absolutely positive you are going to keep it at 8psi or less forever, listen to bullett about the rods. If you have any doubt in your mind and might one day want to turn the boost up a bit you might as well put in forged rods too while you have everything out.
 
To be honest, if you are going through the trouble to rebuild your motor and plan to boost it in the future spend the extra few hundred and go forged. Trust me once you feel it on 8 psi you will want to know how 10 feels, then 15, then 20... Only you will have to rebuild it again stronger, thus spending twice as much now as you would have had you done it in the first place.

Just my thoughts on the issue though.
 
^agree

i jsut rebuilt my engine and im running only 7 psi.. i want more but i cant since i need to upgrade my fuel system. Also make sure you know what compression ratio your going with. i suggest lower compression
 
nooo i didnt i rebuilt my engine with forged crap you know, je forged pistons 8.6:1, crane cams, eagle rods, and crane springs. my stock fuel system limits me from going more boost.
 
One of the first things you should do is upgrade to at least a fmu and 255lph fuel pump. Why would you spend all that money on forged parts and rebuilding the entire engine just to blow it up?
 
You still should be running no boost.
All 420a's have a fpr, all cars in general have a fpr.
You need a rising rate regulator (fmu), so you can be getting more fuel for the added air.
 
so did u turbo it first instead of rebuilding?....thats what i understood

Yea, I did turbo before re-building. Only ran 6lbs of boost with FMU and Wally 255lph, and aftermarket FPR. I'm getting bigger injectors too with my re-build. I've got Eagle Rods and Wiseco 8.8:1 forged pistons.

Slowly, but surely my baby will be done :D

**Oh yea, and a new underdrive pulley as well.**
 
Well, I like the idea that you are using JE's. I don't like the idea of total seals and Howell though. I've personally seen two failures on those and have heard of many more. Don't trust them (the rings not Howell)). And you can use the search for Howell. I have talked with Gary a couple of times and they have not been all that positive of experiences. Not that bad of a guy, but if it doesn't interest him, he's not interested.

Check Moderperformance or partsdinosaur for your fill of parts. The stock rods will work for the power that you are talking about BUT you may want the Eagles in case you are looking to move up in power (which most are want to do ;)).

Do keep in mind that there is machine work money that needs to be set aside. Please be sure to check the deck of both head and block at machine shop.

That brings you to the HG. Honestly the Fel pro MLS is just fine as long as you have flat surfaces.

MB
 
Well, I like the idea that you are using JE's. I don't like the idea of total seals and Howell though. I've personally seen two failures on those and have heard of many more. Don't trust them (the rings not Howell)). And you can use the search for Howell. I have talked with Gary a couple of times and they have not been all that positive of experiences. Not that bad of a guy, but if it doesn't interest him, he's not interested.

Check Moderperformance or partsdinosaur for your fill of parts. The stock rods will work for the power that you are talking about BUT you may want the Eagles in case you are looking to move up in power (which most are want to do ;)).

Do keep in mind that there is machine work money that needs to be set aside. Please be sure to check the deck of both head and block at machine shop.

That brings you to the HG. Honestly the Fel pro MLS is just fine as long as you have flat surfaces.

MB






you talking about this then Modern Performance Racing Products and throw in this Cometic Head Gasket Eclipse/Talon 420a - Gaskets & Seals - Engine - 95-99 Eclipse Non Turbo 420a - Mitsubishi - CI Motorsports
 
The bottom end kit looks good. The head gasket you may want to search a little about them. They can be a little slow on things from what I have read but being a gasket...Im not sure. Partsdinosaur.com has a head gasket kit though of which I am sure you can use.
 
The bottom end kit looks good. The head gasket you may want to search a little about them. They can be a little slow on things from what I have read but being a gasket...Im not sure. Partsdinosaur.com has a head gasket kit though of which I am sure you can use.

x2

Hell, I didn't even know the had a kit, LOL

MB
 
The bottom end kit looks good. The head gasket you may want to search a little about them. They can be a little slow on things from what I have read but being a gasket...Im not sure. Partsdinosaur.com has a head gasket kit though of which I am sure you can use.





will that headgasket withstand 12 psi?:dsm::talon: i rather get a cometic
 
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