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Resolved 2G Weird no start issue

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RadDsm

15+ Year Contributor
1,679
24
Apr 28, 2008
Eugene, Oregon
After 1.5 years and a complete rebuild, the car won't start. I'd appreciate any help I can get.

It just cranks and cranks and cranks, but won't fire up. It floods the motor and fouls the plugs every time.

All sensors are hooked up
Coil pack is good, injectors pulse
Ignition fuse is good
ECU is good
Timing is dead on
NGK BPR6ES at .028
Alternator/battery is good
CAS is not 180 out
At this time the car is on the stock ECU/MAS.

The fuel pressure is 50psi when cranking and the injectors are at 2.5 ohms.

Please let me know if there are any other details you'd like to know.

Here is a video if it helps at all.
YouTube - First start attempt #1
 
Solution
It turned out to be the coolant temp sensor.

The one I got from NAPA was measuring almost 7000 ohms of resistance when cold, when it should be about 2500. Got one from the stealership and the car fired right up.

Thanks to everyone for the help. :thumb:
How many cc are your injectors. Cause if they are to big the car will typically flood unless block was built to match . Or if timing is off enough you can end up with a no start

They are the stock 450cc injectors and the timing is 100% dead on.

This thing is boggling my brain. It's getting air, fuel, and spark, but it wont fire up.
 
well are you 100% sure you have spark at the plugs? not to be nit-picky but i didn't see anything there about testing spark at the cylinder... im not one to assume anything so im just asking.
 
well are you 100% sure you have spark at the plugs? not to be nit-picky but i didn't see anything there about testing spark at the cylinder... im not one to assume anything so im just asking.

Yea, we pulled each wire and plug one by one, grounded them, and each one went off just like it should.
 
what kind of compression do you have? granted that wouldn't kill all the cylinders it might cause an issue, no oil in the antifreeze or vice versa right?
 
50psi fuel pressure is a little high, your probably flooding it out so bad it won't start.

How many cc are your injectors. Cause if they are to big the car will typically flood unless block was built to match . Or if timing is off enough you can end up with a no start

I hope the person that told you that isn't your tuner. Building an engine(let alone a block) has nothing to do with injector size selection.
 
50 yep should be 43 psi for fuel, coolant temp sensor, is a no start cultprit who built the engine check compression timing could be a issue you never know, my car ran well one day no start timing dead on, a few valves nicked no start.
 
what kind of compression do you have? granted that wouldn't kill all the cylinders it might cause an issue, no oil in the antifreeze or vice versa right?
Haven't done a compression check yet, I guess that will be the next thing to do.
No mixing fluids though.

50psi fuel pressure is a little high, your probably flooding it out so bad it won't start.
Even 50psi while it's cranking is too much? It's on the stock FPR right now.

50 yep should be 43 psi for fuel, coolant temp sensor, is a no start cultprit who built the engine check compression timing could be a issue you never know, my car ran well one day no start timing dead on, a few valves nicked no start.

It's a brand new coolant temp sensor, I guess I can try another one.
The timing is still dead on.

Compression will be the first thing checked tomorrow.

Keep the ideas coming, I really appreciate it.
 
The stock FPR shouldn't let anything over the factory set fuel pressure. 50 is too high.

You have ecmlink right? Isn't there a parameter for those running higher fuel pressure?

Fuel pressure with the vacuum hose disconnected for a 2G is 43.6psi
 
Since your fouling the plugs please check the Engine Coolant Temp sensor. Log it in the ECU and make sure it's reading about the same as the air temp on a cold engine or something reasonable on a hot engine. When the sensor fails or the wires break the ECU thinks it's freezing outside and floods the engine.
 
your cas might be dead

I've tried two of them, neither changed anything.

Since your fouling the plugs please check the Engine Coolant Temp sensor. Log it in the ECU and make sure it's reading about the same as the air temp on a cold engine or something reasonable on a hot engine. When the sensor fails or the wires break the ECU thinks it's freezing outside and floods the engine.

I'll check the coolant temp sensor as well, that would be nice if it was the culprit.
 
with all do respect injectors size can have just as much to do with it as the pressure . if the injectors were to big they can flood a.system the same way to much pressure dose by allowing to much fuel to pass thru but in this case that isn't the iss
 
with all do respect injectors size can have just as much to do with it as the pressure . if the injectors were to big they can flood a.system the same way to much pressure dose by allowing to much fuel to pass thru but in this case that isn't the iss

yeah if the ecu isnt corrected for the larger injectors. either way if theres good compression, good fuel and good spark it should atleast fire if not start unless the timing is off or firing order is not correct. on another note the same thing happened to me after my build and i forgot to plug in the coolant sensor. :ohdamn:
 
with all do respect injectors size can have just as much to do with it as the pressure . if the injectors were to big they can flood a.system the same way to much pressure dose by allowing to much fuel to pass thru but in this case that isn't the iss

Agreed, but that's not what your last statement was getting at entirely, nor what I was talking about.

How many cc are your injectors. Cause if they are to big the car will typically flood unless block was built to match

Sorry, I'm nit-picky about misinformation. :p

Most of the time big injectors without being compensated for won't run properly because the injector pulse width & latency (measured in milli-seconds) is incorrect.
This(latency) is the actual amount of time the injectors take to open and close from the time it's energized to de-energized.
Pulse width is how long it stays open.
Duty cycle is the percentage of on&off in a given time period.
 
I appreciate some one else understanding were I was coming from on that and I apologize for being so blunt about it. I will try to be a lil more specific and detailed about what I say next time.

But the reason I knew this is because I put 750cc 's in mine when I did the fuel system but internals yet just the Neo and turbo angle FPR thinking I could maybe tune it thru the regulator and de tune it with the Neo but still to much for my engine at that time.
 
Are you sure that the firing order is correct on a 2g the firing order is 4, 1, 2, 3 from left to right on the coilpacks. Just a thought.
 
with all do respect injectors size can have just as much to do with it as the pressure . if the injectors were to big they can flood a.system the same way to much pressure dose by allowing to much fuel to pass thru but in this case that isn't the iss

Please just stop or post in a more complete fashion. Reading your posts makes my head hurt.
:banghead:

OP - Check that coolant temp sensor as stated before.
 
Yes please make sure your firing order is correct. If compression is good, and you have spark and fuel it should be starting. There are lots of mechanical things that would keep it from starting but after compression test, that will be the key factor.
 
It turned out to be the coolant temp sensor.

The one I got from NAPA was measuring almost 7000 ohms of resistance when cold, when it should be about 2500. Got one from the stealership and the car fired right up.

Thanks to everyone for the help. :thumb:
 
Solution
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